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Cycling rain jackets: 2-layer, 3-layer or 2.5-layer?
A cycling rain jacket, also known as a hardshell, always consists of several layers. At the heart of every rain jacket is the wafer-thin membrane that makes the jacket waterproof. It prevents rain from penetrating from the outside, but at best allows perspiration to escape in the form of vapour. With microporous membranes (e.g. Gore-Tex), the permeability is controlled via tiny holes. With non-porous membranes (e.g. SympaTex), a special molecular structure transports the water vapour out. Depending on the number of layers, the membrane is protected by a top layer and sometimes also by a lining material on the inside.
Cycling rain jacket with 3-layer jacket
If you want maximum stability and durability from your jacket, you should opt for a 3-layer jacket. Here, the outer fabric, membrane and lining are laminated into one layer. This protects the sensitive membrane from friction from above and below. This is a great advantage, especially if you often ride with a rucksack.
2-layer cycling jackets
In 2-layer jackets, only the outer fabric and membrane are joined to form a laminate. The lining fabric - if present - is attached to the cycling jacket. This can cause friction on the membrane and damage it in the long term.
The 2.5-layer rain jacket
A bike jacket with 2.5 layers is a lightweight yet durable solution and has the advantage that the membrane is also protected on the inside. However, a complete layer is not applied here, only a thin protective layer. Manufacturers use honeycomb patterns or carbon layers, for example. This makes the 2.5-layer models more stable than 2-layer jackets, but also lighter and more breathable than the robust 3-layer models.
The most important features of cycling rain jackets
Clever details make a cycling rain jacket waterproof and comfortable to wear in the long term. What use is the most expensive and waterproof membrane if the water is pouring down your neck via the collar?
1 - Hood over the helmet
Most mountain bike rain jacket hoods are worn over the helmet. Drawstrings should be used to adjust the hood to the head or to tighten it when not in use so that it does not flap in the wind. If the hood is too tight, it restricts movement around the head and the rear slides up. Then the spray water runs down the back of your trousers - unpleasant. So before buying, be sure to check whether the hood fits properly over your helmet.
2 - The right cut
The rule for bike jackets is: short at the front, long at the back. If the rear is cut too short, water will also run into the trousers from above. If the material at the front is puffy, water can collect in puddles.
3 - Long sleeves with flap
The sleeves should be long enough to reach over the cuff of the gloves, even with the arms stretched out. Small flaps, Velcro adjustments or stretch cuffs keep the rain out. If the sleeves are wide enough, they can be pushed up on longer climbs, which also improves ventilation.
4 - Slip pockets on the rain jacket
Side pockets keep your hands warm at the summit, but bulge out too much when fully loaded. It's better to stow your accessories in your rucksack. Caution: Some 2.5-layer laminates are only suitable for backpacks to a limited extent. For bike park use, small pockets on the left sleeve or generally on the left side are clever. The lift ticket can be stowed there and you don't have to rummage it out of your pocket with wet hands.
5 - Ventilation
Even with the most "breathable" rain jacket, you'll be stewing in your own juices on the ascent. Two-way zips, underarm vents, laser cuts and pockets with mesh inserts allow your overheated body to breathe in fresh air. But be careful, when you go downhill, it's time to seal the bulkheads. Otherwise the water will run into the jacket through the ventilation slits.
6 - Zips vs. rain jacket
The Achilles heel of rain jackets! All zips should be sealed, backed and equipped with small "garages". If the front zip is not waterproof, a rain gutter on the inside can divert the water downwards. Always make sure that the zips are carefully closed while riding.
For me, every rain jacket should have a hood. Otherwise the water will eventually run down the back of your neck - unpleasant. However, most hoods rustle loudly under the helmet. Many are too small for over the top. Then the rear slides up. - Stefan Frey, BIKE test editor
Materials science: PFAS and what you should know about them
PFAS are considered harmful to the environment and health, and yet the chemicals are still used in outdoor clothing. The EU wants to ban this group of substances. What is behind this?
That is why PFAS are dangerous:
Manufacturers are still using PFAS (per- and poly-fluorinated alkyl substances) for waterproof outdoor clothing. The fluorochemicals are water, dirt and grease repellent, but are suspected of having a negative effect on the hormone and immune system and causing cancer. PFAS are artificial substances that do not occur in nature. Because the compounds accumulate in water and soil and do not degrade in nature, they are also known as "eternal chemicals".
Hardly any regulations to date
To date, the EU authorisation process (REACH) has only regulated individual substances that have been proven to have negative effects. Five European countries, including Germany and the Netherlands, want to ban the production, use and import of this group of substances throughout the EU. This includes more than 10,000 substances. According to the Federal Environment Agency, however, possible restrictions are not expected until 2025 at the earliest.
Does my rain jacket contain PFAS?
According to the Federal Environment Agency, there are few ways for consumers to recognise whether products contain PFAS and to avoid them. In the case of clothing such as outdoor jackets, such products are usually labelled with seals such as GOTS or Blue Angel for textiles. Some manufacturers also indicate PTFE- and/or PFC-free materials on the labels. There are now also products labelled as PFC-free in the impregnation sector. Instead of PFAS-based sprays, natural greases or waxes can also be used.
These alternatives are available
Polyester (PES) membranes that are environmentally friendly and harmless to health allow high-quality recycling and greatly reduced greenhouse gas emissions while maintaining the same technical performance. The Sympatex membrane, for example, is PTFE- and PFC-free. Vaude also offers a "green" alternative with Ceplex. Gore-Tex recently launched its new e-PE membrane, which is made from expanded polyethylene. The first products made from this material are already available on the market.
The new generation of GORE-TEX products features an innovative membrane: this membrane is an important milestone on the brand's path to responsible performance and offers high-performance, hard-wearing products that have been developed for a long product life. The new GORE TEX ePE membrane (expanded polyethylene) is light, thin and yet robust. It is PFC-free and has a reduced CO2 footprint. To make a GORE-TEX product, the membrane is combined with carefully selected textiles, e.g. recycled, dissolved or undyed textiles. - Gorewear statement
FAQ - the most frequently asked questions about rain jackets
MVTR or RET value
The MVTR value (Moisture Vapour Transmission Rate) indicates how many grams of vapour per square metre can escape in 24 hours. A value above 10,000 g/m²/24h is considered very breathable. RET is an abbreviation for "Resistance to Evaporating Heat Transfer". The value indicates how much resistance the fabric offers to the passage of water vapour. An RET value of 0 to 6 is very good here. Unfortunately, these values are neither comparable with each other nor particularly meaningful because they usually only refer to the membrane and not to the entire laminate.
Does my cycling rain jacket breathe?
When we talk about breathability, we actually mean vapour permeability. Sweat escapes in the form of vapour through tiny pores in the membrane. This process is based on the principle of osmotic pressure and only works if there is a corresponding temperature gradient. In other words, if the outside temperature is close to our body temperature, we are literally stewing in our own juices. The cooler it is outside, the better the vapour permeability works.
DWR impregnation
DWR stands for "Durable Water Repellency". DWR is the outer protective barrier against moisture and prevents the outer fabric from soaking up water. Unfortunately, this function does not usually last very long. Then raindrops no longer roll off, but form a closed film on the outer textile layer. The result: the clothing not only feels clammy, it also loses its vapour permeability.
PFC-free - the green alternative
Even if PFC-free products are often not quite as effective, more and more manufacturers are now focussing on alternatives made from silicones or polymers, which are significantly more environmentally friendly. Nikwax and Fibertec, for example, deliberately avoid the use of PFCs in their waterproofing agents. When it comes to the membranes themselves, Sympatex is probably the best-known manufacturer of PFC-free products. But Vaude also uses polyurethane or polyester instead of PFC with its own Ceplex membrane. GORE-TEX - probably the best-known manufacturer of waterproof laminates - has also committed to removing all ecologically harmful PFCs from its consumer products and is on track to convert the majority of its portfolio by the end of 2025.
Waterproofing sprays: the lotus effect on your cycling jacket
Does your cycling jacket greedily soak up drops of water instead of letting them roll off like a lotus leaf? Then waterproofing sprays can help. The Fibertec Textile Guard Eco (500 ml, €16.95), for example, is 100% PFC-free and completely biodegradable. Ideally, it should be sprayed onto the freshly washed and still damp fabric from the outside and rubbed into the fabric with a sponge. The garment should be spread out flat on a table. About 120 ml is sufficient for a normal rain jacket. After the spray has been massaged in, the waterproofing is activated in the dryer. Alternatively, this can also be done with an iron. If the waterproofing wears off over time or after a wash, the DWR (Durable Water Repellency) should be reactivated in the dryer. Only when water no longer beads up even after heat treatment should you re-impregnate.
Washing cycling rain jackets, but the right way!
Putting rain gear in the washing machine gradually erases the DWR impregnation from the fabric. Especially if you put the cycling rain jacket in the normal wash, use washing powder and then spin it at 1400 rpm. This can cause the sensitive membrane to crease and tear. On the other hand, if you don't wash the rain jacket, dust and sweat will clog the pores. Then the function is also ruined.
That's the right way:
If used intensively, rainwear can be put in the washing drum five to six times a year, but not too full. Close all zips, loosen the drawstrings, then wash with 30 ml liquid detergent at 30 or 40 degrees, depending on the membrane used. Do not spin or use fabric softener! The latter will clog the pores and the breathability will be lost forever. Then tumble dry (30 minutes, max. 60 degrees) or simply hang on the line and then refresh the waterproofing with an iron (low temperature). Also important: make sure you remove any detergent residue from the detergent compartment before washing. Special sports detergents, such as Nikwax Tech Wash (300 ml, €9.95), are environmentally friendly and protect the DWR waterproofing.
Residue from sweat and dirt is the slow death of functional clothing. It is therefore advisable to wash them regularly. In principle, membranes can always withstand considerably more washes than coatings. As soon as a grey 'bacon edge' forms around the collar or cuffs, it's time to wash the rain jacket. - Guido Augustiniak, Fibertec
Stefan Frey
Editor
