Eco-balance: How green is bike clothing really?

Being outdoors. That's probably what all bikers have in common. Experiencing sport and fun outdoors in nature. We all realise that this needs to be preserved. Of course, we take our rubbish back down from the summit to the valley and we behave in a friendly and fair manner towards hikers and other bikers.

In many cases, we don't realise - or don't care - that neither of these aspects apply to the clothing we wear in nature. According to a large-scale survey conducted by BBE Retail on behalf of the Oeko-Tex Association, consumers buy their clothing primarily on the basis of product quality, followed by price and skin compatibility. Environmentally friendly aspects landed in one of the bottom places in the survey. Time to change that.

Unfortunately, it is not always made easy. Anyone interested in ecologically and fairly produced outdoor clothing is faced with a flood of polyester products. Mostly produced in Asia, often under questionable working conditions and using chemicals that end up in waste water without any consideration for nature.

But there are also companies that do things better. Fair wages, acceptable working hours and materials from nature. But how do you find them in the jungle of manufacturers? Most manufacturers label their products with various eco-labels. However, it is often unclear exactly what these labels mean and how trustworthy they are. If you would like to know more about the various eco and fair trade labels, you can find out more at

www.siegelklarheit.de

lots of valuable information. The site was launched by the German Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation and Development (BMZ) and explains in detail which labels actually help to protect the environment or improve the conditions in which products are manufactured. On the other hand, the initiative also shows which labels are only intended to give the manufacturer an ecological image.

The most important clothing labels in the sports segment

Not all seals are relevant for the outdoor clothing sector and not all of them take all stages of production into account. Here you will find an overview of the most important labels.

Bluesign Product

Sealer

The owner of the label is bluesign technologies AG, based in Switzerland. It was founded in 2000 by textile and chemical experts. An advisory board of scientists and sustainability experts monitors the development of the standard.

Goal/focus

The aim of the label is to reduce the environmental impact of the textile industry. It also stands for the safe production and processing of synthetic and natural fibres.

Good to know...

Products that have been at least 90 per cent processed in certified factories may bear the bluesign® seal.

Fair Wear Foundation (FWF)

The owner of the label is the Dutch Fair Wear Foundation (FWF), which is supported by trade unions, non-governmental organisations and trade and manufacturing organisations. Its members are around 80 textile companies representing around 120 brands. The FWF is active in 15 production countries in Europe, Africa and Asia.

The aim is to improve working conditions in companies in the textile industry worldwide. The focus is on companies in which textiles are sewn.

Member companies that score well in the audit are authorised to use the FWF seal on their products.

Oeko-Tex Made in Green

The "OEKO-TEX Made in Green" seal is awarded by the International Oeko-Tex® Association. This is an association of textile research and testing institutes.

The seal guarantees that textile products are free of harmful substances and have been manufactured in an environmentally friendly and socially responsible manner.

The seal relates to the production and utilisation phase. All requirements must be fulfilled immediately.

Fairtrade

The owner of the seal is the umbrella organisation FLO e. V. (Fairtrade Labelling Organizations International). It develops the criteria for fair trade. National member organisations such as TransFair e.V. market the seal.

The "Fairtrade Cotton" label stands for socially acceptable living and working conditions in cotton production. It is aimed in particular at small farmers. The licence fees and a share of the Fairtrade surcharge are used for projects in the producing countries. The label also sets requirements for environmentally friendly cotton cultivation.

Products bearing the "Fairtrade Cotton" seal are made from Fairtrade-certified cotton.

GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard)

The owner of the label is Global Standard gemeinnützige GmbH, which was founded by the International Working Group on Global Organic Textile Standards. This is an association of various organisations that are committed to environmentally friendly and socially responsible textile production.

The aim of the label is to establish a globally standardised, controllable, social and ecological standard that covers the entire production chain of textiles and makes it traceable. The focus is on the use of chemicals during production.

Textiles that consist of at least 70 percent organically produced natural fibres and meet the requirements of GOTS may bear the GOTS seal. Our assessment is based on version 4 of GOTS.

IVN BEST Natural Textile

The owner of the label is the International Association of the Natural Textile Industry (IVN). The association represents players in the natural textile industry, from fibre manufacturers to retailers. The IVN is a member of the IWG, the International Working Group on Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), which also awards a label.

The seal stands for the environmentally friendly and socially responsible production and processing of natural fibre textiles.

Only products in which all production stages are certified may bear the seal. Our assessment is based on version 5.0 of Naturtextil IVN certified BEST.

Manufacturer for the green conscience

Vaude is regarded as a model company for sustainably and fairly produced clothing and has won one award after another. However, there are now also a number of other companies on the outdoor market that are committed to ecologically compatible and fairly produced products. In our overview you will find a number of certified manufacturers and how their commitment is characterised. Although we have collected information from the manufacturers in an extensive survey, the list makes no claim to be exhaustive.

Attention: Labels are no guarantee!

Very important: if a manufacturer does not display any eco-labels or certificates on its website, this does not automatically mean that nothing is being done in this area. There are manufacturers who are already bound to very high standards due to their production location. Löffler, for example. Production takes place in Austria, at fair wages and under strict environmental regulations. Some smaller manufacturers simply cannot afford certification. The environmental and labour law seals are usually checked and awarded by private companies, which of course costs a lot of money.

For the customer, in turn, this means a lot of initiative. In addition to researching on the Internet, it is also possible to enquire directly with the manufacturer about the production conditions. Only those who get involved can make a difference.

By the way: A product only becomes truly sustainable if it is used for as long as possible. This means that instead of wearing the latest chic look on the trails every year, bike clothing should last for several seasons. Torn seams can be mended, a hole in a rain jacket can be re-taped and a faulty zip can be re-sewn.

Organic clothing: Sustainability to buy

So far, the number of clothing manufacturers in the MTB segment that produce sustainably and socially is still manageable - but the number is growing. We present four manufacturers who are already on the right track and are committed to fair working conditions and ecologically responsible products.

VAUDE

The company from Tettnang is quite rightly regarded as a role model in terms of environmental protection and social standards in the outdoor industry.

Since 2009, Vaude has been working consistently to produce its huge range of outdoor clothing sustainably and fairly. The manufacturer does not just rely on conventional labels. Vaude sets its own benchmark with Green Shape. The entire product life cycle is checked for Green Shape-labelled products. This starts with the design and continues with all the materials used, the production facilities, use and care as well as possible recycling of the products. The two-stage process guarantees that all materials are particularly environmentally friendly and that the manufacturer is also environmentally certified. Over 90 per cent of the product range currently bears the Green Shape logo. However, Vaude still faces major challenges, particularly when it comes to shoes, rucksacks and tents. Materials such as hard plastic, metals or foams for shoe soles are particularly tough nuts to crack from an ecological point of view, explains the company. Incidentally, you can also rent equipment or luggage from Vaude via the iRentit programme. This means you don't always have to buy expensive but rarely used equipment.

Vaude Steglio softshell jacket
Price 170 Euro / www.vaude.de

Bike jacket with a coffee flavour. The windproof membrane and fleece material of the Steglio are made from recycled coffee grounds. Vaude uses an environmentally friendly product without fluorocarbons (PFC) for the water-repellent impregnation.

TRIPLE 2

Since 2007, the brand has been producing outdoor clothing that works equally well in nature and the city. Their motto: ecological and socially just.

The Munich-based label is one of the few in the bike industry that has been committed to the values of "sustainability and social responsibility" from the very beginning. Triple2 manufactures 100 per cent of its collection in Croatia at above-average wages. 80 per cent of the materials used come from Europe. The nylon yarn for shirt production, for example, is spun directly on Lake Garda. All of the expertise is virtually local, which means short distances for the manufacturer and therefore less environmental impact as well as consistently high quality. Founder Matthias Dreuw is inventive in his choice of materials. In addition to merino wool and hemp fibres, the energy and environmental protection engineer uses a large proportion of recycled nylon, which is obtained from old fishing nets. Because Triple2 focusses on the entire textile chain, only Bluesign and Ökotex 100 standard-certified fabrics are used wherever possible. Damaged items can be repaired by the repair service. And when products from the collection have had their day, the manufacturer takes them back and recycles them.

Triple2 Barg Shorts / Sweet Performance Jersey
Prices 129,95 / 89,95 Euro / www.triple2.de

The lightweight and stretchy Barg shorts are made from 79 per cent recycled polyamide. The material is made from fishing nets and carpet production waste and spun into new yarn at Lake Garda. The women's version is equipped with a wide, extra-comfortable waistband, a side zip pocket and Velcro adjustments. Triple2 makes the matching jersey from recycled polyamide and Bluesign-certified polyester.

DEUTER

The Gersthofen-based company is number one on the backpack market. Their products are not only durable, but also fairly produced.

Sustainability is a top priority at Deuter. This is reflected above all in the robust and durable products. If you look closely, you can still see examples of the first bike rucksack, Bike 1 from 1990, on the backs of cyclists today. In addition to the robust materials, Deuter also offers a repair service at its headquarters, which repairs damaged rucksacks and sleeping bags. Many manufacturers always have their products produced where the prices are cheapest. Deuter avoids "supplier hopping" and has had its backpacks made by the same manufacturer in Vietnam since 1994. As a member of the Fair Wear Foundation (FWF), Deuter guarantees high social standards and fair working conditions at the production site. For this, Deuter is listed by the FWF as a Category Leader with the highest honour. As a member of the Partnership for Sustainable Textiles, the company campaigns at government level for social and ecological conditions in the production countries. Many Deuter products are already Bluesign-certified. The Gersthofen-based company only fills its down sleeping bags with goose down that is certified with the Responsible Down Standard and therefore does not come from live plucking.

Deuter Race Air 10
Price 79,95 Euro / www.deuter.com

With its 10-litre storage space, the new Race Air is perfect for day trips. Deuter has revised the Aircomfort carrying system. The open-pored padding should allow more air to reach the body and still be comfortable to wear. The promise of fair manufacturing and durability also applies to the new Race series.

LÖFFLER

From 1947, fine tights in particular were produced in Ried im Innkreis. Löffler has been manufacturing sportswear since 1973. As before: Made in Austria.

The Austrian manufacturer is a quiet player when it comes to sustainability and fair working conditions and deliberately avoids a flood of labels and certifications. However, Löffler can be proud of its ecological and social footprint. Around 200 employees in Ried im Innkreis account for around 80 per cent of the company's total added value. Due to the production site in Austria, the company is subject to strict legal requirements in terms of environmental protection and occupational safety. The majority of the fabrics used are produced in the company's own knitting mill. Anything that cannot be produced in-house is manufactured or sourced in Europe. From the development of the company's own fabrics to cutting and tailoring, all steps can take place on site. This ensures short distances and protects the environment. However, Löffler is not entirely without certificates: the production of the clothing is certified in accordance with the STeP standard from Oeko-Tex and guarantees the highest level of occupational safety and fair working conditions. All of the Austrian company's products bear the OEKO-TEX Standard 100 label, which stands for materials that are harmless to health and free from harmful substances.

Löffler Men's Shirt Transtex Merino LA
Price 69,99 Euro / www.loeffler.at

For this long-sleeved vest, Löffler uses the Transtex polypropylene fibre developed in-house on the inside. It is designed to transport a lot of moisture to the outside. Merino wool is used on the outside to prevent the body from cooling down even at low temperatures. The Transtex Merino LA Shirt is made in Austria from mulesing-free wool.

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