Stefan Frey
· 24.05.2015
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Internal gear cables give the bike a tidy look. However, the elegant look comes at a price: if the shift cable comes off or is worn, it can sometimes happen that your patience breaks when replacing it. Fiddling the cable through the inside of the frame to the exit requires skill and nerves of steel. This makes it all the more important to have the right strategy when replacing the shift cable.
It is high time for a new shift cable if dirt and wear increase friction and shifting is only possible with a lot of thumb force, or if the chain is reluctant to move downwards when changing to a smaller sprocket. The
The easiest way to replace the cables is to run them outside the frame. If you carelessly pull the old Bowden cable out of the frame when changing internally routed cables, you may spend hours trying to route the new one correctly through the frame again. The following instructions will help you avoid such workshop mishaps.
The steps described below for changing the internal cables are based on Continuous outer shells (A) tuned. On some bikes, however, the outer casing ends when the shift cable disappears into the frame and only begins again when it emerges.
With exposed trains (B) inside the frame you thread a so-called Liner as a replacement for the outer cover over the shift cable. The new shift cable can then be slid into the liner after the old one has been removed.
If you want to pull a new shift cable into the frame, little helpers can save a lot of time.
Magnet: If the cable does get lost in the frame, you can try to catch it with a magnet. A complete mounting set with liners is available from Parktool. Price: 85 Euro >> available here.
Liner: To change the shift cable, the liner is slid over the old cable and later used as a guide for the new cable. Available from Jagwire. Price: 3 euros.
Curved spoke: Sometimes home remedies help best. If the shift cable seems hopelessly lost in the down tube or the chain stay, it can be hooked back with a converted bent spoke.

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