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Modern MTB gears with up to twelve sprockets on the cassette are sensitive. The small distance between the individual sprockets and the wide range of 10 to 50 teeth - or even more, as with some aftermarket cassettes - requires precise adjustment. Otherwise you won't have any fun on the bike, because the shifting commands from the lever are not implemented, the chain jumps between the sprockets or rattles loudly through the derailleur pulleys. If the derailleur hanger is properly aligned and the shift cable slips through the Bowden cable between the rear derailleur and the shift lever, then there is only three things must be observed in order to set the circuit correctly:
- the tensile stress
- the distance between the rear derailleur and the cassette
- the stops/limiting screws of the rear derailleur
These three things can be adjusted quickly with just a few tools and the necessary experience. If you know how to do it, you can even fix annoying chain rattling on the trail.
Adjusting the Sram Eagle gears: the video guide
The most important points of a Sram Eagle drivetrain
The wrap screw (1), the lower stop screw (2) and the upper stop screw (3): These three screws are crucial when adjusting a Sram rear derailleur. You need a 3 mm Allen key for this.
The Wrap-around screw (1) ensures the correct distance between the Eagle rear derailleur and the cassette. It is also known as the B-screw or "B-washer". It presses indirectly against a nose of the derailleur hanger. If you turn it to the right, the upper derailleur pulley moves away from the cassette. For the perfect adjustment, Sram offers an Eagle adjustment gauge.
The Sram adjustment gauge helps to position the Eagle rear derailleur at the correct distance from the cassette. The chain gap tool from Sram costs around five euros.
For the new Eagle cassettes with 520 % bandwidth, Sram has also a new chain gap tool that replaces the previous red chain gap tools. The biggest difference to the previous tool is that the white template is used for the first time to adjust the distance from the upper derailleur pulley to the cassette with the chain in second gear, not first gear as before.
Video instructions: How to adjust the distance from the upper derailleur pulley to the cassette with the new white chain gap tool from Sram.
The Lower stop screw (2) limits the pivoting range of the Eagle rear derailleur to the outside. The chain should be on the 10 mm sprocket during adjustment. The stop screw is only responsible for ensuring that the chain does not fall between the frame and the sprocket.
The Upper stop screw (3) limits the swivelling range of the rear derailleur inwards. The chain should be on the 50 mm sprocket during adjustment. The screw ensures that the rear derailleur does not throw the chain too far upwards and it falls between the spokes and sprocket.
The upper limit stop must be adjusted so that the Eagle rear derailleur reliably lifts the chain onto the large 50 mm sprocket. But not too far, otherwise the chain will end up in the spokes.
The Tensile stress determines how smoothly the Eagle drivetrain shifts up or down from one gear to the next. It is adjusted without tools using the tensioning screw on the shift lever. If it is perfectly adjusted, the rear derailleur immediately implements every shifting command without jamming and the chain runs quietly over the sprockets.
The tension of the Eagle rear derailleur must be adjusted on the gear lever. If the chain does not jump to the next largest sprocket when changing gear, the tension must be increased. To do this, turn the adjusting wheel on the shift lever anti-clockwise.
