Riding technique: The 7 most important manoeuvres for mountain biking

Driving technique 1: Manual impulse

The manual impulse is the number one off-road manoeuvre, whether it's a hollow, kerb, tree trunk or stream - you need it everywhere.

• Approach: Ride towards the terrain to be overcome with momentum and in a straight line. The saddle is lowered at least halfway. Your legs and arms are bent and your eyes are focussed on the obstacle.
• Up with it: You initiate the manual impulse just before the obstacle: To do this, you dynamically stretch your legs and arms backwards and upwards. As a result, the centre of gravity moves backwards and the front wheel lifts off the ground.
• Case 1 - Stage: If you hit a step or a tree trunk, you have to place the front wheel precisely on the obstacle and pull up with the rear in a flash by swinging your hips so that the rear wheel doesn't hit the obstacle.
• Case 2 - puddle, trough: The bigger the puddle or the more uncertain the surface, the longer the manual ride should last. The arms are stretched out, one finger reaches for the rear brake depending on the situation. Adjust your lateral balance with the help of your shoulders and knees.
• The most common mistakes: Fear of stepping backwards - consequence: impulse too weak; tipping sideways (lack of balance!); starting with power instead of momentum

Details of the manual impulse image

• One finger is on the brake.
• The arms are almost stretched.
• Nice side effect: your bum stays dry.
• The knees fold to the side depending on the situation for more balance.

You can't avoid this manoeuvre off-road. It is also a safety move. It is also used when the ground is unpredictable. For example, in foliage, snow or a gully. After all, you don't know whether you might get stuck with the front wheel. Therefore: always up front! - Stefan Herrmann, driving technique expert

>> Here you will find riding technique tips for jumping

Driving technique 2: Emergency exit!

Determination is everything: if you have to abort an action in tricky terrain, then please do so:

• Approach: Are you travelling on steep, technical terrain and want to abort even though the action has already started? First of all: stay cool! Assess whether a descent is still possible. Pay attention to the steepness and traction.
• Cancelled! Bring the bike to a controlled stop and at the same time shift your weight onto your rear foot. Result: Crank movement backwards, downwards. The torso moves behind the saddle. Use your front foot as a supporting leg. And now, dismount carefully.
• The most common mistakes: Reacts too late; undosed, jerky braking; centre of gravity too high

Ideally, you should know beforehand whether you can and want to conquer the passage. If you are travelling in unfamiliar terrain, it can still happen that you have to abort an action. Important: bring the bike to a controlled stop. - Stefan Herrmann

Riding technique 3: Braking in a controlled manner

Stop safely? This is how it works! Sensitivity helps in many situations in life - even when braking. If you hit the brakes too hard, you lose grip and control and risk a fall.

• Learning without risk: Engage the front brake in such a controlled manner that you can run alongside the bike and the rear wheel is always at the same height during the movement. Practise this for five minutes every day. The smoother you are, the more precisely you brake.

• The most common mistakes: Too little pressure on the front wheel; lack of brake metering (locking wheels); braking too weak

Details on the image of metered braking

• Estimate how much grip the surface provides and adjust your braking action accordingly.
• Feel when the brake engages and gently dose the finger flexion.
• Blocking wheels must always be avoided.
• The more pressure on the front, the more braking power the front wheel can handle.

It seems so simple, yet time and again I see bikers who stumble due to incorrect use of the brakes. Especially when it comes down to it, sensitivity seems to be forgotten. Important: a balanced position on the bike. If you hang too far back on a steep descent out of fear, you will lose control at the front and won't be able to brake. - Stefan Herrmann

Riding technique 4: Steep descent

Keep your nerve and keep going: The steep descent is the only MTB manoeuvre that requires more mental strength than technique. It's all or nothing here - halfway always goes wrong.

• The most common mistakes: Fear; locking wheels (loss of control); centre of gravity too rear-heavy

Details of the image of the steep descent

• The saddle is completely lowered, which gives you room to manoeuvre.
• The centre of gravity is shifted slightly to the rear. Nevertheless, you exert enough pressure on the front wheel.
• The front/rear braking ratio should be approx. 80 to 20 per cent.
• The cranks are horizontal and your feet are against the pedals.
• Your gaze wanders from the ground in front of the front wheel to the outlet.
• The arms are slightly bent in order to be able to react to unevenness.
• Drive as straight a line as possible - no unnecessary steering movements.
• Pay attention to the compression when draining.

Do you dare to take on the descent? Then be determined and go for it. Check beforehand whether the surface has sufficient grip and whether there is enough run-out. Tip: Relax, breathe in and out consciously and repeatedly. - Stefan Herrmann

Riding technique 5: Scratching the bend

Skilfully pushing the bike into the bend: Everyone thinks they can do it, but only very few people have mastered perfect cornering. There are several variations - this is the most important one.

• Estimate: The following criteria must be observed during the approach: 1. curve radius, 2. surface, 3. run-out. Adjust your speed to these three points. Ideally, you should brake before the bend and release the brakes at the latest at the entrance to the bend.
• Get it in! Now you need to reconcile traction and lean angle. Depending on the traction (surface), tilt the bike intensively or only slightly into the bend. To do this, stretch the arm on the inside of the bend and bend the arm on the outside of the bend. Support your legs.
• Out with a bang: Maintain pressure on the pedal on the outside of the bend before levelling the bike again at the exit of the bend. Make sure your body is centred here too. Practise the movement on a tarmac road, where you have maximum grip.

• Not like this! The rider steers instead of pushing the bike into the bend. The result: more steering angle and therefore possible oversteering (loss of control!). In addition, the body's centre of gravity is far too high and the crank position is wrong! Oh yes, and it doesn't look very dynamic.
• The most common mistakes: Too little lean angle; centre of gravity too far back; centre of gravity too high

Details on the image of the correct curve scratching

• Your eyes are focussed on the exit of the bend.
• Come forward! The chin is level with the stem. Consequence: Pressure on the front wheel.
• The index fingers rest on the brake levers.
• The knee on the outside of the bend presses against the frame - also turn your hips in slightly.
• The berm provides additional traction. Put pressure on the pedal on the outside of the bend.

Riding technique 6: Balancing act

Learning by feeling: Balance takes you further in many biking situations. For example, on steep descents or exposed alpine trails. In addition to a sense of balance and mental strength, there are a few technical points to consider.

• Plan B: Losing your balance? Never mind! Open the brakes! Pull away sideways and take the weight off the front wheel. See "Riding technique 7: Lightning drop"
• The most common mistakes: Lack of balance; tricky start (unsteadiness in the bike); anxiety

Details of the image of the balancing act

• Before you start: relax, breathe in and out consciously and repeatedly - this calms you down.
• Your eyes are primarily focussed on the target and only occasionally wander to the front wheel.
• Brake according to the situation, keep the speed to walking pace.
• Compensate for imbalances by folding your elbows and knees out to the side (discreetly).
• The crank position is horizontal. Legs and arms are slightly bent. The saddle is lowered - even on the approach.

The good news is that you can learn to balance without risk. Practise balancing on the spot every day without putting your foot down. Even better: simulate "skinnys", e.g. along a kerb. As your sense of balance increases, so does your mental strength. As with everything in life, believe in yourself and your abilities! - Stefan Herrmann

Riding technique 7: The flash drop

This emergency manoeuvre usually has to be used in unfamiliar terrain. With this technique, you can prevent the dreaded over-the-bar (OTB) manoeuvre.

• 1. uncertainty: A classic situation on the trail: you don't know whether the edge of the terrain is rollable or not? With measured use of the brakes and a sense of balance, you slowly feel your way round to assess the terrain in front of you.
• 2nd decision: You realise at the last moment: The edge of the terrain cannot be rolled off. Now you have to act with lightning speed. Apply the brakes! You are already going very slowly as you approach the step.
• 3. lightning impulse: Impulsively stretch your arms and legs, the torso rises backwards. As a result, the front wheel becomes light in time and does not dive uncontrollably into the depths.
• 4. extend: If the emergency plan works, both wheels hover in the air at the same height for a fraction of a second. Use your legs and arms to absorb the landing energy.
• The most common mistakes: Incorrect timing; missing manual pulse

Further details on the picture gallery

• Position 1: The eye checks the edge of the terrain and weighs up the options. Can it roll off or not?
• Position 2: Can't be unrolled? So flash-drop! The more bent your arms are, the more intense the manual impulse can be.
• Position 3 and 4: Now you have to hope: If you're too slow, the rear wheel will get stuck. OTB danger!

The only difference between the flash drop and the normal drop technique is that in practice it is applied hastily and with very little speed. In the terrain, it can save your bum. Practise on mini edges and reduce your speed from time to time. The rear wheel should not get stuck on the edge. - Stefan Herrmann

Stefan Herrmann is Germany's number one riding technique expert and has already helped thousands of bikers to achieve more flow in his riding technique seminars. He has been passing on his expertise to his course participants for 23 years and knows exactly where the sticking points are in the terrain.