Bhutan - many myths surround the small kingdom in the Himalayas. Flanked by the superpowers India and China, its inhabitants are considered to be particularly happy, as Bhutan's government prioritises gross national happiness over gross national product. Most tourists come to the country to visit the famous Taktsang Monastery. It sits enthroned on a rock face at an altitude of over 3,000 metres. This is where a guru is said to have landed on the back of a tigress in the 8th century. And then you come across a conspicuous number of phallic symbols throughout the country, because the penis symbolises fertility and good luck.
I know all this because I have already been to Bhutan four times. The visa for my first trip was number 20244 in October 2007, which means that the kingdom was visited by about as many tourists in a year as Disneyland in one morning. Television and the internet had only been introduced eight years earlier. The king of Bhutan at the time had done a lot to keep Western influences away from his people.
I was all the more surprised when my friend Tom Öhler called and told me about a completely different myth: "The Prince of Bhutan is supposed to be a mountain biker himself and even build trails. Why don't we check it out?" An excellent reason for a fifth visit, I thought. Because on my last trip in 2010, I hadn't been able to discover any bike trails. I can't even remember seeing any cyclists at all.
Now, 14 years later, I have to rub my eyes: Tom had already made contact with the local bike scene in the capital Thimphu in advance via Instagram - and tracked down Tandin straight away. The young Bhutanese is not only a top rider in the Central Asian enduro racing scene, he has already explored the whole country as a guide with biking guests. Our "Royal Trails" mission is therefore in the best of hands.
First on the agenda are the trails around Thimphu. Tandin and his buddies shred here almost every day. The scene is small but passionate. Tom and I marvel at the well-preserved trails, which were the only connections between the villages and monasteries for centuries. Today, they serve as tourist trekking routes - and now also as trails for mountain bikers.
Tandin guides us up a mountain ridge, where we soon have to push. Firstly because the crosswind almost blows us down the slope, but mainly because of the altitude. The trail entrance to Tandin's home circuit is at over 3000 metres. The view of the capital, where a fifth of all 800,000 Bhutanese live, is correspondingly magnificent.
And then the descent: the dusty path winds its way under a network of prayer flags. We pass a temple and one of the largest seated Buddha statues in the world. We reach the urban skate park again just before sunset. What an introductory lap!
We experience little off-road traffic in the first few days. The country has not yet fully recovered from corona in terms of tourism either. "Just wait until I show you my favourite trail tomorrow," grins Tandin. "We won't meet any more people there."
Early the next morning, we board a shuttle bus and head up the Dochu-La Pass. But shortly before the highest point, our driver turns off into a dense mountain forest, where we soon hear a strangely loud whirring noise. In the middle of nowhere.
This is top secret, guys. Our state is running a Bitcoin farm here, Tandin whispers. Photography is strictly forbidden!
A few simple buildings flash through the trees, the humming is clearly coming from there. A quick internet search confirms Tandin's statement. It's probably not quite so secret anymore, but nobody wants to talk to us openly about the Bhutanese crypto industry.
Never mind, we are looking for trails, not an investment. And just half an hour's drive later, the contrast to the world of Bitcoin couldn't be greater: We reach an ancient monastery and are surrounded by interested monks as we unload our bikes. We are allowed to visit their monastery and, with the blessing of their head, we finally set off on the ascent to the Madman Trail. Riding and pushing, we work our way up the forest slope on a loamy path. Hours later, at an altitude of 3500 metres, we pass another sanctuary, this time an abandoned one. Wisps of mist swirl around the old monastery walls. Not a soul in sight. Mystical.
Pride of the locals: the Madman Trail
"The Madman Trail starts up ahead: get ready for 2,000 metres down through all the vegetation zones," Tandin is visibly proud, as he has just discovered this trail with his bike club and made it suitable for riding. Tom wants to know where the name "Madman Trail" comes from, but Tandin just grins: "I'll explain that later!" With that, he pedals off, uses the first roots as a ramp and flies towards the Dochu-La Pass. Root carpets and grippy forest floor alternate cheerfully, dishevelled prayer flags in the trees, a jump here, a switchback there - we would never have expected such a perfect enduro trail.
After a quick refreshment at the café on Dochu-La, we continue in a similar style. The only difference is that the trail is now flanked by rhododendron bushes and the temperatures are noticeably higher.
At some point, we reach a small village and rush into a car park full of tourist buses. A group of giggling Asian girls are taking photos in front of a house. Now, says Tandin, it's time to tell us the story of the Madman: 500 years ago, a holy monk is said to have defeated a demon here with his best part. Since then, phallic symbols have been painted on buildings or placed as carvings at door entrances. This is supposed to drive away evil spirits, but in any case it attracts tourists. We also cruise through the streets, surrounded by penises in all shapes, colours and facets.
The finale: the Prinzen Trail
At the end of the two weeks, Tandin also shows us the "Prinzen Trail". But only because we insist. The shuttle bus takes us into the Punakha Valley and about 1000 metres up the mountain flanks until the driver stops in the middle of a building site. "Accommodation is being built here for an Asian Enduro Series race that will be held in two years' time," explains Tandin.
And right in front of the construction site starts the trail that the Prince of Bhutan once had a military unit dig into the mountain. However, it must have been quite a while ago, because the path is so weathered and wildly overgrown in places. It just doesn't want to be fun to ride. "Come back in two years," says Tandin resolutely. "By then, we'll have got the royal trail back in shape!"
What you need to know about Bhutan
The country
We don't know whether Bhutan really is the happiest country in the world, as it is always rumoured to be. The fact is that the small kingdom in the middle of the Himalayas, between India and China, is the only country in the world with climate neutrality. This is mainly due to the fact that the government here is not focussing on economic growth, but on nature conservation and the happiness of the population. Nevertheless, the number of young emigrants (to Australia and Canada) has increased massively since coronavirus. In terms of land area, the country is about the size of Switzerland, 80 per cent of which is above 2000 metres above sea level. The highest peak is the 7570 metre high Gangkhar Puensum, which has never been climbed by a human being. Trekking tours have long been offered in Bhutan. The fact that these routes are now also being used by mountain bikers is relatively new.
Entry
The country has not yet fully recovered from Corona in terms of tourism. However, this is also due to the entry requirements, which are intended to prevent mass and cheap tourism (such as in neighbouring Nepal). In addition to a visa requirement and an entry fee of currently USD 40, tourists have to pay a sustainability fee of USD 100 per person per day (before Corona it was USD 200). Individual travel is also not possible. When applying for a visa, you must show proof of booking a guide and driver through a local agency. There are direct flights to Paro International Airport from Bangkok, Delhi, Kathmandu and Singapore.
The myth of the Prinzen Trail
Our MTB guide Tandin confirmed to us that the "Prince Trail" in the Punakha Valley was actually once shovelled by a military unit - on behalf of the prince, who himself liked to ride his mountain bike. However, that was probably almost 20 years ago. Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck is now 44 and succeeded his father to the throne in 2006. The trail in question is correspondingly weathered, but Tandin had promised that he would have the trail refurbished by the Asia Enduro Series race in two years' time. And who knows, maybe the now 8-year-old prince's son will help with that?
Best time to travel
The best time to travel to Bhutan is in spring (March to May) or autumn (September to November). During these months, the weather is mild and clear, ideal for trail tours and cultural discoveries.
Language
The official language of Bhutan is Dzongkha. However, English is taught in schools and is therefore widely spoken.
Book a bike holiday
BTS offers customised mountain bike tours (2-4 people). bhutantravel.com.bt
There are also MTB organisers in Europe who offer an all-inclusive trip to Bhutan. E.G. adventuretravel.ch
