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A drivetrain full of caked-on grease not only looks bad, but also damages its function: the oil-dirt mixture sucks fresh oil from the chain, prevents the derailleur pulleys from turning and grinds on the chain links. At some point, it's time to tackle the constantly postponed general cleaning of the drivetrain - and do it properly. One thing is clear: The occasional bicycle spray cleaner fails on the drivetrain, and even the old toothbrush can't get through the caked-on gunk between the sprockets. If you don't clean all the time, you need to use coarse tools and take precautions. When cleaning the drivetrain, nasty bits of dirt fly around. If they get stuck in the soles of your shoes, they make a mess of the whole flat. It therefore makes sense to cover the workshop floor generously with newspaper.
1. the chain
As long as the rear wheel is still in the frame, wipe the chain dry with a robust cloth. Turn the crank backwards and rub vigorously. A bath in solvent will only do harm. To achieve a final shine, you can drizzle petroleum, Ballistol or white spirit sparingly onto a cloth and run it through the side surfaces again. Then oil or wax.
Dominik Scherer: "The best tip against stuck chain dirt? Avoid it! That's why I don't use chain oil, but a wax-based lubricant. You might have to re-lubricate more often, but it saves you all the mess."
2. the circuit
Here, too, it is easier with the rear wheel mounted: First, with the chain running backwards, peel the grease off the derailleur pulleys with a tyre lever, carved chopsticks or a dentist's tool. Finish with a cloth or brush, using a sparing amount of solvent. The dentist's tool is best for removing stubborn dirt in the swingarm. Perfectionists dismantle the inner plate of the gear cage and the derailleur pulleys for cleaning (with the shift cable clamped). When reassembling, grease the sliding bushes of the derailleur pulleys - but be careful: the upper and lower pulleys are different and consist of various small parts.
Hans-Peter Ettenberger: "You can't get the dirt out without soaking. The usual soap-based bike cleaners don't work. I always spray the parts with Ballistol and wait a little before I use a cloth or brush. It's not as aggressive as white spirit."
3. sprockets and chainrings
The rear wheel must be removed for this. If the dirt is not yet completely caked on, a combination of rough cleaning with the dentist's tool and subsequent "dental floss" may be sufficient: These are long strips of cloth about a centimetre wide that are torn from a woven cloth and pulled through between the individual sprockets. Ballistol, petroleum, white spirit improve the result. A narrow paintbrush with coarse bristles brings the solvent to the target and takes some dirt with it. However, a sprocket set can be easily removed, dismantled and then cleaned down to the pores. An old soup plate is a great help when cleaning. Add a dash of white spirit (or the more skin-friendly Ballistol) and the bristle brush or an old toothbrush won't give the dirt a chance.
Some cranks, such as those from Shimano, can be pulled out of the bearing together with the shaft for chainring cleaning without special tools. It's worth the effort, because you can't get into every corner with the crankset and chain in place. The cleaning process itself is similar to that for the sprocket set.
None of this is fun - but a clean-running drive rewards the dirty work over every kilometre.
Christoph Allwang: "Before I use any solvents, I use a mechanical approach. My tip for this are dentist's tools. Especially the ones with the curved tips help to scrape the gunk out of inaccessible places.
MYBIKE tip: For environmental reasons, solvents must not be allowed to enter the sewage system. It is best to allow small quantities to evaporate. Absorbent cloths speed up the process.
>> More on the topic online: Test lubricant <<
