Like almost all MTB riding techniques, cornering is best learnt on a flat asphalt surface with plenty of space. This is because the sequence of movements involved in cornering is relatively complex and needs to be rehearsed without the interference of terrain.
The decisive factor is the curve radius, which must be correctly assessed from the starting position. Your eyes scan the course of the bend and look towards the end of the bend before turning in. A bend is always approached from the very outside. This is the only way to utilise every centimetre of space and keep the radius of the bend as large as possible. Only now does the actual cornering begin: stretch the arm on the inside of the bend as you turn in.
This causes the mountain bike to lean. The tighter the bend, the more you have to push the bike underneath you into the lean angle. At the same time, your centre of gravity moves slightly backwards - but only as far as the gradient requires. Otherwise the front wheel will lose traction. Pull as far inwards as possible at the apex. Important: The crank on the outside of the bend is pointing vertically downwards when cornering! Now turn calmly and without frantic braking towards the end of the bend and back to the starting position.
On very tight serpentines, you can outsmart the curve radius, which is actually too tight, with the so-called transfer technique. You brake the bike to a standstill at the apex of the bend, lock the front wheel and let the bike swing loosely in the air in the new direction of travel. In addition to a good sense of balance, vision is crucial here: the place where you stop the front wheel must offer enough traction to prevent the tyre from slipping. The turning impulse is provided by the hips, the bike then follows automatically.
