Content of part 3: Mastering steps and landings uphill and downhill
1st step uphill
Good pedal management combined with the right gear - that's the magic formula for mastering uphill steps. With a little feeling for the right timing, you will quickly experience a sense of achievement.
2nd step downhill
Downhill steps with pushing technique hardly differ with the E-MTB from the movement sequence with the classic mountain bike.
3. boost drop
Speed comes into play on the step down with boost drop. Here you accelerate in the smallest of spaces to master the step in flight.
4. curve boost
Slow in, fast out - with the Curve Boost you take the bends with style. You only accelerate at the end of the bend.
5. trail boost
Flying effortlessly over bumpy sections without pedalling - this is called Trail Boost and also works uphill thanks to the motor.
1st step uphill
Good pedal management combined with the right gear - that's the magic formula for mastering uphill steps. With a little feeling for the right timing, you will quickly experience success.
Pedal management and physical effort: The power of the motor combined with your own power creates completely new possibilities uphill. Steep gradients that were previously reserved for experts are now also feasible for normal bikers with e-MTBs. The key here is pedal management. About one bike length before the obstacle, your wrong foot should be up in front. Your arms are bent and your centre of gravity is in the middle of the bike (Fig. 1).
With the next powerful turn, lift the front wheel at the same time, place it on the edge of the step and at the same time come up explosively (Fig. 2).
Stretch your legs during this movement. The maximum extension is reached when the front wheel touches down on the step. The good foot is now in front again. The momentum and the shift in weight take the weight off the rear wheel, allowing it to roll easily over the step. The bike therefore rolls directly under your body onto the step (Fig. 3).
The good foot is still in front. At the end of the manoeuvre, the arms are stretched. Your body weight is now back on the rear wheel and you can tackle the next manoeuvre with your good foot in front (Fig. 4). It is helpful to set the drive to the highest possible support mode. The faster you accelerate over the short distance, the more momentum you will need to get to the next step.
TIP: To master this and most other trial manoeuvres, the right gear is of fundamental importance. You can easily find this out depending on the gear ratio of your bike. The bike should move forwards one wheel length with half a turn of the cranks. To do this, mark the position of the wheels on the flat and try out different gears. Also important for pedal management: the "good" and the "bad" foot. This refers to the individual "chocolate side", comparable to "goofy" and "regular" in skateboarding. You can easily recognise this when rolling on the flat: The "good" foot is always in front.
2nd step downhill
Downhill steps with pushing technique hardly differ with the E-MTB from the movement sequence with the classic mountain bike.
The pressing technique: Higher steps are particularly treacherous on slow descents. If you simply roll down them, you often hit the bottom bracket or pedal. Roll towards the edge with your front foot and crouch over the handlebars (image 1). As soon as the front wheel rolls over the edge, stretch your arms explosively forwards/downwards and push the handlebars in this direction. The front wheel lifts off, your arms are fully extended and the bike moves forwards under your body (Fig. 2). You also land in this position (Fig. 3). Then return to the starting position.
3. boost drop
Speed comes into play on the step down with boost drop. Here you accelerate in the smallest of spaces to master the step in flight.
Acceleration in the smallest of spaces: Switch to the highest support level and the right gear and approach the edge carefully. Timing is now required. One bike length before the edge, the wrong foot is in front and the upper body is above the front wheel (Fig. 1). With the next half turn of the pedals, push nundas bike forwards underneath you. At the same time, move your body backwards/upwards and build up body tension with outstretched arms (Fig. 2). Maintain this tension until the rear wheel rolls over the edge in a controlled manner and starts to land (Fig. 3).
4. curve boost
Slow in, fast out - with the Curve Boost you take the bends with style. You only accelerate at the end of the bend.
With steam from the bend: The Curve Boost is suitable for bikers who tend to be more cautious when cornering. Thanks to the support, you only pick up speed at the exit of the bend. The prerequisite is the correct curve line, i.e. from the outside to the inside and back to the outside again. The foot on the outside of the bend is down and fully loaded until the apex is passed. The arm on the inside of the bend is stretched, the outside arm is bent (Fig. 1). The highest support level is recommended. As you straighten your bike again at the exit of the bend, make yourself as small as possible (Fig. 2). Now accelerate towards the exit of the bend. Pedal for half or a full turn of the crank until your good foot is in front again. Push your bike down, stretch out at the same time and make yourself as light as possible (image 3). Thanks to the motor, you will jet out of the bend at speed.
5. trail boost
Flying effortlessly over bumpy sections without pedalling - this is called Trail Boost and also works uphill thanks to the motor.
Pick up momentum before the obstacle: The power of the motor not only pulls you up everywhere, but also pushes you forward. This is exactly what is meant by boost. Roots, rocks and small steps on the trail harbour the risk of touching down when pedalling. You also find it difficult to cushion impacts when pedalling. The trick is to build up enough momentum before the rough section so that you can easily roll over it without pedalling.
The boost comes via pedal management: With a rather heavy gear and a crouched posture, head towards the critical section (Fig. 1 and 2). After the next half turn of the pedals, when your good foot is in front again, push the bike downwards, straighten up with a swing and make yourself light (image 3). In this way, you can easily cover several metres without pedalling. Even uphill.
