How easy it is to change Srams Direct Mount chainrings

Stefan Frey

 · 10.01.2018

How easy it is to change Srams Direct Mount chainringsPhoto: Georg Grieshaber
How easy it is to change Srams Direct Mount chainrings
A larger or smaller chainring allows you to adapt the single-speed transmission to your personal riding style. Sram's direct mount chainrings can be replaced in just a few steps.

Sram's direct mount chainrings are bolted directly to the crank using three Allen screws. For cranks with a removable spider (XX1, X01, X0, X1, X9, S-Series), DM chainrings can also be fitted as an option.

Offset Depending on the crank and bottom bracket combination or Boost standard, the chainrings have a different offset to compensate for the chainline. Zero, three or six millimetres - the table reveals the correct model.

bike/M4021927Photo: Hersteller
bike/M4021928Photo: Georg Grieshaber


1 Compatibility
Sram's direct mount chainrings are bolted directly to the crank using three Allen screws. For cranks with a removable spider (XX1, X01, X0, X1, X9, S-Series), DM chainrings can also be fitted as an option.


2 Offset
Depending on the crank and bottom bracket combination or Boost standard, the chainrings have a different offset to compensate for the chainline. Zero, three or six millimetres
The table above reveals the correct model.


3 Tooth mould
Caution: The teeth of the current Eagle groupsets have a special shape and are only compatible with the matching chains. Eleven-speed X-Sync chainrings can be used with standard chains.

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4 Grease
The axle sits on the bearing at the two smoothly milled areas. These contact points should always be well coated with grease during assembly. The crankshaft itself also needs a little grease.


5 Crank assembly
The left-hand crank arm is slid onto a ten-speed toothing and screwed on using an integrated puller. The 10-millimetre locking screw above it serves as a counterholder and should not be loosened under any circumstances.


This is how it works:

1 Dismantle the crank: With Sram, the left crank arm is bolted to the axle. Use an 8-millimetre Allen key to loosen the crank in an anti-clockwise direction. Initially, the screw will be difficult to loosen. The crank on the drive side can then be easily pulled out of the bottom bracket. A light tap with a soft-face mallet may help.
Photo: Georg Grieshaber


Chainring replacement

There are now several manufacturers who offer aftermarket chainrings with Sram's Narrow Wide tooth profile. However, the largest selection of sizes is offered by Sram itself and the British manufacturer Absolute Black.

  Sram X-Sync chainring: The American eleven-speed direct mount chainrings are now available with 26 / 28 / 30 / 32 / 34 / 36 / 38 and 40 teeth for 103 euros. Replacement chainrings for spider mounting are only available with 32 / 34 / 36 and 38 teeth.Photo: Georg Grieshaber Sram X-Sync chainring: The American eleven-speed direct mount chainrings are now available with 26 / 28 / 30 / 32 / 34 / 36 / 38 and 40 teeth for 103 euros. Replacement chainrings for spider mounting are only available with 32 / 34 / 36 and 38 teeth.  Oval Traction Chainrings: A smoother ride and better traction on the rear wheel - that's what Absolute Black promises with its oval chainrings. They are available from 26 to 48 teeth for direct mount cranks and with 30 to 34 teeth for cranks with spiders.Photo: Georg Grieshaber Oval Traction Chainrings: A smoother ride and better traction on the rear wheel - that's what Absolute Black promises with its oval chainrings. They are available from 26 to 48 teeth for direct mount cranks and with 30 to 34 teeth for cranks with spiders.


Workshop tips

  Crank with spider: Replacing the chainring is particularly easy on cranks with a spider. All you have to do is loosen the four chainring bolts using a 5 and 6 mm Allen key. The chainring can then be removed via the crank arm without dismantling the crank.Photo: Georg Grieshaber Crank with spider: Replacing the chainring is particularly easy on cranks with a spider. All you have to do is loosen the four chainring bolts using a 5 and 6 mm Allen key. The chainring can then be removed via the crank arm without dismantling the crank.  Replace the spider: The spider can be removed from many Sram crank models. This allows the crank to be converted to direct mount. Advantage: 26 mm and 28 mm chainrings can also be used. To remove the spider, the crank must be removed.Photo: Georg Grieshaber Replace the spider: The spider can be removed from many Sram crank models. This allows the crank to be converted to direct mount. Advantage: 26 mm and 28 mm chainrings can also be used. To remove the spider, the crank must be removed.  Crank bolt: For GXP cranks with a self-removing crank bolt, you should apply a drop of oil between the puller and the locking bolt from time to time. Otherwise the locking screw may come loose during disassembly and destroy the thread.Photo: Georg Grieshaber Crank bolt: For GXP cranks with a self-removing crank bolt, you should apply a drop of oil between the puller and the locking bolt from time to time. Otherwise the locking screw may come loose during disassembly and destroy the thread.


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Stefan Frey is from Lower Bavaria and loves the mossy, loamy trails of the Bavarian Forest as much as the rugged rock of the Dolomites. For technical descents, he is prepared to tackle almost any ascent - under his own steam. As an accessories specialist, he is the first port of call for questions about equipment and add-on parts, while as head of copywriting he sweeps the language crumbs from the pages of the BIKE print editions.

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