Cleaning and changing the MTB chain: How to change the chain easily!

Clean your MTB chain properly and change it easily - we'll show you how to do it so that you don't have any problems with your chain on your next MTB tour and everything runs like clockwork:

You will need these tools to clean the chain: Tyre lever, Pinion brush, two clean, lint-free cloths, Small brush or toothbrush, Bucket of washing-up liquid, Lubricant.

Step 1 - Clean the chain: The best way to tackle coarse dirt is with a small brush and a good load of washing-up liquid. An old toothbrush can be put to good use here.

Step 2 - Clean the chain: Then place a damp cloth around the chain and remove the remaining dirt by turning the crank backwards. Then leave the chain to dry.

Step 3 - Clean the drive: Also remove coarse dirt from the sprockets and chainrings. Use a special sprocket brush to get into the narrow gaps. Yes, a few of them already have some rust on them...

Step 4 - Clean the drive: If you like it particularly clean, you can moisten a cloth with washing-up liquid. This will also remove the last traces of oil and dirt from the gaps.

Step 6 - Lubricate the chain: Be sparing when lubricating the chain - for environmental reasons alone. Nevertheless, drizzle a little lubricant onto each individual joint. This works best on the inside of the drivetrain. Leave the oil to soak in for a while (preferably overnight) and then wipe the chain with a clean, lint-free cloth so that there is no excess oil left. This keeps legs and nature clean.

Changing the MTB chain - how to do it with Shimano, Sram & Co.

If all the care, oil and love no longer helps, you need to replace the MTB chain. This is particularly the case if rust has taken its toll or thousands of kilometres on the trails have stretched the chain links and the wear is too advanced.

You will need these tools:

1 Chain oil: Use it sparingly. An oil-soaked chain virtually attracts dirt.

2 Chain wear gauge: Check: If the long nose of the gauge gets stuck between the chain links, you can continue to ride the chain.

3 Chain riveters: Current chain rivet models are suitable for chains of all drive systems from 8-speed to 12-speed.

4 Clamp/Spoke: Helps to take the tension out of the chain in order to connect the chain links after changing.

5 Chain lock pliers: Universal tool for all chains. This allows chain locks to be opened and relocked quickly and easily.

6 Drive cleaner: Clean all drive parts thoroughly before fitting. This protects the chain as well as the sprocket set and chainring.

To replace the chain

1 Measure wear

A wear gauge (standardised for all bicycle chains) can be used to determine whether the chain needs to be replaced. If the pin between the chain links falls through completely (photo), it is time for a new chain. Check the chain wear regularly. Because a defective chain also ruins the cassette - which is more expensive than a new chain. Here we show you, what you should bear in mind.

2 Open chain lock

Before replacing the chain, clean the cassette properly so that the dirt does not immediately stick to the new chain. Now open the chain. Some models with a chain lock can be opened by hand. It is easier with chain lock pliers. ATTENTION: Once you have opened the lock, you should no longer use it - you will need a new one.

TIPS: Opening the Sram chain lock: 9-speed locks can be opened by hand: Press the tabs together with two fingers and push the tabs towards each other with the other hand.

For 10, 11 or 12-speed locks from Sram, you will need a pipe wrench or special chain lock pliers (e.g. from BBB). Once opened, the lock can no longer be used.

3 Opening with chain riveter

Chains without a chain lock are traditionally opened with a chain tool. Place the chain tool exactly in the centre of a rivet pin and push the pin completely out of the link plate. Then thread the chain out of the derailleur. Memorise the course of the chain well. This will make it easier to thread the chain later.

4 Determine chain length

Place the old and new chain next to each other and count the chain links to determine the correct chain length. Alternative: Place the chain on the large sprocket and large chainring. The chain should then overlap by two inner and two outer links. The correct length of the chain is important for proper functioning. If the chain is clearly too long, the chain tensioner on the rear derailleur cannot compensate for the low tension. The chain slaps and wear increases. If the chain is too short, there is a risk that the rear derailleur will be damaged and shifting to the largest sprocket may not be possible.

5 Threading the new chain

Guide the chain strand around the crank at the front (also through the front derailleur for double systems) and through the rear derailleur. Pay close attention to the correct routing and note the bar on the derailleur cage. Also consider the running direction of the chain. With Shimano chains, the lettering must point outwards.

6 Tension off: Relieve the chain

Remove tension before closing the chain. You can use a piece of a bent spoke as a clamp. Or you can simply remove the chain from the chainring and place it on the smallest sprocket.

7 Locking the chain with a chain lock

To lock the chain, place it on the sprocket, position the chain lock over the chain stay and press on the crank with the brake applied until the lock engages.

8 Locking with chain riveters

Use the chain riveter to push a new rivet pin through the chain link plates until it engages. The rivet pin must be matched to the drive system (9-, 10-, 11-, 12-speed).

9 Break off overhang

Break off the protruding part of the rivet pin with pliers. Be careful not to bend the chain links in the process. If a chain link is stiff after assembly, loosen it by applying slight lateral pressure.

TIP: The manufacturers recommend maintenance intervals of around 100 kilometres for off-road use. After riding in bad weather, however, you should always wipe the chain with a lint-free cloth and then apply a thin film of chain oil when dry. The chain will last longer if you change its direction of rotation, i.e. turn the bottom side to the top side. This causes the links to bend in the other direction. However, the outer plates still point outwards.