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Simply convert to tubeless with these tricks

Adrian Kaether

 · 02.12.2020

Simply convert to tubeless with these tricksPhoto: Georg Grieshaber
Simply convert to tubeless with these tricks

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For those who value puncture resistance, good rolling resistance, maximum grip and riding comfort, there is no way around tubeless systems.

This is what you need for the remodelling campaign:

Rim tape

Tubeless tyres require a special, sealed rim tape. The good news is that many manufacturers install such rim tapes ex works. They are labelled accordingly ("tubeless ready"). If not available, retrofit!

Tubeless labellingPhoto: Georg Grieshaber Tubeless labelling
Fig. 1: To fit, first clean the rim bed of any adhesive residue (alcohol), then apply the new tape without creases and under tension. Start just before the valve hole and allow the tape to overlap at the end so that the valve is glued over twice. This creates a better seal.Photo: Georg Grieshaber Fig. 1: To fit, first clean the rim bed of any adhesive residue (alcohol), then apply the new tape without creases and under tension. Start just before the valve hole and allow the tape to overlap at the end so that the valve is glued over twice. This creates a better seal. Fig. 2: Finally, pierce the hole for the valve with a small screwdriver or knife.Photo: Georg Grieshaber Fig. 2: Finally, pierce the hole for the valve with a small screwdriver or knife. Figure 3: Fitting the tubeless valve: Insert the valve and screw it firmly to the rim using the knurled nut. For an optimum fit, press the valve into the rim bed from the inside when tightening. Caution: Tubeless valves can have round or rectangular heads. With rectangular heads, make sure that the long side is aligned parallel to the running direction of the rim so that the rubber head of the valve lies as flat as possible in the rim well.Photo: Georg Grieshaber Figure 3: Fitting the tubeless valve: Insert the valve and screw it firmly to the rim using the knurled nut. For an optimum fit, press the valve into the rim bed from the inside when tightening. Caution: Tubeless valves can have round or rectangular heads. With rectangular heads, make sure that the long side is aligned parallel to the running direction of the rim so that the rubber head of the valve lies as flat as possible in the rim well. Fig. 4: Mount the tyre, fill with sealing milk: Now mount the tyre, observing the direction of travel (see arrow on tyre sidewall), unscrew the valve core with a valve driver (see Fig. 6) and fill in the milk through the valve using a syringe or a small portioning bottle (often supplied). A minimum of 60 millilitres is recommended for E-MTBs. If you want to be on the safe side, it is better to use 90 millilitres. Do not screw the valve core back in immediately! The tyre must first be filled so full that it sits in the rim bed (see Fig. 5).Photo: Georg Grieshaber Fig. 4: Mount the tyre, fill with sealing milk: Now mount the tyre, observing the direction of travel (see arrow on tyre sidewall), unscrew the valve core with a valve driver (see Fig. 6) and fill in the milk through the valve using a syringe or a small portioning bottle (often supplied). A minimum of 60 millilitres is recommended for E-MTBs. If you want to be on the safe side, it is better to use 90 millilitres. Do not screw the valve core back in immediately! The tyre must first be filled so full that it sits in the rim bed (see Fig. 5). Image 5: Inflating tyres with compressed air: Special pumps with compressed air reservoirs or tubeless boosters work best. First inflate the reservoir to 8 to 11 bar, then connect the pump head to the tubeless valve. With the flip of a lever, the air suddenly escapes into the new tyre and presses the sidewalls into the rim bed. A slight popping or banging is a good sign and indicates that the tyre is securely seated in the rim well.Photo: Georg Grieshaber Image 5: Inflating tyres with compressed air: Special pumps with compressed air reservoirs or tubeless boosters work best. First inflate the reservoir to 8 to 11 bar, then connect the pump head to the tubeless valve. With the flip of a lever, the air suddenly escapes into the new tyre and presses the sidewalls into the rim bed. A slight popping or banging is a good sign and indicates that the tyre is securely seated in the rim well.

No tubeless pump to hand?

Alternatively, you can also use a compressor to inflate the tyres. Make sure that the maximum pressure specified on the tyres and rims is not exceeded. We do not recommend inflating with a normal floor pump or a CO2 cartridge. Both methods are unreliable and only work with certain tyre/rim pairings, and otherwise cause a lot of frustration and a mess in the workshop. By the way: Air reservoirs are also available for normal floor pumps for retrofitting. For example from Schwalbe, Topeak or Milkit (from approx. 40 euros).

Fig. 6: Screwing in the valve core: To inflate the tyre to the final pressure, you must first screw in the valve core again. To do this, prepare the valve core after inflating, remove the pump head from the valve and quickly block the air from escaping from the tyre with your finger. Then remove your finger from the valve and quickly screw in the insert. Finally, use the floor pump to inflate the tyre to the desired pressure.Photo: Georg Grieshaber Fig. 6: Screwing in the valve core: To inflate the tyre to the final pressure, you must first screw in the valve core again. To do this, prepare the valve core after inflating, remove the pump head from the valve and quickly block the air from escaping from the tyre with your finger. Then remove your finger from the valve and quickly screw in the insert. Finally, use the floor pump to inflate the tyre to the desired pressure. Fig. 7: Check fit, shake: Finally, check that the tyre is seated correctly to ensure perfect function. The guide line on the sidewall of every tubeless tyre is used for this purpose. It should be the same distance from the rim everywhere. This ensures that the tyre does not become unbalanced and sits correctly in the rim flange. If necessary, help by increasing the air pressure until the tyre sits evenly everywhere. Caution: The maximum pressure of the tyre and rim should not be exceeded. Finally, shake the wheel at right angles to the direction of travel so that the sealant is optimally distributed in the tyre. This ensures that the tyre is completely sealed.Photo: Georg Grieshaber Fig. 7: Check fit, shake: Finally, check that the tyre is seated correctly to ensure perfect function. The guide line on the sidewall of every tubeless tyre is used for this purpose. It should be the same distance from the rim everywhere. This ensures that the tyre does not become unbalanced and sits correctly in the rim flange. If necessary, help by increasing the air pressure until the tyre sits evenly everywhere. Caution: The maximum pressure of the tyre and rim should not be exceeded. Finally, shake the wheel at right angles to the direction of travel so that the sealant is optimally distributed in the tyre. This ensures that the tyre is completely sealed.
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Guide line on the tyre sidewallPhoto: Georg Grieshaber Guide line on the tyre sidewall

The alternatives

The direct way: As an alternative to a syringe or bottle, you can also fill the sealant directly into the tyre. To do this, only mount the tyre on one side and pour the desired amount of sealant directly into the tyre. This is a little quicker, but often makes more mess. We therefore recommend the method discussed under 4. Once the milk is in the tyre, the tyre can be fully mounted and inflated.Photo: Georg Grieshaber The direct way: As an alternative to a syringe or bottle, you can also fill the sealant directly into the tyre. To do this, only mount the tyre on one side and pour the desired amount of sealant directly into the tyre. This is a little quicker, but often makes more mess. We therefore recommend the method discussed under 4. Once the milk is in the tyre, the tyre can be fully mounted and inflated.
Adrian Kaether

Adrian Kaether's favourite thing to do is ride mountain bikes on bumpy enduro trails. The tech expert and bike tester knows all about Newton metres and watt hours, high and low-speed damping. As test manager at MYBIKE, Adrian also likes to think outside the box and tests cargo bikes and step-through bikes as well as the latest (e-)MTBs.

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