Phase 1: Just before you really get down to business, the saddle is lowered a little. The aim is to always have your centre of gravity vertically slightly in front of the rear axle so that maximum pressure is applied to the rear wheel without the front wheel coming up. The arms are only slightly bent here. It is helpful to fixate on the highest point of the upcoming trail. The gear should not be too light so that you can pedal smoothly. The Support level is rather high, the turbo mode does no harm here.
In Phase 2 the incline increases. Here, you have to bend your arms to shift your weight forwards a little. As it is only moderately steep, you remain seated in the saddle. In Phase 3 It's time to get down to business. The saddle is lowered further to bring the centre of gravity back in front of the rear axle. The upper body is bent low over the handlebars, the pressure is on the nose of the saddle, the Brake is used for fine adjustment of the motor.
Only in Phase 4the steepest section of the ramp, your centre of gravity has to move even further forwards. In the round kick you go upwards and forwards out of the saddle. This puts a lot of strain on your thighs. If the surface is grippy, you don't need to worry about losing traction and spinning the rear wheel. Here it's more a question of taming a rising front wheel. The most important thing here is the position of your centre of gravity. Full physical effort is required here to bring it as far forwards as possible.
Important for steep ramps like this: The saddle must be lowered. At least a few centimetres, if not completely. The lower the saddle, the greater the freedom of movement on the bike and the lower you can crouch down. And if the front wheel does rise, you can bring the front down again by braking briefly.
Read our tip to find out how to get going again from a standing start, even on steep ramps: Starting uphill.
If the surface becomes slippery, you have to do everything you can to maintain traction. The tried and tested means of doing this is the uphill wheelie.
It's usually deep gravel that drives you to despair. The engine power cannot be brought to the ground because the rear wheel is spinning. There is only one thing to do here: put pressure on the rear wheel. And you generate as much pressure as possible by taking as much weight off the front wheel as possible. This can go so far that the tyre lifts off the ground, as in a wheelie.
Now it is crucial to keep your balance. Keeping your eyes as far forward as possible helps to stabilise the bike. The best way to control propulsion is by constantly grinding the rear brake. A round pedal stroke is also helpful.
PART 2: TRAIL (from 16 August)
PART 3: EXPERT (from 11 October)