E-MTB with singlespeed: Is one gear the perfect setup for freeriders?

Emil Moser is one of a new generation of social media athletes who achieve great distances with precise riding technique, high speed and spectacular jumps. His unique selling point: while many creators perform their tricks on dirt bikes, the 22-year-old consistently realises comparable manoeuvres on an E-Enduro. Below we present six key highlights of his set-up.

1. more than just a shuttle

Repetition is the be-all and end-all if new tricks and manoeuvres are not only to work, but also to become part of muscle memory. This is exactly where the e-bike shows its greatest strength. I simply get twice as many attempts in the same amount of time - on a jump, for example. Whereas with the classic Dirtbike after a run back to the start, I'm back at the top with the Moterra for the second time.

The higher weight also ensures a noticeably more stable trajectory in the air. Especially when there is a lot of airtime, this gives me a lot more safety. In the bike park with a lift, however, I unplug the Moterra and take the battery out. Because the weight distribution is even better without the battery. Heavy in the centre, pleasantly light at the front and rear. The result: turning on its own axis is as easy as can be.

2. a lot helps a lot

Worst case scenario when jumping? You start to jump, push off - and suddenly the tyre rolls to the side. The energy is lost and, in the worst case, the trajectory flattens out so much that the landing becomes a lottery. That's why I run my tyres rock hard: 3 to 3.5 bar. This makes the bike feel more predictable. If I'm travelling on normal trails, I deflate the tyres a little. Two bar is my rough guide.

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3. milk boy?

No, thank you! I swear by inner tubes. Firstly, I don't want the hassle of changing tyres tubeless. Secondly - and more importantly - I don't lose any air if the tyre bounces out of the rim bed on a berm or during compressions.

4. suspension setup

My fork is a Manitou Mezzer and the shock is a DHX Performance Coil from Fox. For the SAG, I aim for the standard 30 per cent at the front and rear. The setup only gets exciting with the rebound damping - I run it as slowly as possible. This is anything but ideal for fine response behaviour in rough terrain, but essential when jumping. If the fork in particular rebounds too quickly after the jump, this impulse pulls the front wheel downwards. The result: a classic "nose dive". The front end dives in the air and there is a risk of the bike flying over the handlebars on landing. The slow rebound prevents this and enables a controlled, safe flight phase.

5. one for all

With my riding style, crashes are the order of the day. This makes it all the more important that I don't have to go straight to the workshop after every crash. So I systematically eliminated the component on the e-bike that is most prone to failure: the gears. The decision was easy. As I'm only travelling in turbo mode anyway, one gear is more than enough for me, even uphill. So I quickly removed the cassette, rear derailleur and gear lever and fitted a single-speed chain tensioner and a solid 8-speed chain instead. Since then, my bike has been practically indestructible.

6. wheels

The Cannondale Moterra LT comes from the factory with Mullet tyres. For even more playfulness, I swapped the 29er front wheel for a 27.5er.

Emil's setup no-gos

1. I have to clamp the handlebars in the stem so that the bar ends are as far up as possible - otherwise my posture doesn't fit.
2. Especially at dirt spots, I see people without helmets all the time - it's not possible.
3. The longer the stem, the larger the barspin radius. Anything over 35 millimetres is a no-go for me.