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In the beginning there was the bike, but hardly any tyres to go with it: When the gravel bike tentatively manifested itself in 2015, the few manufacturers mostly used cross tyres or tyres for MTBs. This makes sense for some terrain. But not for a bike that should roll well on any surface. The German manufacturer Schwalbe (see interview) got in on the trend early on and can now present eight specific gravel tyres alongside its crossers. Then there was no stopping the segment. Virtually every manufacturer now has dedicated gravel tyres in its range. Here we present two tyre models from each of seven manufacturers - enough to make a selection that every gravel rider should be happy with on their preferred terrain.
It is true that the wider the tyre, the more grip it offers, the more comfort and even a tendency towards less rolling resistance. The weight increases slightly with the width, but the handling becomes increasingly sluggish - a 45mm tyre has nothing to do with the feeling of a racing bike on the handlebars. Anyone fitting much fatter tyres to their bike must take this into account. What counts beforehand, however, is whether there is enough clearance in the fork and rear triangle for the wider tyres.
The bike comes from the racer - so it seems logical that the weight of the tyre also plays a role. The tyres weigh between 380 and a good 500 grams for 28 inch and 40 mm wide tyres. In comparison: the long-running Schwalbe Marathon weighs around 750 grams as a 28-inch tyre with a width of 37 millimetres. Understandable: The race-oriented gravel tyres lead the lightweight scale. Of course, this is not achieved exclusively with high-tech, but also with less material. In other words, the race tyres do not have the highest puncture protection or the most robust tread.
The following applies to every type of tyre today: the compound, i.e. the recipe of the rubber, must master several challenges: it should also offer a lot of grip on asphalt, so it must also have a certain softness. On the other hand, it should offer low rolling resistance, i.e. run smoothly - this is not just a question of the arrangement and shape of the studs. And on top of that, it should not produce too much abrasion. In other words: It should last a long time. Tyre manufacturers now have these diametrically opposed requirements well under control.
Of course, other factors also influence the criteria mentioned, such as the carcass: This fabric keeps the tyre in shape and prevents it from expanding so much when inflated that it bursts. Have you ever ridden a tyre for too long? The white threads that then become visible are the carcass. Their fineness also determines how easily the tyre rolls. The denser the threads, the less the tyre flexes and the better it rolls. This is particularly relevant for road bike tyres. Simple road tyres only have around thirty TPI, gravel tyres often have around 67, while racers can have double the thread count and more.
The smoother a tyre, the easier it tends to run - even off-road. This is why race gravel tyres often have a smooth or barely profiled tread. For off-road cornering safety, manufacturers place blocks on the outside edges of the tread. Basically, the coarser and more angular these rubber blocks are, the better the tyre will hold on soft surfaces when cornering. If the ground is generally softer, the tyre also needs studs in the middle. The more surface area these have and the lower they are, the better the tyre runs on asphalt - and the worse off-road.
Currently, "tubeless" is trendy, and for good reason: A tyre with an inner tube will probably never deliver the smooth running and handling qualities of a tubeless tyre. What's more, tubeless tyres can be ridden with less pressure and therefore offer more comfort. Many bikers also swear by the fact that tubeless tyres are less prone to punctures.
There are three buts: Only tubeless sealant in the tyre ensures tightness. Unfortunately, it also makes a mess in the event of a puncture. If a tube has to be retracted, you get more than just your hands dirty.
The second but: If a hole is so large that the tyre sealant does not close it, there is the option of repairing it with a rubber plug - in addition to inserting a tube. These rubber plugs, also known as tyre sausages, are intended to seal the hole together with the sealant. However, experience has shown that these repairs are rarely permanent.
But number two follows: Tyre wear can be high under these conditions - and high-quality gravel tyres cost money. A rough estimate: For broad use and commuting, tubes should still be the right equipment, sporty gravel riders can also be happy without a tube. The alternative: rubber-free tubes made of TPU or similar materials. They are significantly lighter than classic butyl tubes and ensure less flexing of the tyre - but are around three times as expensive as conventional tubes and are usually difficult to patch permanently.
MYBIKE: What distinguishes gravel tyres from classic trekking tyres?
A gravel tyre has to overcome other challenges and is therefore much more complex. It has to be lighter and run smoothly despite its often coarser tread. The carcass is therefore more complex. Puncture protection is not achieved by using more rubber, as this would add too much weight; special puncture protection inserts are required. Depending on the area of use, a special tread pattern is also required that can cope with softer surfaces.
MYBIKE: And the difference to cross tyres?
We have an official limit of 33 millimetres - in UCI races the tyre must not be wider. In addition, we usually have a coarser profile here. Smooth running on tarmac, on the other hand, plays a subordinate role.
MYBIKE: For which applications are gravel tyres available?
Gravel is a matter of interpretation. A semi-slick tyre makes sense on well-developed forest and woodland paths, especially if a lot of road riding is involved. But our range also includes MTB-like trail tyres. With the Overland, we also have a robust and low-wear tyre in our range especially for bikepacking and commuting. There are now also tyres for gravel racing. Our G-One R, for example, has been given a road bike casing for this purpose, which makes it roll particularly smoothly and ensures low rolling resistance.
MYBIKE: Are there also differences in the rubber compound?
Yes, tyre manufacturers are now able to reconcile the three requirements of abrasion, rolling resistance and grip quite well with the compound - everyone has their own secret recipe.
MYBIKE: Which tyres are suitable for most situations?
Good compromises are tyres with a relatively dense tread, such as the G-One Allround and the G-One R. Such tyres are well suited for 50/50 road and forest trail use.
The Terra Trail is almost a classic among gravity bikes and is orientated towards gravel to forest ground, with puncture protection on board.
The Trail's brother can do almost everything that the Trail can do, but is a little faster; its small-profile might be a little shorter-lived.
The Rambler provides plenty of support on tarmac with its narrow centre lugs, while coarse side lugs can score points on forest floor bends.
Nothing for mud, plenty for tarmac and dry forest motorways: the Reaver is more of a fast occasional graveler.
Adventure is calling - the all-rounder scores particularly well on firm terrain and tarmac. Commuters can be well advised to use it.
All-round here too - with a greater focus on off-road terrain. Narrow mini lugs nevertheless ensure an easy ride on firm paths.
Racing tyre: The manufacturer promises easy directional stability, but plenty of grip in corners; if it gets muddy, it might reach its limits.
Pirelli recommends the tyre with an improved bead-to-bead protective layer for hard use. The focus here is particularly on speed.
Lowest rolling resistance in the Schwalbe Gravel range, with thick side lugs for cornering on soft terrain.
A real all-rounder that also makes a good impression as a trekking tyre and for commuters. Should score points on tarmac and firm dirt roads.
WTB all-rounders: Small, narrow lugs and strong side blocks try to ensure the best of both worlds.
Designed for speed: According to WTB, the finely blocked centre strip ensures speed on asphalt and dry forest tracks. No mud tyres.