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How unsexy is that? Long-sleeved functional shirts are not necessarily the kind of cycling material that triggers "want-to-have" reflexes: grey, dark blue or black, usually made of plastic, and often smelly and sweaty after just one hour. Over the years, many models come and go through my personal collection. But then there is the one that stays: a vest that is over ten years old, discoloured by countless washes, worn out at the collar - but simply a favourite. What makes it so is revealed by a thorough feel: the favourite vest buffers a wide temperature range, doesn't wrinkle even under tight jerseys and doesn't pinch anywhere. It hardly stinks. The sleeves are long and tight enough and the collar is the right height. That's actually everything.
But what sounds so simple is actually the exception rather than the rule. The matter is also quite individual: surveys among friends show that one person's favourite shirt is by no means suitable for everyone else. So is it all coincidence? No, not really. A few classics work for most people. And that's where it gets interesting. MYBIKE requested the latest long-sleeved functional shirts from the relevant manufacturers, which in their opinion are particularly suitable for bike training in cold weather.
Jörg Spaniol, MYBIKE test author:
There cannot be one test winner for all vests. The requirements are too different. However, most manufacturers know exactly what their shirts can do: Their recommendations for use are mostly close to our results.
At first glance, the result looks pretty homogeneous: slim fit, predominantly black, grey and synthetic fibres. But when you take a second look at the material label, it becomes extremely colourful. Unlike jerseys, where only two to three types of fibre are used, the long-sleeved functional shirts in the test are made from a total of seven different materials, up to five of them in a single shirt! Which blend is used certainly also has something to do with raw material prices, delivery conditions and any processing difficulties. However, the question of what the vest should ultimately do is crucial to the choice of material. And that is a very complex matter.
As a power plant, the body is optimised to a core temperature of around 37 degrees. If the temperature is too high or too low, not only does performance drop, but it also quickly becomes life-threatening. At the same time, the human machine operates in a very wide speed range and generates very variable amounts of waste heat. Sitting at a desk, the heat output should be around 100 watts, while the waste heat is around 600 watts even at an athletic pedalling power of 200 watts - humans do not have more than 25 percent efficiency. So there is a factor of six between rest and training, and therefore a technical challenge.
We compensate for excessively low temperatures with clothing, excessively high temperatures with radiation, airstream - and essentially through evaporation. The sweat we produce should evaporate as close to the body as possible for the best effect. The difficult task for the textile engineers: long-sleeved functional shirts must support this cooling, but at the same time dry so quickly that they do not continue to cool during rest periods. An almost impossible task, because not only the waste heat, but also the type and number of layers of clothing and the weather change frequently.
Fibre materials are at the top of the textile toolbox. It is known from laboratory tests that elastane, for example, which supports the fit, dries poorly. Or that polypropylene absorbs practically no water, while polyester and polyamide do so to a certain extent. The behaviour of wool and cotton has also been well studied, as has the feel of all these fabrics. No fibre performs as well as desired, regardless of moisture and temperature. Textile experts are therefore forced to optimise their product for certain external conditions and for certain training intensities through the choice and mix of materials.
The structure of the knitted fabric is also very important. Many long-sleeved functional shirts in the test have a different structure on the inside than on the outside: coarse stitches or loops are designed to draw perspiration to the surface of the shirt by capillary action, where it evaporates - close to the skin, but not directly on it - to cool or is passed on to the next layer of clothing. The tight fit of some patterns is also due to their function, as it guarantees full body contact. Merino wool plays a special role in this toolbox. This particularly fine sheep's wool stores a relatively large amount of moisture in its fibres before it is soaking wet and therefore hardly insulates at all. A merino shirt with, for example, 50 per cent moisture will therefore be more comfortable to wear than a cotton shirt with the same water content.
It also feels different to synthetic fibres. But wool polarises opinion: While the Odlo model was praised for being softer on the skin, Sportful and Icebreaker were criticised in some cases for being scratchy. We also only recommend thick wool shirts such as those from Odlo or Icebreaker to a limited extent for people who sweat a lot or for intensive training due to their drying behaviour. On the other hand, they can be ideal for relaxed pedelec tours - for another reason too.
The indisputable advantage of merino wool, from which three of our eleven patterns are entirely or predominantly knitted: The natural material develops practically no perspiration odour. This is due to the decomposition of sweat by bacterial strains - which do not colonise wool, but are happy to do so on synthetic fibres. It is almost impossible to predict on which synthetic fibre they will do this. Moreover, odour susceptibility often only develops after many washes.
Two long-sleeved functional shirts (GripGrab and UYN) had an antibacterial finish - a controversial extra from a dermatological point of view, as it is said to disrupt the skin's natural flora. In any case, the effect fades over time. In addition to the fibre blend, the fit also contributes significantly to wearing comfort. Shirts that fit like they have been painted on generally promote thermoregulation due to their close contact with the skin, but they are not made for fuller bodies. Falke, GripGrab, UYN and Van Rysel in particular take this approach with their highly elasticated, low-seam shirts. Pleasure cyclists can take a more casual approach, but a close fit is a must.
There can hardly be a single test winner in this product area. The boundary conditions are too diverse, the requirements for personal well-being too individual. Nevertheless, we are sure that our recommendations will help to avoid bad purchases - in unexpected co-operation with the manufacturers. Many of them provide information on the area of use of their long-sleeved functional shirts in the depths of the product description. They largely agree with our recommendations on temperature and intensity.
Castelli is normally a brand that shines with high functionality. In view of these expectations, the "Flanders Warm" comes off rather modestly. Although the pure polyester material dries quickly, the felted inside is very slow to absorb sweat. It remains on the skin and quickly becomes cold and wet. We therefore see the area of use in the less sweat-inducing speed range. As is typical for Castelli, the fit is orientated towards slim athletes, but the vest is not very flexible and "figure-tolerant" due to the only transversely elastic material. In terms of feel, several test subjects criticised the inelastic, scratchy seams. However, the shirt was obviously tailor-made for one tester: She made it her favourite.
MYBIKE verdict: Satisfactory
Football veteran Franz Beckenbauer coined the unforgotten phrase "We call it a classic" about the Germany-England duel. The Craft shirt, which has remained almost unchanged for years, is just such a classic. This current version contains a lot of recycled polyester and a little mesh knit, but overall it retains its tried and tested function. During training, the lightweight shirt absorbs noticeable moisture, making it slightly cooler. The manufacturer's recommendation is for use during more intensive exercise and in cool, but not freezing temperatures, which also corresponds to the experience of our test subjects. The pure polyester shirt without elastane doesn't fit quite as tightly as others, but it dries quickly. Away from exertion, the wearing comfort can't quite compete with the skin flatterers in the test.
MYBIKE verdict: Good
If you only look at the fibre blend and the drying times of the Falke shirt, you will totally underestimate it: It "wets" longer than other synthetic fibre models. The fact that it is nevertheless a favourite of the slim-fit test team is due to its good sweat wicking properties and its very close fit - it is even difficult to put on when the skin is damp. It misses out on the full fit score due to the slightly too wide neck area and a front length that rolls up slightly in tights. The manufacturer advertises it for mild to cold conditions and high training intensity. This largely corresponds to our findings. When it comes to temperature, we correct the recommendation slightly in the direction of warmth. Very sporty overall, but not a favourite among long-sleeved functional shirts for long hours of winter tours.
MYBIKE verdict: Good
Gore uses quick-drying material more consistently than any of its competitors. Because the polypropylene, which has a rough structure on the inside, accelerates the transport of perspiration even further, the very dry feeling on the skin is enhanced in comparison. The material scores particularly well under rainwear, which would otherwise cause moisture to build up. We would qualify the manufacturer's recommendation for high-intensity training in comparison to more cooling long-sleeved functional shirts, but the Gore shirt also works as a first layer on longer laps. Points of criticism were the somewhat "plastic-like" feel and cut details such as the somewhat low T-shirt collar. In addition, it takes a while to pull the sleeves in so far that they no longer cause annoying creases.
MYBIKE verdict: Very good
MYBIKE tip: "Rain" 2/2023
The good news first: no other long-sleeved functional shirts in the test received as much praise for their fit as this one. It fits well without cutting in anywhere and has the right proportions for sportsmen's and women's bodies, including upward tolerance. Unwashed, it smells a little chemically, which could be due to the controversial antibacterial finish. After several washes, this scent dissipated. The assessments of the body climate gathered in practice are also somewhat less euphoric: despite the complex knit structures and the high proportion of quick-drying polypropylene, the relatively thick GripGrab shirt soaks up moisture close to the skin and can feel clammy. It received little praise for more intensive continuous use.
MYBIKE verdict: Good
The expensive merino shirt combines the advantages and disadvantages of wool: the Icebreaker model hardly dries any faster than a cotton T-shirt, but feels significantly warmer when damp. Because merino wool cannot be knitted as cleverly as some synthetic fibres, this moist warmth can be felt close to the skin. We would therefore not recommend it for heavy sweating and high intensities. The feel of merino wool is polarising. One otherwise insensitive tester found the mesh knit on the back to be scratchy. Others praised the feel of the dry shirt - wool as a functional fibre remains a matter of feel. The cut of the (very large) Icebreaker shirt is sporty, but not cycling-specific and is more casual than close-fitting, especially on the stomach and hips.
MYBIKE verdict: Satisfactory
The Austrian company Löffler is a pioneer in functional underwear and processes various types of fibres in its own knitting mill. In the "Transtex Hybrid", the proportion of Lyocell fibre, which is obtained from wood, and cotton is particularly striking. The fibres are processed on two surfaces, and the inside and outside of the shirt differ significantly in terms of material and knit. According to the testers, this structure wicks moisture away from the skin to the outer surface. The cut is slim and close-fitting, but not compressive. For many, this feels more comfortable on the skin than the skin-tight skins. Not bike-specific, therefore relatively long at the front. The manufacturer recommends it for medium to high activity. A good fit. A very versatile shirt with a wide range of uses.
MYBIKE verdict: Good
Odlo's pure merino shirt is the clear winner in the skin flatterer category for long-sleeved functional shirts - at least in moderate use. "Almost silky surface" and "cotton feel" are written in the test sheets. Even the merino competitors Icebreaker and Sportful do not achieve such skin-friendly values. In the drying measurement, the shirt is in the midfield, at a similar level to Falke, GripGrab or Löffler. Nevertheless, it develops the typical warm and humid greenhouse climate during training. The manufacturer recommends it for moderate exertion. The cut is also more civilian, like a long-sleeved T-shirt with slim sleeves. It can wrinkle at the shoulders and stomach under tight jerseys. A shirt for cool leisure tours, travelling and pedelec cyclists.
MYBIKE verdict: Good
MYBIKE tip: "Pedelec" 2/2023
Three quarters wool, plus some polyamide to increase robustness and elastane for a closer fit: Sportful has created good conditions for success with the mix of its merino shirt. The fact that it still only just managed a "good" is due to weaknesses in each individual area. Several, but not all test subjects found the shirt scratchy - even merino wool has different fibre qualities. The majority praised the fit of the no-frills and sufficiently elasticated shirt, but a better rating was not possible due to the short length, which only works reliably with bib shorts (those who only wear these should have no problems). Although the shirt dries very quickly overall, the majority of testers criticised the insufficient sweat wicking.
MYBIKE verdict: Good
The Italian high-tech knitters behind UYN show off their technical capabilities: various surface structures, changing colours and thicknesses... You don't notice much of these subtleties on the road, but the bottom line is that the shirt is the recommendation for consistent cycling in the cold in this comparison of long-sleeved functional shirts. The two-ply knitted fabric transfers moisture to the outer layers, which is why it still feels good on the skin despite its poor drying behaviour. The rather tight, body-hugging fit supports this function. Two points of criticism relate to the cut of the shirt, which was made for winter sports: The long front made from the relatively thick material rolls up bulging in tights. And a slightly higher collar would be appropriate for such a warm shirt.
MYBIKE verdict: Very good
MYBIKE tip: "Winter" 2/2023
Overtaken on the right: For less than half the average price of the long-sleeved functional shirts in the test field, discounter Decathlon offers a competitive cycling vest with its own brand Van Rysel. Those who were able to try it out during more intensive training and in mild weather were very impressed, even without looking at the price tag. Once you've smoothed out the slim and very elasticated pellet, you'll be impressed by the race bike cut with pronounced long arms and body-hugging shoulders as well as a pleasantly high collar. In terms of body climate, however, the Van Rysel is somewhat limited. It distributes perspiration well, but leaves a slightly cooling rather than significantly warming effect - which is in line with the manufacturer's information on the area of use. The heat output in continuous operation is low.
MYBIKE verdict: Good
Especially on long rides in cold conditions, the vest has a major impact on your well-being. Our practical test with more than 50 samples, combined with laboratory measurements, led to clear recommendations. However, the results are not transferable to other, supposedly similar products. However, our experience with the various knit types and fibre blends shows that most manufacturers can control the function in a targeted manner.
MYBIKE: As a buyer, is it possible to recognise how a shirt will behave just by looking at the material information on the label?
STEFANOVIC: That's only possible with wool. In case of doubt, a pure wool shirt will always behave in a similar way because the fibre properties are largely fixed. With synthetic fibres, for example, the thickness and cross-section of the yarn can be adjusted. And this changes the properties of the shirt.
How important is the structure of the knitted fabric, for example a smooth knit like a T-shirt, compared to a roughened inside?
The structure of the knitted fabric makes a huge difference: stitch width, any loops, the twisting of a yarn - all of this has a massive influence on the wearing properties. As a customer, however, you can hardly judge this in advance.
Löffler offers many different fibre blends for functional underwear, and there are even more on the market. What determines the blend?
This is designed for the respective area of application, i.e. a certain temperature and intensity. Internally, it also has to be suitable for production, i.e. sewing, cutting and so on. Apart from that, it is the result of many years of development and many wear tests. We do this both internally and with athletes we support.
Do they at least agree in the end?
When it comes to comfort, everyone is different. And just as brand A jeans always fit one person but brand B suits another, professionals also prefer very different materials for functional underwear. Even if the cut and feel are the same, the choice depends heavily on personal preferences.
"The structure of the knitted fabric makes a huge difference."
For the test of long-sleeved functional shirts for cyclists, the manufacturers were largely free in their choice of patterns. Neither the basic material nor the area of use were specified.
As laboratory tests can only test partial aspects of the vests' function, MYBIKE ordered four to six copies of each sample. In total, more than 50 samples were given to experienced cyclists, who assessed the long-sleeved functional shirts on questionnaires at the end of each training session. The findings, such as the fit, feel and body climate, were discussed with the test subjects. A second stage of the practical test was carried out on the ergometer at a constant power output and outside temperature.
Moisture absorption and the drying process give an indication of the area of use. We immersed the long-sleeved functional shirts in water for half an hour, allowed them to drip dry and spun them briefly in the washing machine to eliminate waterlogging. During the further drying process, the shirts were weighed at regular intervals and the moisture content recorded. After four hours, the moisture content was below five per cent of the material weight in almost all cases. The majority of the shirts are knitted on two sides. The inside and outside differ in structure and, in some cases, material. The aim is to achieve a low, defined level of moisture in direct contact with the skin by wicking sweat away into the next layer of fabric. This property was tested and compared in a spray test with water.
Laboratory tests and practical assessments complement and support each other. However, despite the large number of samples and test subjects, the results contain strong subjective elements. In addition, even technically well-designed long-sleeved functional shirts are characterised by different areas of use - shown in the recommendations for "temperature" and "intensity". Not all products are made for exactly the same purpose. We have therefore refrained from using decimal scores.