As soon as you turn off the tarmac track, you discover the almost unlimited possibilities of off-road riding - and the technical challenges. On a road bike, riding technique plays a rather subordinate role, but if you want to be safe and fast off-road, you need to pay attention to a few things. The first step towards safe off-road riding starts with the right bike set-up. Many cross-country beginners choose too sporty a position on the bike - and then have problems with the constantly necessary weight transfer. This is because all manoeuvres on a crosser or gravel bike are easier if the saddle is set slightly lower than on a road bike.
Gravel riding technique: tyres play a decisive role
The choice of tyres also influences the off-road riding experience: depending on the route and weather, the range of off-road tyres extends from only slightly profiled semi-slicks to chunky cross tyres. Although a lot can be gained with the right choice of off-road tyres, the right riding technique has the greatest influence on off-road riding enjoyment. The common off-road mantra - ride with foresight and stay calm - sounds simple but is often more difficult to put into practice than expected.
Helpful rule of thumb: Always look for the places with the most grip and make sure that you always ride over obstacles such as wet roots at right angles so that the rear wheel does not slip. If you do start to skid, avoid hectic braking manoeuvres and weight shifts. Tip: Try to develop a feeling for controlled drifting by deliberately provoking the rear wheel to slip - on familiar and easily visible routes. With our tips on the following pages, you will learn to overcome any obstacle quickly and safely - for new freedom on your bike!
Technique training: fast and safe through the terrain
Gravel riding technique: overcoming obstacles: The mini-hop for road cyclists
Experienced crossers are constantly in motion on the bike to shift their weight. With the right technique, smaller obstacles can be easily jumped over. But the right jumping technique takes time. Practice makes perfect. Smaller roots can be ridden over at right angles or jumped over with the mini-hop.
First shift your weight backwards and pull the handlebars upwards to get the front wheel in the air.
Then use the spring force of the tyres with a targeted impulse from your legs on the horizontal pedals and shift your weight forwards: the hips shoot forwards/upwards, the rear wheel is pulled upwards with the clipless pedals.
Experienced crossers - at the right speed - lift off the ground with the whole bike, land on both wheels at the same time and cushion the impact with their legs and arms. In the case of smaller obstacles and low speeds, you can simply pull the rear wheel along. As all the weight is transferred to the front wheel, the risk of a puncture is low.
Tip: Practise on flat, wide paths with sufficient space. Foam blocks or cardboard boxes (e.g. from hoses) are suitable practice obstacles.
Gravel riding technique: bends
Switch to the inside lane far enough before the bend and use the rise in the centre as a berm like a banked bend on a cycling track. This way, you won't run the risk of being carried out of the bend. But also watch out for oncoming traffic on country lanes and forest tracks! Slow down if you cannot see a bend. Approach bends on the outside so that you can ride through them on the inside at the apex.
This is particularly recommended in tight bends on muddy surfaces or damp grass: Click out of the pedal on the inside of the bend before turning so that you can use your leg as a counterbalance or support if the bike starts to lurch or slide. Avoid overgrown meadows and look out for trails - that's where you'll find the most grip. Otherwise, slow down and allow for a slight drift. Approach the bend high enough so that the centrifugal force cannot carry you off the road.
Gravel riding technique: Downhill: shift your weight
A compact body position allows you to maintain control on the descent. The centre of gravity is shifted slightly backwards just behind the bottom bracket, legs and arms are slightly bent (outstretched arms make steering more difficult!), your gaze is directed forwards. From this position, you can quickly shift your weight and adapt to the riding situation. The following applies on grassy surfaces: ideally, do not ride in the centre, where the paths are often rougher, but slightly to the side on the most extended part. But beware of ruts!
Tip: Ride in the lower handlebar grip. This gives you more control over the bike and allows greater braking power.
Gravel riding technique: Uphill
Take enough momentum with you and shift gears in good time, preferably before the hill. The basic rule is to shift your weight slightly to the rear so that the rear wheel does not spin due to the higher contact pressure. On very steep climbs, shift your weight forwards to prevent the front wheel from lifting off the ground. Try to pedal evenly and always stay in the saddle. Therefore: pedal in low gears, avoid pedalling in the cradle.
Gravel riding technique: Surfing
Sand races are the supreme discipline in cross sport. Even the pros struggle on sand and deep gravel. Fortunately, this type of surface is not encountered too often on relaxed cross-country rides. If you do come across a section with deep gravel, the most important thing is to stay calm.
Ride on paths with gravel or sand in a high gear and at high speed. The slower you are, the harder it is to keep your balance. Existing tyre tracks are a good guide, but do not force the bike in one direction. Better: keep your hands relaxed on the handlebars. Professionals call this technique of letting the bike determine your path "surfing".
Cross-country specialists grip the upper handlebars, while the lower handlebar grip provides more security for beginners. The body weight is shifted slightly to the rear so as not to exert additional pressure on the front wheel, which has to pave the way. The bike ploughs its way through the deep terrain without any active steering movement.
Gravel riding technique: Mud
Straight through is not only the fastest, but also the safest way. Semi-dry mud at the edge of the path forms uncontrollable ruts. It is therefore better to roll through the centre of the mud - even if it splashes. The motto: keep pedalling at all costs! Shift your weight to the rear wheel, stay in the saddle and concentrate on keeping the bike going and on track.
Tip: After riding through mud, remove any mud that may have collected on the brakes - otherwise the next mud pack will block the bike completely.
Profile and pressure decide: Safe and fast off-road
Riding technique is one thing, the right equipment is another. Tyres influence off-road handling like no other accessory. Tyre pressure also determines uncontrolled skidding, a clean track - or a puncture. Hard-inflated tyres do not make off-road riding faster, but more slippery and bumpy. With less tyre pressure, you are safer and more comfortable on the road. Here are our tips for tyres and tyre pressure on different surfaces.
Forest and field paths
When choosing the tyre pressure, you have to make a compromise between comfortable straight-line stability and sufficient grip in bends. Gravel tyres with a fine profile are ideal. Semi-slick tyres with a fine tread in the centre and studs on the side offer a little more safety. The significantly wider tyres compared to road bikes can withstand up to five bar of pressure on gravel - but less always gives better traction.
Stones and roots
When riding over hill and dale, the tyres are constantly exposed to impacts. You have to ride actively, i.e. constantly shift your weight to cushion the bumps in the road. To prevent the tyres from puncturing and the rims from being damaged, a tyre pressure of approx. 4-5 bar is advisable. The tyre tread plays a subordinate role - everything is possible, from gravel tyres to rough-tread cross tyres.
Mud and sludge
The tread plays a greater role on wet surfaces than on dry ones. Cross tyres with coarse studs are more suitable than finely profiled gravel tyres. In addition to the right tread, the tyre pressure also creates more traction and therefore safety: 2-2.5 bar improves grip.
Sand and gravel
The softer, sandier or smoother the surface, the better you can cope with low pressure. A maximum of 2-3 bar is recommended for sandy sections. However, hobby riders should adjust the tyre pressure to the predominant parts of the route. Coarser tread does not offer any advantages on sand, so semi-slick tyres are the right choice.
Snow and ice
Narrow tyres are a good choice in loose powder and fresh snow, while semi-slicks with side lugs are very suitable in packed, sticky snow. Cross tyres with coarse lugs are recommended for beginners - they provide more grip and a sense of security. Wider tyres help to keep the bike on track and make it easier to balance. The following applies to tyre pressure: the softer and deeper the snow, the lower the pressure.
Meadow
Gravel tyres also work in dry conditions, but a pronounced tread is essential for grip on wet grass. Coarse-tread cross tyres grip better and therefore allow a sporty riding style even on a muddy meadow. A medium tyre pressure of around 3-4 bar is ideal here.
