The cold rain pours down with force on the chairlift's weather protection. Below me, somewhere in the misty void, the downhill route turns into a slippery nightmare. The steepness of the terrain means that not even the mud on the moss-covered rocks can hold up. Tyre testing is not a wishful thinking exercise. There are conditions where every tyre reaches its limit, I think to myself after the third skidding section as I roll cautiously to the start again.
But the next run proves me wrong. The Specialized DH tyres are a real eye-opener and make a lasting impression on me. Perfect control and a consistently secure feeling where other tyres fail without a trace. It all comes down to the material and the tyres, as the only link to the ground, even more so. Anyone thinking about changing tyres should therefore think carefully about what the tyre combination should do. As the choice of widths, treads and rubber compounds is huge, we have put together some decision-making aids on the following pages. In addition to the best tyres from past tests, you will also find the latest models.
Rollers, puncture protection, weight: the best tyres and reference models from our tests
How to find the right tyres
If you want to increase the performance of your bike, the tyres are the right place to start. The most frequently asked questions about tyres:
- Which tyre width should I use? If in doubt, go for a wider tyre. These tyres are slightly heavier than the narrower version, but that's about it in terms of disadvantages. Wider tyres are scientifically proven to roll more easily, can be ridden with less pressure with better puncture protection and also increase traction and therefore safety. Even in cross-country use, you should not go below a real 2.2 inch tyre. Caution: Tyres vary in width depending on the manufacturer.
- Which rubber compound makes sense? As the rear tyre carries significantly more weight than the front, even on flat terrain, rolling resistance plays a greater role here. To save power, opt for a tyre with a finer profile and a fast rubber compound at the rear. At the front, a stickier, grippy compound with more traction is easier to cope with and also ensures greater safety, especially in wet and loose ground conditions. For example, Schwalbe TrailStar at the front and PaceStar at the rear.
- Which tread do I need? As with the rubber compound, fast at the rear and grippy at the front is a very good compromise. You should only use finely profiled tyres or semi-slick tyres on the rear wheel. For steering and braking traction, the tyre on the front wheel must have a more open, more pronounced profile.
- How much air pressure is needed? As much as necessary, as little as possible, is the rule of thumb. As tyre pressure drops, rolling resistance decreases off-road, even on gravel roads. The rougher the surface, the more noticeable the slight rolling due to the low tyre pressure. The minimum tyre pressure that can be used depends on many factors. Only reduce the pressure to such an extent that the tyre does not buckle in bends or increase the risk of punctures. It is best to try it out for yourself in small steps. Wide rims give the tyre more stability.
- Tubeless, yes or no? The future is tubeless. The advantages of the tubeless alternative are obvious. Less weight, lower rolling resistance and better puncture protection speak in favour of converting to tubeless in conjunction with puncture protection. Most tyres (look out for tubeless-ready) are now prepared for this increasingly simple conversion.
You can find the entire article "Buying advice for tyres" (from BIKE 10/2014) as a free PDF download below.
