Almost weightless: E-MTB riding technique for advanced riders

Stefan Schlie

· 10.01.2017

Photo: Markus Greber

Almost weightless: E-MTB riding technique for advanced riders

Almost weightless: that's what you might think when you watch e-MTB riding technique pro Stefan Schlie. But with a little practice, even the advanced tricks can be mastered in a surprisingly short time.

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"This thing is so heavy, you can't get it round the corner!" - Some die-hard mountain bikers have a crisis on their first outing on an e-MTB. Many a manoeuvre that has become second nature over the years simply doesn't want to work properly with the new device. Often, it only takes a few small tricks and suddenly the riding technique on the motorised device starts to flow. Take a switchback downhill, for example: Turning the rear wheel works in exactly the same way as on a classic bike. You just need a little more pressure due to the low centre of gravity and the higher weight.

Some techniques, on the other hand, are only possible with the E-MTB. Shooting out of a bend at full speed uphill in a wheelie, for example (power curve). Or even almost vertical steps uphill without any special
trial skills. Or the uphill wheelie.

Anyone who wants to tackle the steepest ramps will appreciate the uphill wheelie technique. This also differs fundamentally from the classic bike technique.

However, anyone who takes these advanced techniques to heart should already be familiar with the Basics from EMTB No. 1 have familiarised themselves with. Here, Stefan describes what the "good" and the "bad" foot is, what he means by correct pedal management and how to find the optimum practice gear for all riding technique finesses.

If you use the motor support correctly, know how to assess the low centre of gravity of the E-MTB and combine this with classic bike riding technique, you will soon feel almost weightless...

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... with these manoeuvres:

- Narrow serpentine downhill
- Boost drop
- Steep obstacle uphill
- Power Curve

...

1st narrow serpentine downhill

A new feeling of weight transfer. The higher weight gives the starting impulse a new meaning.

With vigour into the bend: At this point, you might be wondering what this has to do with E-MTB riding technique. But a whole lot! The extra weight and the low centre of gravity make all the difference. This means some adjustment in corners that are so tight that you have to shift the rear wheel.
I compare pushing on the rear wheel to the game of pushing on the two rear legs of a chair while pushing the backrest forwards. And that is precisely the crucial point. The more you take the pressure off the seat, the easier it is to guide with the backrest.
Transferred to the bike: The more the forward impulse relieves the pedals, the easier it is to guide with the handlebars. The bend is approached from the outside inwards (Fig. 1).

Once you have reached the apex of the bend, you start to push off (Fig. 2). The cranks are still horizontal, your centre of gravity is in the middle of the bike and your arms are bent.

Now take the weight off the rear of the bike by moving forwards and upwards (Fig. 3). All the weight is now on the front wheel, which gains even more traction as a result. At the same time, the bike is pushed into the bend. The arm on the inside of the bend should be stretched. The starting impulse pushes the inert mass towards the outside of the bend.
By applying the front brake in a controlled manner, it won't be long before you are able to circle round the bend on the front wheel and not just statically offset. (Image 3)
In comparison with a classic bike, you will notice that the stability of the front wheel is acceptable and the risk of falling over the handlebars is minimised by the bike's low centre of gravity.

After completing the movement sequences, you then stand with your good foot in front at the exit of the bend. (Image 4)

4 Images

Photo: Markus Greber

...

2. boost drop

The downhill drop is also not a special E-MTB technique in itself. However, the motor assistance and the associated direct acceleration give this manoeuvre a whole new quality.

Take off with confidence: The Boost Drop is one of the most practical achievements of the new E-MTB riding technology. Because this manoeuvre quickly helps you out of tricky situations. On steps that are too steep to ride over, you simply accelerate briefly and plop down safely on both wheels.
Drops normally only work above a certain speed. Not so with the E-MTB. This is because the motor provides enough power to get the bike going, especially at higher assistance levels. The only important thing is the right pedal management. The drop also works on slow, technical trail rides.
If you come to a critical ledge that you cannot easily roll off, you should have the "wrong" foot in front one wheel length before the edge (Fig. 1).

You start the move with the next half turn of the pedal. The best way to do this is to switch to turbo mode and make sure you are in the right gear. Now bring your upper body forwards and bend your arms. After half a turn of the pedals, the "good" foot will be in front again (Fig. 2).

Now you need the right timing. Shortly before the front wheel rolls over the edge, your upper body should shoot backwards and upwards. At the same time, stretch your arms and use them to pull the front wheel up (Fig. 3).

The speed that you have previously built up with the short pedal stroke should be enough to "surf" the edge with the rear wheel. The more the weight is shifted backwards, the more likely it is that the rear wheel will touch the ground first. Landing with both wheels at the same time is ideal (Fig. 4) The dosage is a matter of practice. You can practise anywhere. Start small. For example, at the nearest kerb.

4 Images

Photo: Markus Greber

...

3. steep obstacle uphill

Have you ever seen a motorbike trial show? Seemingly weightless, the acrobats fly up almost vertical walls. Thanks to motor assistance, you can achieve similar feats with the E-MTB.

Like taking the lift to the top: The principles of pedal management, which have already been mentioned many times, come into play again on the steep uphill obstacle. Just as with the obstacle on easy terrain, the pedal sequence must be adapted and optimised for the terrain. The trick with high obstacles is to deal with the additional power of the motor, as the movement sequence begins in a standing position. You have to look at how to dose the motor power to prevent the rear wheel from spinning. Choosing the right level of assistance is very important here.
Turbo mode is ideal for very good grip. However, when things get slippery, it quickly reaches its untameable limits and you have to switch to Sport mode or Tour mode. The actual movement sequence begins one wheel length before the obstacle in a gear where you cover about one wheel length with half a turn of the pedals. In terms of body position, you tend to be further forwards with this technique and therefore have less pressure on the rear wheel to get traction on the ground (photos 1 and 2) ...

After half a turn of the pedals, the front wheel touches down on the obstacle and, with your centre of gravity at the front, there is an impulse forwards and upwards, which you can support with your body (Fig. 3).

The "good" pedal is now back in front and the bike continues to roll with the rear wheel heavily unloaded. As soon as it has ground contact or grip again, you have to continue pedalling in a controlled manner. (Image 4)

If everything goes right, you can stay in the flow in a situation like this, which you previously thought was impossible. (Image 5)

6 Images

Photo: Markus Greber

...

4. power curve

The "Braaap" experience that you've always missed on a classic bike. Accelerating out of corners at speed with the front wheel raised. No problem with an e-MTB and the right technique.

Full throttle through the bend: with this technique it is now not only possible to get round the bend at all, but even to continue with more momentum. Photo 1 shows how the "wrong" foot is in front and slightly up. The exact position depends on the gear selected. The upper body is slightly bent over the handlebars. The bike is pushed to the outside of the bend. The arm on the outside of the bend is extended. The line of the curve is traditionally chosen from the outside to the inside.
The power curve technique is only suitable on a surface that allows you to apply power to the ground at the limit. This means that the Power Curve is ridden at the highest possible support level.

... Photo 3 clearly shows how the front wheel is lifted with the next half turn of the pedals and the bike is pushed into the corner with the front wheel lifted. The moment the front wheel is in the air, you have maximum traction on the rear wheel. At the same time, your centre of gravity is already shifting from the rear towards the centre/front of the bike.

In very tight bends, you can do this with half a turn of the pedals and then be prepared for the next manoeuvre with your "good" foot in front. If you have more space, you can also make a full turn or one and a half turns of the crank with the front wheel lifted in the bend.

4 Images

Photo: Markus Greber

You can read this article or the entire EMTB 2/2016 issue in the EMTB app (<a href="https://itunes.apple.com/de/app/emtb-das-magazin-fur-e-mountainbiker/id1079396102?mt=8" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow">iTunes</a> and <a href="https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=de.delius_klasing.emtb" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow">Google Play</a> ) or order the issue in the <a href="http://www.delius-klasing.de/zeitschriften/EMTB.215962.html" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">DK-Shop</a> .

Photo: Markus Greber You can read this article or the entire EMTB 2/2016 issue in the EMTB app (iTunes and Google Play ) or order the issue in the DK-Shop .

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Almost weightless: E-MTB riding technique for advanced riders

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