Trial runner-up Stefan Schlie laid the foundations of his career in front of the television. "You can watch Derrick until you take your foot off the pedal," his father encouraged him in his parents' living room. Two years later, Stefan financed his student life with trial shows and later became a full professional. Six years ago, Stefan got on an e-MTB and immediately caught fire. He started experimenting, incorporating his tricks and moves from trial sport and developed what is now known as uphill flow. Climbs that you would consistently ignore on a classic bike become a challenge on an e-MTB. Single trails, tight bends and even high steps can be tackled with a dynamism that previously only existed on the downhill. Bike areas that are notorious for steep, demanding climbs suddenly become accessible to a wider audience. A whole new riding technique develops, a new biking style emerges.
On the way to becoming an uphill artist, even die-hard mountain bikers are confronted with new insights. For example, that the brakes take on the function of a clutch uphill and make an important contribution to traction. Or that it's easier to negotiate tricky passages with a lowered saddle.
Why are we telling you the anecdote about Schlie's TV exercises? Because special times call for special solutions. You don't necessarily need mountains to practise your uphill skills, not even your home trail. The small step up to the terrace is the perfect place to practise taking the weight off your bike on uphill obstacles. And the balance contest could now take place in the living room. Stay healthy!
TIP 1
Technical uphills require completely different settings than trails on the flat or downhill. It therefore makes sense to change the setup before a long climb. So don't forget to take the shock pump with you.
TIP 2
Always ride with one finger on the rear brake on tricky uphills. The motor power can be very sensitively dosed with grinding brakes.
We explain the most important settings on the following pages. Have fun practising.
Changing the seating position
A steep seat angle brings the body's centre of gravity forwards and dramatically improves climbing ability. You can vary the specified seat angle by the decisive number of degrees by pushing the saddle as far forwards as possible. You can support the effect by tilting the saddle forwards/downwards. This keeps you more firmly in the saddle on steep climbs. In addition, on very steep ramps, you can easily get your bum onto the top of the saddle.
Optimise cockpit
The position of the handlebars and all the controls depends on individual preferences. For most people, however, a brake lever that is not positioned too steeply downwards is suitable. Lateral position: so that you can comfortably reach the end of the grip with your index finger. Ergonomically, it is ideal if the switch for the support levels can be reached with the thumb at the same time.
Tyre pressure
The less air pressure in the tyres, the better the traction. This applies to any type of surface. Depending on the width of the rim, tyre model and body weight, the pressure can be reduced to around 1.4 bar. Below that, the handling becomes spongy and the risk of a puncture increases. The upper limit should not exceed two bar.
Adjusting the chassis
A firmer rear end reduces rear-end dive and helps to keep the centre of gravity at the front. For better climbing behaviour, you can therefore ride a little less SAG (negative suspension travel). However, you should not go below around 15 per cent of the total suspension travel, otherwise traction will suffer. Incidentally, this works the other way round for the fork: a little less air is more favourable.
Safely through the gravel
The be-all and end-all in deep gravel is the right line. This requires a particularly foresighted riding style. You should never look directly in front of the front wheel, but as far forwards as possible. This allows you to scan the correct lane and react in good time.
The most effective riding technique on gravel is called the uphill wheelie. This does not mean balancing uphill on the rear wheel, but simply shifting your entire body weight to the rear wheel - without losing your balance backwards, of course. This technique guarantees maximum traction. If the gravel gets so deep that it slows you down too much, don't skimp on the support levels.
Turbo mode is the easiest way to get through hairy passages. The faster you are travelling, the better, more stable and safer you will feel. You should only shift your body weight forwards again in bends where you are reliant on the front wheel to guide you.
Obstacle ahead
Thanks to the power of the motor, our e-MTBs can also tackle uphill obstacles that would not be possible on a classic bike. This doesn't mean staying seated and thundering up a step at full speed. It means leaving the comfort zone and getting out of the saddle. Timing is important now.
Bend your arms just before the obstacle and go low over the handlebars. Now stretch your arms quickly and powerfully - this will lift the front wheel over the obstacle. Now the rear wheel must follow. Stretch your legs and bring your hips and centre of gravity forwards - this will take the weight off the rear wheel. The higher the step, the more momentum you need.
Steep ramp
Steep ramps require a lot of feeling, good riding technique and sometimes a little experience. Depending on the surface, a mix of different techniques is required.
Is the surface non-slip? you are more likely to struggle with a rising front end than with traction problems. Remedy: Slide all the way forward onto the tip of the saddle, bend your upper body low over the handlebars and try to bring your centre of gravity as far forward/down as possible. Don't forget to pedal evenly!
If the surface is slippery, Then it gets more complicated. Now it's a matter of going so far forwards that the rear wheel doesn't spin, but the front doesn't rise either. Depending on the surface and incline, you may have more or less traction. That's why you have to keep adjusting the position of your centre of gravity.
So get out of the saddle, keep your body tension and pedal for all you're worth.
Starting uphill
Starting on a steep slope is tricky. Start by standing at right angles to the slope. The mountain foot is on the ground, the valley foot on the pedal, approximately in the 11 o'clock position (left pedal side) or 2 o'clock position (right pedal side). The brakes are applied. The second-highest support level and a gear that is not too low are often best.
Now the most important thing: Before you release the brake to start, put your foot on the pedal. Only then should you go full steam ahead. Regulate the propulsion with the brake dragging and vary your centre of gravity depending on the gradient and traction. Steer gently into the fall line.
The hairpin bend uphill
The hairpin bend uphill is the supreme discipline on an E-MTB. For large curve radii that just allow you to negotiate the bend without shifting the front wheel, the so-called random curve is used. The aim here is to utilise the given leeway as efficiently as possible.
You start off in the easiest gear and stay in the saddle. The line: as far out as possible. Always aim for the exit of the bend. Always work with the rear brake dragging in order to better control the engine power.
It is advisable to take this curve at the highest possible assistance level in order to retain sufficient reserves if necessary. So pedal through the entire bend as constantly and powerfully as possible, fine-tuning is done via the brakes. If the curve radius proves to be too tight, you can readjust it by shifting the front wheel.
Interview with Stefan Schlie
EMTB: Stefan, you come from a trials background. What skills and tricks help you most on uphills with the E-MTB?
STEFAN Schlie: Firstly, the braking skills. Controlled, grinding braking can calm even the roughest engine and bring the power to the ground like a clutch. Secondly, pedal management. The right pedal position is the be-all and end-all in rolling situations.
You always ride with flat pedals. Would you also recommend this to beginners?
There is only one reason to use clipless pedals on an e-mountainbike. This is a racing situation where you want to make up time without motor assistance. Otherwise, the E-MTB is predestined for platform pedals. You have more freedom and safety in tricky situations. In addition, the movement sequences are not spoilt by tearing or tugging.
Due to the current situation, most of us are hardly getting out on our bikes. Is there a dry exercise that is particularly good to do in the garden or even in the living room?
Clearly: keeping your balance. That's what I learnt on my trial bikes. At some point, my parents told me I could watch Derrick until I took one foot off the pedal. That was a huge incentive. But it doesn't have to be a whole thriller, you can start with the weather forecast for a start.
Extra tip from Stefan Schlie: Lower the saddle, at least a few centimetres - this gives you more freedom of movement and is essential, especially in tricky passages.
