All operating elements, such as the gear shift, support level switch and brake lever, require individual settings. Start with the brake lever. Adjust it towards the centre of the handlebars so that your index finger rests on the outermost end of the lever. If you brake with just one finger, you will have the best grip on the handlebars.
The lateral angle of the brake lever is also important. Adjust it so that you do not have to bend or twist your wrist. Ideally, the lever should be an extension of your outstretched arm. If the position is correct, align the gear lever, mode switch and seat post remote accordingly.
Nothing makes a bigger difference than the behaviour of the suspension fork and shock. Does the bike buck on roots or does it fly gently over them? To achieve the optimum, the suspension must be adapted to the weight of the rider, including luggage. To do this, first set the negative suspension travel (SAG). The SAG is the part of the suspension travel by which the suspension dips when you sit on it. First, slide the rubber rings on the fork and damper all the way down.
The rubber rings indicate the SAG after mounting. This should be between 20 and 30 per cent of the total suspension travel. The air pressure is then adjusted at the front and rear using the shock pump.
The damping (rebound speed) is regulated via small adjustment screws on the spring elements. The damping works correctly when the wheels follow the unevenness of the ground. Only trial and error will help here.
The saddle height and position are decisive parameters. Even small changes can lead to big improvements in seating comfort and riding characteristics. If you sit too high, for example, your pelvis tilts back and forth, the sit bones are alternately under a lot of strain and it ends up hurting here and there.
Rule of thumb for the saddle position: the further forwards you mount the saddle, the better you can cope with steep climbs. A slightly lowered saddle nose also helps when climbing and avoids unpleasant pressure points. This all depends on your individual body anatomy and training condition. The same applies here: experiment.
The air pressure in the tyres is crucial for traction and comfort. The lower the pressure, the better the tread can grip the ground. Too little, however, means susceptibility to punctures. Thick, heavy tyres tolerate lower air pressures than lightweight tyres.
You can get a feel for the correct air pressure by simply squeezing the tyre. If the carcass flexes too much, you should re-inflate. The subjective feeling when (cornering) also plays a role.
PART 2: TRAIL (from 16 August)
PART 3: EXPERT (from 11 October)