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That depends on what the route mix looks like. For predominantly road use and detours on fine gravel, 35 to 40 mm are ideal. The advantages of these relatively narrow gravel tyres are their acceptable aerodynamics, low weight and agile handling, close to that of a road bike. As soon as you go off-road, the widest tyre that fits the bike is the best. All gravel bikes accept 40 mm wide tyres, many also 45 mm; 50 mm tyres only fit in selected frames and forks. Some adventure bikes have even wider tyres. Some of them are even designed for real mountain bike tyres up to 60 mm wide (in the smaller 650 B diameter format).
Tyres that roll best on asphalt are those with a fast rubber compound and little to no tread. The fastest gravel tyres are very fast and on a par with decent road bike tyres. Width is not a significant factor when it comes to rolling resistance. With the right ingredients - fast rubber, short lugs - even voluminous tyres are very fast on asphalt, but they feel slower than narrower tyres due to their higher weight. On rough surfaces, the tyres that roll best are those that can be adjusted to the widest range of pressures - especially in the direction of low tyre pressure. In case of doubt, these are wider tyres that can be ridden at a correspondingly lower pressure. Soft lugs provide grip, but also increase rolling resistance off-road. However, soft ground causes the highest rolling resistance, as the ground is deformed instead of the tyre - the resistance then increases tenfold! The rubber compound then hardly plays a role. Narrower tyres with an open tread are specialists for mud - the good old 33 mm wide cross tyre bites through without floating.
Most gravel tyres are tubeless-ready, which means that they can be ridden without a tube and with sealant, as long as the rim is airtight (tubeless rim tape or closed rim base). A tubeless valve is then screwed to the rim and off you go. Tubeless makes sense for gravel riding. Although a TPU tube weighs no more than the sealing milk inside, tubeless works very well with large tyre volumes and low pressure. Less pressure, self-healing and minimal rolling resistance speak in favour of tubeless. The only disadvantage is that the milk dries out over time and has to be replaced every six months. Depending on the sealing of the tyre, it may also be necessary to pump it up a little between rides.
Gravel tyres need less air than many people think. Two bar is a good guideline for 45 mm tyres on mixed terrain. More pressure is only better on smooth roads. The aim is always to adjust the tyre so that it flexes as well as possible in order to adapt to the surface and absorb bumps - then it rolls easily, grips well and provides optimum comfort. The lower pressure limit is determined by two factors: the guidance quality of the front wheel in particular and the safety against punctures.
Both depend on riding style and rider weight - and on the width of the rim. The larger the inner rim dimension, the less pressure the tyre needs to safely implement steering commands. Due to the many factors involved, it is advisable to individually adjust the tyres by testing them on asphalt. The pressure is lowered - in tenths of a bar increments - until the tyre reacts stiffly to aggressive steering. The pressure is then increased by one or two tenths of a bar. An innovative method of always using the correct tyre pressure was demonstrated at the Gravel World Championships: Marianne Vos, winner of the women's race, rode the Gravaa system, which allows the tyre pressure to be adjusted while riding. Vos was able to tighten her tyres at the touch of a button before setting off.
The tyre tread becomes more important when the ground is loose or soft. If the tyres are mainly used on asphalt and fine gravel, slick tyres are generally sufficient. A better compromise, however, are low-profile or fine-profile tyres or shoulder stud slicks, which can at least bite when leaning. These tyres are the always-on compromise for all those who ride mixed terrain and want to be as fast as possible.
If the ground gets deeper, however, these tyres reach their limit and offer no grip. If you only have such passages in front of the handlebars from time to time, simply walk a few metres. If you want to master everything by riding, including mud, you need a coarser and deeper tread, especially uphill, but this always causes more rolling resistance on hard ground. Which way you turn the lug compromise is therefore a question of taste. There is no such thing as a tyre that can do everything perfectly.
In races in any case. The elite men's gravel world championships were ridden at a speed of 39 - on a predominantly fairly smooth surface. This is a speed at which aerodynamics dominate the riding resistance by a large margin. Aerodynamics are also a factor in slower races. The front surface of the tyre and its profile are aerodynamically effective. According to our measurements in the wind tunnel, this can be well concealed up to a width of 38 mm; the values are not far off those of racing tyres. This is why this format is the preferred width for racing use.
The air resistance increases with thicker cleats. Lugs are also an aerodynamic disadvantage. Recent efforts by the industry are aimed at achieving good aero performance with extra-wide rims, even with thick tyres, and development is clearly not yet at an end. Anyone who races just for fun is also affected by aerodynamic drag, but of course the topic is not as hot as in racing when there is no opponent.
Gravel tyres in tubeless set-up can take a beating. Compared to mountain bikes, the speed on rough tracks is more limited as there is usually no suspension on board. This also reduces the stress on tyres. Even on borderline coarse gravel, delicate gravel tyres survive at an appropriate speed. Minor defects are sealed by the milk. The fact that stones punch holes through the tread is a kinetic phenomenon and depends on the sharpness of the rock and the speed. Increasing leaks, which can be easily recognised by the escaping sealing milk, warn you to slow down or recommend a more heavily armoured tyre - the same game as in mountain biking. In our experience, the delicate tyre walls also suffer little damage when ridden moderately.
The new standard for gravel tyres and rims is currently an inner width of 25 mm, but development in this area is not over. The larger the inner dimension of the rim, the better the tyre is supported. Zipp already builds rims with an inner width of up to 32 mm in order to optimally integrate gravel tyres into the wheel aerodynamically. At the other end of the spectrum are traditional rims with an inner width of just 19 mm. The actual width of the tyre therefore depends on which wheel the tyre is mounted on. The nominal width stated on the tyre can be exceeded by several millimetres on wide rims.
The steering behaviour depends on the structure and shape of the tyre and can vary greatly. The tyre format also has an influence on the steering geometry. This is particularly noticeable when slimmer road tyres are used on a gravel bike. When changing from 45 mm to 32 mm wide tyres, the caster shrinks by 6 mm and the bike is correspondingly more agile - which is more suitable for use on the road.