1 Spring travel
On hardtails, 100 mm forks have established themselves. On a fully, 80 to 120 millimetres make sense, depending on the route and preferences.
2 bottle holdersr
A second bottle cage is mandatory on a marathon bike - unless you are riding with a hydration pack.
3 Weight
Professional hardtails weigh less than nine kilos. Those who value comfort and suspension travel will end up with ten to twelve kilos. When choosing materials, consider the rider's weight and riding style and don't push the limits.
4 Impeller size
Long-distance races are the ideal area of application for 29-inch bikes: more comfortable riding position, better rolling, more grip and traction, no rearing up on steep ramps, less rollover feeling on steps - but a little heavier.
5 Translation
Single chainrings that are too large can be a killer on steep climbs in the long distance. Make sure you have a suitable mountain gear for the MTB marathon you want to ride. Double drivetrains offer a wider range and more reserves for everyday marathon riders.
Andy Seewald, Kreidler works team: Fullys are on the rise!
It's impossible to say whether full suspension or rigid, it always depends on the route. But full-suspension bikes are getting better and lighter and are likely to become more and more popular. If you are travelling at high speed for a very long time on bumpy tracks, full suspension is easy on the body. If the surface is suitable, this even saves energy on the climbs, as you don't have to stand up as often. However, the hillier it gets, the more weight is important. This is where the hardtail still has the edge.
Andreas Hartmann, Team Craft Rocky Mountain: Fully? No need.
In our latitudes, a hardtail makes more sense. The races are very climbing-orientated and performance per kilo simply counts. So the bike has to be light. In addition, the technical demands are usually limited, so a hardtail is completely sufficient. Hardtails are also easier to maintain and there is less chance of damage. Personally, I prefer technically demanding courses where a fully has advantages. In Canada, for example, you don't need to compete on a hardtail on any race course.
What should you never do with your marathon bike?
I would never start with grammes. If you go long distances with ultralight tyres and drilled chainrings, you can only wait for a puncture. For example, I always use tyres with a reinforced sidewall, which are heavier but have better puncture protection.
What to do if a breakdown does occur?
So far I've always got through the races without any major problems, so I don't have much experience. Once I tore off my rear derailleur, but there was nothing to repair. You should always stay calm when it comes to smaller things. Think about it first and then work properly despite the stress of racing. If you're too hectic when changing the inner tube, you might tweak the new tube and end up with the next puncture.
How is it that you have hardly had a defect in so many races?
I am in the fortunate position of having a mechanic who checks my equipment carefully. I also change the wearing parts before they are worn out. My tyres don't last more than a month, and a chain rarely sees more than 1500 kilometres.
Regularly service the bike, nothing more?
In principle, yes, but I make sure that I never quickly put on a new chain the evening before a race, for example. Such night and fog actions usually backfire.
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Editor CvD