Wiebke Lühmann on her way to Cape TownAcross the Sahara in a month

Sandra Schuberth

 · 20.03.2024

The road to Cape Town takes Wiebke Lühmann through the Sahara
Photo: Julien Soleil @sun_is_cycling
In October 2023, Wiebke Lühmann set off on the biggest journey of her life - so far. Her journey will take her to Cape Town by bike. Over the past few weeks, she has travelled across the Sahara. What is it like travelling through the world's largest arid desert by bike?

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Wiebke Lühmann set off from Freiburg at the beginning of October. She then travelled to France, Spain, Portugal, Spain again and then by ferry to Morocco, Africa and further and further south. In other words: kilometre by kilometre, she travelled and continues to travel into a new unknown. Full of curiosity and respect and with a huge dose of optimism and even more courage, Wiebke embarks on her journey. "I'm most afraid of feeling lonely," she says in the trailer for the film that is to be made during and after her journey: "Road to Cape Town".

What has happened so far

Lots of new and unknown things

While the European countries were still quite familiar, the African continent brings with it a lot of unknowns, a lot of new things in all sorts of ways. You have to learn and adapt. What is the best way to behave, what food is available, ...

For the first two weeks in Morocco, the first days in 2024, Wiebke travelled with Robbie, a cycle traveller from the UK who has been exploring the world by bike for five years. The two met on the ferry to Morocco. Shortly before Marrakech, just before the Atlas Mountains, they part ways. Wiebke is visited by her best friend, photographer and videographer Fabienne Engel. Fabienne has already made the film On her own about Wiebke's journey to the North Cape. From Marrakech she travelled over the Atlas Mountains to Agadir. From here she continues on her own. Before heading into the Sahara, Wiebke takes a break, which is packed full of work - and a full-blown cold. That's also part of it: What is it like to be ill in a foreign country where so much is unfamiliar? Wiebke says: "Being sick on the road is never nice. Above all, it's no fun travelling on and my motivation is blown away. If I'm ill or realise that I'm going to be ill, I look for cosy, clean accommodation. Then it works. Only when I regain my strength and enjoyment do I continue."

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From illness, it was back to work. The teaser for the planned film about Wiebke Lühmann's trip to Cape Town was created.

How do you like this article?

Wiebke inspires you with her positive, open and benevolent manner to set off, to try things out and to dare. Of course, it doesn't have to be a cycle tour through Africa, but perhaps the first weekend tour of your life?

Off to the desert

Then the time has come. The desert is waiting. And it greets Wiebke with what it does best - headwinds and sand. Wiebke fights her way forward metre by metre at 10 kilometres per hour. Quite exhausting after the illness and the break and at the end of the cycle. The daily target of kilometres was not achieved, but a few days later she scrubbed off 190 kilometres. You have to do that with more than 35 kilos of luggage. The wind, this time mainly from behind, was mercifully supportive.

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A day in the Sahara

After a few days, Wiebke has got used to driving in the desert. Wind from the left, right, front or back is her constant companion. On the way, she meets other cyclists again and again. Some of them already know each other, others are new encounters.

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The next border, the next country

After around 2.5 weeks in Western Sahara/Morocco, Wiebke reaches the border with Mauritania. Together with a few other cyclists, she waits until the lunch break is over and they can leave Morocco and enter Mauritania five kilometres later. Everything goes smoothly.

A lot changes after the border. The people, the food, the houses. Wiebke hadn't expected such a big change and is glad to be in the company of other cyclists for a few more days.

Wiebke Lühmann spent almost a month travelling in the Sahara. She soon accepted the sand, which after a short time is simply everywhere. She is now in Gambia, the smallest country on the African mainland.

Interview with Wiebke Lühmann: Surprise and challenge

BIKE: How did you prepare for the desert?

Wiebke Lühmann: I read a lot about it, asked other travellers and bought a small gas cooker and 5 instant noodle soups. Then it was just a case of "close your eyes and go". Thanks to the iOverlander app, it was really easy to see where the nearest petrol station or shop was. So I knew that I didn't have to plan every stage of the day in advance. I gradually increased the distances and got further each day.

What surprised you?

How good the roads are. And how beautiful and peaceful the small towns in the Sahara are. In Mauritania, I was surprised at how much changes after crossing the border: the food, the people, even some of the languages, the more visible poverty, less tourism. Now in Senegal, everything is different again.

What was the biggest challenge?

Headwind. Most of the time the wind was good to me - but when there was a headwind, I felt like a lorry weighing a tonne.

What are your thoughts on the next sections?

The route from Europe to Senegal is great. And safe too. February is the perfect time and it was probably the coolest section of my route so far. Many cyclists are now turning back here in Dakar, Senegal, or flying home. What comes next will be completely new again and I am very excited to see what awaits me and how many other cycle travellers I will meet further south.

Sandra Schuberth, sometimes an after-work ride, sometimes a training ride, sometimes an unsupported bikepacking challenge. The main thing is her and her gravel bike - away from the traffic. Seven Serpents, Badlands or Bright Midnight: she has finished challenging bikepacking races. Gravel and bikepacking are her favourite subjects, and her demands on equipment are high. What she rides, uses and recommends has to stand the test of time: not in marketing, but in real life.

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