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‘A rucksack needs a bit of character,’ Grandad always used to say. If you wash it, you’re flushing all the adventures you’ve had down the drain. Right, but at some point, you don’t just see the adventures on your trusty companion – you can smell them too. To all those who agree with Grandad and would rather not wash it, let me tell you: UV rays reliably kill sweat-causing bacteria and their odours!
That’s why, when taking a break, it’s best to turn the sweaty back of your rucksack towards the blazing sun. This also works for helmet padding, shoes, gloves and cycling jerseys. What definitely doesn’t help, however – as bacteria experts confirm – is the fridge or freezer. As soon as the frozen fabrics return to body temperature, the bacteria start multiplying again!
Just pop it in the washing machine?
Washing temperatures of 60 degrees or higher also kill the bacteria, but the problem is that this often expensive technical clothing can only be washed at 30 to 40 degrees. This means that although the laundry looks clean, it will soon start to smell again because the bacteria in the fabric continue to multiply unchecked.
That’s why we asked a number of manufacturers for alternatives: what’s the most effective way to clean your kit – from helmet to shoes – without damaging the material? Here are the experts’ washing instructions:
Helmet: Simply wipe any dirt off the outer shell with a damp cloth. Salt deposits on the straps can be washed off under the tap using a mild soap (such as shampoo). Things get a bit trickier with the inner padding. To prevent it from developing an unpleasant odour prematurely, never put your gloves inside the helmet or leave the helmet in a bag for days on end (a breeding ground for bacteria!). If the padding is attached with Velcro, you can remove it and wash it with shampoo. There are also care foams available specifically for helmet inner padding. For example, from Muc-Off, Dr Wack and Motorex.
Glasses: Rinse off any coarse dirt under the tap (ideally at a water temperature of 37 degrees). For greasy deposits, you can use a little washing-up liquid. Then polish dry with a microfibre cloth. Do not use a jersey or kitchen roll, as these are too rough and may scratch the glasses!
Gloves: Please follow the manufacturer’s care instructions, as the washing temperature depends on the proportion of gel padding and leather in the gloves. Generally speaking, however, cycling gloves can be machine-washed at 30 degrees, ideally in a laundry bag. Important: Do not wring them out and do not place them on a radiator!
Jerseys and shorts: Our laboratory tests have shown that clothing fabrics are already teeming with bacteria and chemicals straight from the factory. Trousers, jerseys, underwear and socks should therefore be washed before being worn for the first time. To prevent sweat-related bacteria from becoming embedded for as long as possible, here are two important tips: 1. Always dry your clothes thoroughly after use. Ideally in the sun (UV light). 2. Wash at 40 degrees using an enzyme-based detergent. Fabrics without elastane can also be washed at 60 degrees.
Shoes: Can the sole and seams withstand a machine wash? As long as they don’t contain any leather, you can put shoes in a laundry bag and wash them on a gentle cycle. However, this will invalidate the manufacturer’s warranty. Over time, this can cause the adhesive between the upper and the sole to come loose. It’s therefore better to simply brush off any dirt from the outside and wipe them down with a damp sponge. If the shoes don’t have a Gore-Tex membrane, you can also rinse them out occasionally. Afterwards, stuff them with newspaper and leave them to dry upright at room temperature. Don’t place them on the radiator – the shoes could become hard and warp! Some people swear by putting their shoes in the dishwasher. Again, this will void the manufacturer’s warranty.
Rain jacket: Perhaps the trickiest issue of all. If you put your usually expensive jacket in the washing machine, the DWR treatment away. If, on the other hand, you don’t wash the jacket, dust and sweat will block the pores and the breathability will be lost. Manufacturers therefore recommend the following: if used intensively (but who rides in the rain all the time?!), you can put your rain jacket in the washing machine 5–6 times a year, making sure it isn’t too full. Close all zips and loosen any drawstrings to prevent the membrane from being scratched or damaged. Use liquid detergent and wash at a maximum of 30 degrees. No spin cycle, no fabric softener. Tumble dry (30 minutes, 60 degrees) or leave to air dry. Afterwards, use an iron (set to a low temperature) to refresh the waterproofing. If the rain no longer beads off, a waterproofing spray will help. Its effect is further enhanced by the tumble dryer and the iron.
Rucksack: The manufacturers say: No, don’t put it in the washing machine! Brushing it off, wiping it down and always letting it dry completely after use should be enough. When we asked: But what if the rucksack gets really dirty and smelly, and something sticky has leaked inside as well? What then?
In this case, you can, as a one-off, pop the rucksack in the washing machine. But then:
- Remove the rain cover and protectors beforehand
- Put the rucksack inside a pillowcase (to prevent the buckles from getting damaged)
- Set to a maximum of 30 degrees
- Do not spin
- After washing with Water-repellent spray treat
- A small (!) splash Silicone spray on the zips
Gitta Beimfohr
Editor