The bike is often almost impossible to control on gravel tracks: The front wheel gets stuck, the rear wheel spins - the rider winds his way through the deep terrain in serpentine lines. EMTB riding technique expert Stefan Schlie shows you how to do it right.
KEY POINT 1: LINE SELECTION
Scan terrain: Even with the most powerful engine, you often get stuck mercilessly in deep gravel. It is therefore important to skilfully drive around these zones. The bird's eye view below illustrates this impressively. Experienced bikers scan the terrain and know exactly where the perfect line is. The lane is always marked by a darker colour. Make sure you stay in the saddle, otherwise you will take the weight off the rear wheel and lose additional traction. Pedal continuously with even pedal pressure. The following applies to the assistance level: as little as possible, as much as necessary. This is about the compromise between traction, power transmission and control. Choose a slightly higher gear - also for the sake of traction. If an area with particularly deep gravel lies ahead of you, accelerate hard beforehand - sufficient momentum helps.
CRUX 2: DOWNHILL GRAVEL CURVE
A question of timing: The wide gravel curve downhill is not at all trivial to ride. The right timing, the ideal line and perfect cornering technique are required. Again, scan the terrain to check the right line. To avoid braking in the bend, be sure to slow down to the right speed beforehand. Of course, this varies from person to person, but our gut feeling gives us clear indications. Now turn in and push the wheel into the bend at the same time. The arm on the inside of the bend is stretched, the outer arm is bent. The foot on the outside of the bend is down and exerts pressure on the pedal on the outside of the bend.
You practically stand with your entire weight on this pedal. It's as if you want to press the tyre sidewalls into the gravel (picture above). This is how you achieve maximum traction. You should look far ahead, first aiming for the apex and then the exit of the bend. After the apex, it's time to utilise maximum space again. Let yourself drift right to the edge of the bend. The right level of assistance is a matter of taste. Less experienced riders should select Tour mode to avoid undesirable acceleration when you start up again after exiting the bend.
CRUX 3: UPHILL GRAVEL BEND
Dosing with the brake: Two points distinguish the uphill from the downhill cornering technique. 1. the speed. And 2. the fact that you have to pedal uphill in the bend and can therefore push the bike less into the bend. In terms of lines, the same applies as downhill. Outside - inside - outside, unless any gravel depressions prevent this line. Uphill bends are usually ridden in a seated position. Steer in here too and push the bike slightly into the bend. Depending on the gradient, it is important to apply pressure to the handlebars. This ensures that the front wheel retains traction and can be steered precisely through the bend.
The assistance level depends on the surface, the curve radius and the gradient. Tight bends are taken at reduced speed - with a lower assistance level, you can control them better. It is also advisable not to use the highest assistance level on loose gravel. On the other hand, bends on steep climbs require more motor assistance. Intelligent modes, such as the eMTB mode from Bosch, always work best. First look at the apex of the bend, then at the end of the bend. The pedalling remains smooth. You can also control the speed using the dragging brake (Brake Move Control). This prevents loss of traction on the rear wheel and keeps the bike under control as much as possible.
