Jochen Donner
· 21.05.2021
If the bike has spent the winter in the cellar, a dry or slightly oily cloth is enough to get everything whirring smoothly again if the chain is relatively clean. Crank the chain backwards through the cloth several times until no more dirt adheres to it.
If the chain is very dirty, moisten the cleaning cloth with chain cleaner or petroleum ether. An old toothbrush is ideal for solid deposits and for cleaning the gaps. And of course a high quality oil with good adhesive and lubricating properties.
Use a plastic tyre lever to scrape coarse dirt from the surfaces of the chainrings. Then wipe the tooth area clean with chain cleaner and a cloth.
Also clean the sprocket set. If it is not very dirty, a tightly pulled, firm cloth is sufficient to rub out the gaps with the rear wheel removed. A toothed sprocket rake removes even solid deposits from the sprocket set.
Due to their exposed position and the pressure of the chain, they become particularly dirty. Use a plastic tyre lever to scrape off solid deposits.
It is best to hang the bike on an assembly stand so that it is stable and secure. Slowly crank the chain backwards under the oil bottle and add the oil drop by drop on the inside of the passing chain. This ensures that the lubricant seeps slowly into the gaps and does not drip off so easily. If possible, support the oil bottle or your hand so that the oil flow hits the chain efficiently. It is not possible to crank the chain backwards on e-bikes with a mid-motor.
After complete application, shift through all gears a few times so that the chain links start to move and the oil can spread well. Then allow the fresh lubrication to evaporate and soak in for at least an hour, preferably overnight. Many lubricants contain solvents to increase their creep properties. These volatile substances must volatilise so that the lubricant can adhere well.
Once the lubrication has been sufficiently absorbed, crank the chain through a clean, lint-free cloth several times. This will remove any remaining dirt and excess lubrication. The chain should be dry on the outside and no longer sticky so that new dirt cannot immediately adhere again.
A thin layer of spray wax on the newly lubricated chain, but also on the sprockets and rear derailleur, forms a dry, water-repellent layer. This keeps the lubricant in the gaps for longer, protects against dirt sticking again for a while and against corrosion caused by moisture. Then shift through all gears again to distribute the wax well and allow it to dry thoroughly. But be careful: Cover the brake discs - and the rims in the case of rim brakes - beforehand to protect them from the spray mist. Otherwise you will have to clean the wax off the braking surfaces.