Your bike can be winterised and made safer for riding on slippery surfaces. Worn tyres with low tread should be replaced in autumn at the latest. A common tip is to reduce the air pressure in the tyres to increase the contact area and thus achieve more grip. However, René Filippek from the Allgemeiner Deutscher Fahrrad-Club (ADFC) warns that this should be done with caution:
Many people already ride with very little air in their tyres. If you let out even more air, you should never go below the minimum pressure stated on the tyre sidewall - otherwise the tyre will be damaged.
The cycling expert knows that a flatter tyre leads to better grip, but also to greater rolling resistance: "Cycling with low air pressure is noticeably more strenuous. Everyone has to decide for themselves whether they want to accept this."
Brake and steer safely with spikes on the bike tyre
Filippek advises putting on special winter tyres instead or - in regions with a lot of snow and ice - even tyres with metal studs. "These tyres allow you to brake and corner safely even on icy roads. Unlike cars, spikes are permitted on bicycles as they do not damage the road surface," says the ADFC expert. Disadvantage: Spikes are very loud on tarmac and they also increase rolling resistance considerably. According to Filippek, winter tyres, which are available for 26 or 28-inch trekking bikes, have less of an impact on handling: "They have a different rubber compound than conventional tyres and sipes. As a result, they cover a larger surface area on the ground and don't slip as quickly when cycling in winter. They are well suited to regions where the winter is a little milder and black ice is rarely expected."
Saddle down is more of an emergency solution
Filippek is not enthusiastic about the much-read tip to lower the saddle in snow and ice so that you can reach the ground more quickly with your feet as soon as the bike starts to slip: "A lower saddle makes pedalling less efficient and riding more strenuous. For frequent riders, the changed position can also really put a strain on the knees." For short distances, however, this measure can be an emergency solution if you feel safer with it.
Protection for people and materials
A bike that also leaves the garage in winter should have deep-drawn mudguards as well as good lights that always work. "Mudguards tend to be short from the factory," says Filippek. "If you want to protect your shoes from splashes of dirt, you can attach an additional splash guard, as you often see on Dutch bikes." A cover that protects the saddle of outdoor bikes from the weather prevents cold, wet buttocks. E-bike riders should insulate the temperature-sensitive battery with a neoprene protective cover in winter and take it into the warmth after the ride. If you then regularly wipe the headlights and reflectors with a damp cloth so that they can reflect at all, you are ready for the next ride.
Speaking of rags: "If you regularly ride in wet weather, you have to grease the moving parts much more often than usual, because road salt and metal don't get along," warns ADFC expert Filippek. "A completely open derailleur system in particular is literally bombarded by this salty wetness while riding. Frequent riders can oil it twice a day." A hub gear is better protected, but even with these bikes, winter riders should regularly run the chain through a cloth and oil it, says Filippek. "As soon as you hear the chain during the ride, it's time to do it."
