Cotton, polyester & merino: Why has polyester prevailed in cycling clothing?

Preferences differ when it comes to clothing. That's why it's difficult to give generalised advice on what to wear and what not to wear. So let's start by being completely neutral before it becomes subjective.

Polyester - the top dog in bike clothing

Polyester is a real all-rounder in bike clothing: as a jersey, the material really comes into its own because it quickly wicks sweat away from the body, hardly retains any moisture and therefore stays pleasantly dry - ideal for intensive rides and warm days.

It is also light, robust and easy to care for, even if it can develop odours more quickly in the heat than merino wool, for example. Polyester also works well for socks, mainly due to its durability and quick drying, but is usually blended with other fibres to improve comfort and fit; for long tours, merino scores here with better odour control and temperature regulation. Bottom line: Top for jerseys, solid for socks - but often the better choice when mixed.

Conclusion: Is light, lasts a long time but often stinks after just one wear

Merino & merino mix: the trendy & more expensive alternative

Merino and merino blended fabrics are regarded as a comfort-orientated alternative to synthetic fabrics in bike clothing: As a jersey, merino wool in particular impresses with its natural climate management - it warms in the cold, cools in the heat and remains comfortable on the skin even when damp, without feeling clammy.

A big plus point is the strong odour inhibition, which means that the jersey stays much fresher than polyester even after long tours or tours lasting several days. However, pure merino dries more slowly and is somewhat more sensitive to abrasion, which is why many manufacturers rely on merino blend fabrics that combine the softness and function of wool with the robustness of synthetic fibres. The bottom line: merino stands for maximum comfort and versatility, and when mixed it becomes more suitable for everyday use and more durable - especially when used for long periods and in changing conditions.

Conclusion: More expensive and not as robust, but keeps you warm and can be worn several times without stinking.

Cotton: The classic for everyday use and trail riding?

In modern bike clothing, cotton and cotton blends are more of an "everyday" material than a performance material: as a jersey, pure cotton feels pleasantly soft and natural on the skin, but absorbs sweat strongly and dries slowly. Many therefore say that this is precisely why it is unsuitable for sporty rides on the bike.

This is significantly improved in blended fabrics, for example with polyester or elastane: the material remains comfortable, retains its shape and dries faster, but still does not achieve the performance of synthetic bike fabrics.

Conclusion: Cotton also works for biking - absorbs sweat and doesn't dry as quickly, but doesn't smell immediately and is cheap.

Opinion

I recently rode a classic bike jersey again - and regretted it. Not immediately, but the same day. Sure, such a polyester material mix is light on the skin, cools on warm days and seems robust. But it smells so quickly. Which means: wear it once and put it in the washing machine. And wash it after every ride? I think that's daft.
But hey, everyone is different. And so is everyone's nose. Mine is big and smells a lot - unfortunately also in the wardrobe in our test cellar. My colleagues' synthetic clothing smells like a chemical factory after work.

This doesn't happen so quickly with cotton shirts. With merino blend jersey, it takes several days before it starts to smell. With pure merino wool, it can even take weeks - but it's usually too warm for me.

My conclusion: I wear cotton shirts in summer and merino jerseys as a base layer in all other seasons. My nose thanks me. And others probably do too.

Laurin Lehner, BIKE editor