Florentin Vesenbeckh
· 29.12.2025
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The rear derailleur is mainly responsible for gear changes. Whether Sram or Shimano, the design of classic derailleurs has been very similar for years. Only since the new Sram Eagle Transmission there are fundamental differences, especially in terms of adjustment and assembly. In this article, we will take a look at the setup for the classic version, which is also used for the latest Shimano derailleurs. Older Sram derailleurs (VOR T-Type/Transmission/Full-Mount) work according to the same basic pattern and the setup also follows the same logic.
Whether Shimano or Sram: classic derailleurs work according to the same principle. With the right tricks, the chain runs like clockwork. For a better understanding, we have described the adjustment screws and individual parts in detail further down in the article.
Extremely helpful when adjusting the gearstick: a Mounting stand. If necessary, you can hang the bike with the saddle on a bar. This allows you to turn the crank with your left hand and operate the gear lever with your right.
The correct distance between the rear derailleur and sprocket is a prerequisite for optimum gear shift function. This is set using the wrap screw near the derailleur hanger. The desired distance varies depending on the model. Check the operating instructions!
Sram has developed an extra gauge for adjusting the wrap. There is now only one version of this "Chaingap Tool" (white), which fits all Sram Eagle rear derailleurs (VOR Transmission / T-Type) (e.g. >> available here). With the chain on the second largest sprocket, the tool is placed on the largest sprocket and pushed towards the derailleur cage. The arrow should then land directly on the fixing screw of the upper derailleur pulley. Important: This adjustment must be made with the damper under load, i.e. in the SAG.
To set the outer limit stop correctly, it is important that the derailleur cable is completely slack. To do this, loosen the clamping screw on the rear derailleur. If you turn the upper (Shimano; H) or inner (Sram) stop screw to the right, the rear derailleur moves inwards. The perfect position is achieved when the upper derailleur pulley and the smallest sprocket are exactly aligned. Now clamp the shift cable again. When fixing the shift cable, the screw for the tension on the shift lever (see step 5) must be in a neutral position.
Start by shifting all the way up until the chain is on the largest sprocket. The largest sprocket and the derailleur pulleys should be exactly aligned. If the cage is too far to the right, the screw for the inner end stop must be loosened. If the gear lever is fully depressed when cranking, the chain must never fall over the sprocket into the spokes. If this is the case, screw in the lower (Shimano; L) or outer (Sram) end stop screw.
Now it's time to fine-tune the shifting operations. The adjustment screw on the shift lever regulates the tension of the shift cable. It is responsible for ensuring that the chain climbs smoothly from one sprocket to the next when shifting gears. To increase the tension, turn the adjusting wheel outwards, i.e. in the direction of travel. When looking from the rear to the left, the cage moves towards the larger sprocket. If the chain skips a sprocket when you shift into an easier gear, the tension is too high. In this case, tighten the screw. This causes the cage to move to the right. Adjust until everything runs smoothly.
Is the rear derailleur still not working despite correct adjustment? This may be due to a bent derailleur hanger. Worn chains or sprockets and dirty or worn derailleur cables also impair the shifting function.
The same pattern for fine adjustment also applies to electronic wireless shifting. The big difference is that the rear derailleur is moved electronically by a motor instead of by the tension of the shift cable. The impulse comes wirelessly via the push button on the handlebars. The gears are fine-tuned either via the app or a button combination on the lever - this applies to Shimano's DI2 as well as Sram's AXS shifters. Helpful: The position of the fine adjustment is displayed in the app.
With wireless shifting, the movements are lightning fast and without friction-prone cables that require maintenance. However, the battery and battery on the rear derailleur and shifter must be monitored. No power, no gear change.
The rear derailleur is fixed to the frame with the large Allen screw at the top via a replaceable derailleur hanger.
The distance between the rear derailleur and cassette can be adjusted using the wrap screw (hidden in the picture). It is located on the rear of the rear derailleur near the derailleur hanger mount. Correct adjustment is essential for clean shifting performance.
The rear derailleur end stops limit the movement inwards and outwards and thus prevent the chain from flying off the sprockets. There are two screws: one for the inner stop towards the spokes and one for the outer stop towards the dropout.
A bushing guides the outer casing of the shift cable into the correct position for the rear derailleur. The Bowden cable must be inserted correctly before it is fixed in place with an Allen screw under the clamping plates provided.
The arms of the rear derailleur are connected to springs that pull the rear derailleur to the right. They ensure gear changes to smaller sprockets. The derailleur cable pulls against the spring and lifts the chain onto larger sprockets.
The derailleur cage is responsible for guiding the chain over the sprockets. The pretensioned cage also equalises the tension of the chain when the size of the sprockets changes during shifting.
The two derailleur pulleys are responsible for guiding the chain in the derailleur cage. Due to their exposed position, dirt often collects on them. Clean them regularly! Derailleur pulleys are replaceable.
The impulse to change gear is transmitted to the Bowden cable via the gear lever. Tensioning the cable: lighter gear, slackening the cable: heavier gear.
The tension adjustment screw can be used to fine-tune the climbing behaviour of the chain on the cassette sprockets. If you turn the adjusting wheel outwards (in the direction of travel), the tension increases and the cage moves to the left. To reduce the tension, turn it inwards (against the direction of travel) and the cage moves to the right. When fixing the shift cable, the screw should be in a neutral position so that there is room for adjustment in both directions.

Editor CvD