Steep slopes that seem to stretch vertically towards the sky, blocked ramps interspersed with roots and rock steps - these mountain climbing extremes used to drive us classic mountain bikers to despair. If it wasn't a lack of pressure in the legs and fitness, then at some point it was certainly a lack of technical feasibility.
But it is precisely these nasty ramps that are now a real challenge for us e-mountain bikers. Just as it used to be a real addiction to fly even faster through technical downhills and master trial passages without taking your foot off the pedal.
It's the new desire for uphill riding. And nobody celebrates this as well as E-MTB riding technique expert Stefan Schlie. The first part of the riding technique trilogy is all about different uphill techniques and the basic knowledge that goes with them. Of course, this also includes pushing and carrying techniques for when you unexpectedly find yourself stuck on the bike. And I promise: Although we EMTB editors thought we already knew everything, Stefan's riding technique demonstrations on La Palma left us in disbelief more than once.
But in order to acquire the necessary balance and routine, the same applies here: practise as much as possible. But with all the fun of this new sport, that shouldn't be too difficult.
Content of part 1: Uphill tricks
1. BASICS:
- Cockpit
- Tyre pressure
- Saddle position
- The constant centre of gravity
- Support levels and gear selection
- Brake-Move-Control
- Starting uphill
2. UPHILL TECHNIQUES
- Uphill wheelie
- Extreme steep slopes
- Pushing aid
- Carrying a bike
1. BASICS
1.1 The cockpit: Arrange the controls so that all levers are within easy reach.
In addition to the classic mountain bike controls such as the brake/shift lever and dropper post, the E-MTB cockpit also has to accommodate the switch for the support levels. The most important thing is the position of the brakes. Set the levers relatively flat and slide them so far inwards that your index finger can reach the outside of the lever. The support level switch is usually located on the left-hand side because the front gearshift controls are no longer required. Adjust it so that you can reach it comfortably with your thumb without taking your hand off the grip. Depending on your riding style, you may use it as often as the gear levers.
Now the switch for the Vario support. Whether left or right is a matter of taste. Here too, it is important that it is easy to reach while riding. The support lever and support level switch often collide. Try out different positions. Do not rely on the manufacturer's standard cockpit setting. This often turns out to be completely wrong ergonomically.
1.2 Tyre pressure - less is usually more: With less pressure, you can turn your E-MTB into a climbing artist.
The lower the tyre pressure, the better the traction. It is also clear that the susceptibility to punctures increases. But: thicker tyres tolerate less pressure. If you want perfect traction and climbing ability and are prepared to put up with the odd puncture, you can go down to one bar with thick (2.8) plus tyres. With classic 2.2-2.4 tyres, the limit should be 1.5 bar. These values are of course dependent on your body weight.
1.3 Saddle position: The correct position of the saddle increases your climbing ability by a few per cent.
Tilt the saddle forwards a few degrees - this simply makes it easier to sit on steep climbs. If you now push the seat as far forwards as possible, you can keep the front wheel on the ground better on steep ramps. Set the maximum saddle height slightly lower (approx. one centimetre) than on a classic mountain bike. This ensures better freedom of movement on tricky steep sections.
1.4 The constant centre of gravity: The most important basic principle for e-MTBs as well as for classic biking and many other sports.
1.5 Support levels and gear selection: Control the enormous power of the motor - this is the only way to transfer its power efficiently to the ground.
The combination of turbo mode and a low gear is not always the first choice when things get steep. The power is so enormous that the rear wheel spins easily on loose surfaces. This should be avoided at all costs - for both economic and ecological reasons. Ride with foresight and shift down one or two support levels before a steep ramp with loose ground. The same applies to gear selection. The lowest gear is not always the most favourable on steep slopes. The lower the gear, the more awkwardly you pedal and the easier it is to lose your rhythm. But be careful: the lower the cadence, the higher the power consumption!
1.6 Brake-Move-Control - braking uphill: Sounds strange, but it makes sense. The brakes take on a whole new meaning on an E-MTB.
One of the most important tricks for mastering technically difficult uphill sections: always let the brakes slip a little. Even the best e-MTB motor is not really easy to control in the low torque range. The on/off behaviour of the power unit leads to a loss of traction in tricky passages. This effect can be eliminated with the brakes. With a more or less dragging brake and constant pedalling at the same time, you keep the engine constantly on traction. In this way, you can control the power delivery extremely sensitively, even in powerful turbo mode. Brake-Move-Control also plays an important role in the Uphill-Wheelie (point 2.1 - below).
TIP:
With the E-MTB, you can climb slopes that you can only dream of with classic bikes. Re-shape your brain, throw familiar habits overboard and don't despair when faced with slopes that seem far too steep. You can often conquer a slope with ease that you would never have thought possible before. And if it doesn't work out: there's hardly any risk of dangerous falls uphill.
1.7 Starting off on hills: If you know a few simple tricks when starting off on steep terrain, you can often still ride where others have to push with difficulty.
2. UPHILL TECHNIQUES
2.1 Uphill wheelie: When it comes to maximum climbing ability on steep terrain with poor traction, the uphill wheelie is the vehicle of choice.
The path gets steeper and steeper, and the rear wheel threatens to lose traction in the loose scree - a situation that occurs all too often off-road. With a conventional bike, you would have long since lost power in your legs. With the E-MTB, the fun really starts. The trick is to apply as much pressure as possible to the rear wheel so that it doesn't spin. And this is where the wheelie technique from trial sport comes into play. You would have the most pressure on the rear wheel if you were only rolling on the rear wheel. But you still need the front wheel to steer. So you try to achieve a state in which the front wheel is about to lift off with a "fast" wheelie.
You need a good dose of balance for this high school. Stretch your arms and lean backwards with courage. Don't look directly in front of the front wheel, but aim for a more distant point, for example the next bend. Pedal evenly at a high support level. The finger on the brake keeps the whole thing under control. If the front wheel threatens to rise too high, pull the rear brake sensitively and not too abruptly. Most of your body weight now rests on the rear wheel - this gives you endless traction.
2.2 Extreme steep slopes: If the rear wheel grips but you simply tip over backwards, then there's only one thing to do: put your weight forwards and pedal for all you're worth.
It's a real egg dance, but with a little practice, even steep ramps of this category become routine. When the front wheel rises, the only thing that helps is to shift your weight: put your bum on the tip of the saddle, bend your upper body forwards over the handlebars, bend your arms and pedal as smoothly as possible. Of course, the Brake Move Control technology also comes into play here as traction control. Such steep climbs are often peppered with more or less high obstacles in the form of steps or ledges. The only thing that helps then is to get out of the saddle briefly and first lift the front wheel and then the rear wheel over the step.
2.3 Pushing aid: If driving technique is no longer an option, the next step is pushing aid. At the push of a button, the motor helps to lift the heavy device. There are also useful tips here.
Owners of the new Bosch Purion gears or a Shimano motor can rejoice: the modern push aids are now much more ergonomic than the last generation. And with a few tricks, e-MTBs are now almost easier to push than their classic counterparts. But there are a few things to bear in mind. Firstly: the higher the gear, the more noticeable the pushing aid. In the lower gears, the motor has power, but the bike turns extremely slowly. Secondly, you can shift gears while pushing. The typical scenario is as follows: You get off the bike because you can't go any further when riding. You activate the push assist, start pushing and shift to a high gear. After the pushing section, you do the same thing in reverse order. So: push on a few metres, shift down at the same time, sit on the bike and start up the hill in the right low gear.
There are two ways of pushing: In the classic way (left picture), you simply push the bike alongside you. By pushing on the saddle, you can increase traction if necessary. If the terrain allows, it is often easier to push the bike on the rear wheel (right picture).
2.4 Carrying - it happens to everyone at some point: but with the right technique and a good rucksack, even a good 20 kilos is bearable.
To make the E-MTB sit more comfortably on your back, adjust the straps of the backpack so that it sits as close to your shoulders as possible. The crank with pedal points downwards. Now grip the bike by the fork leg and somewhere in the centre of the seat tube (Fig. 1). Squat down low, lift the bike over your head and place it on your shoulders (Fig. 2). Straighten up by stretching your legs. Ideally, the bike should now be resting on your rucksack with the bottom bracket area (image 3). Now climb through the carrying passage in small steps (image 4). The bike should be balanced so that your arms hardly have to do any holding work. Important when unloading after the carrying section: Squat down very low (image 5). This is easy on the intervertebral discs.
