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Who hasn't experienced it? A constant tingling in the little finger or the problem of individual fingers going completely numb on longer bike tours. Aching hands are part of everyday life for many cyclists and mountain bikers. But that doesn't have to be the case. We show you what you can do about numb fingers and pain in your hands and wrists - and how to find MTB handlebar grips that suit you.
Steering, braking and stopping are the most important tasks that an MTB grip must transfer from the rider to the bike. If you look at the handlebar grips purely from a visual point of view, you will quickly make a mistake. It's hard to believe how many details there are in such a small component. Handlebar grips differ in terms of structure, thickness, shape and clamping. If you pay attention to the following points, you are guaranteed to ride better.
In the video, we explain what makes good MTB grips and how ergonomic they can be.
Most current MTB grips are clamped on the inside of the handlebars. However, there are also so-called lock-on grips that have clamping rings at both ends. We recommend one-sided clamping on the inside. This not only extends the grip surface to the outside, but also prevents pressure points on the hard clamping ring. This makes it possible to "overgrip" the handle. 3 mm Allen screws are now standard, they turn out less quickly than the earlier 2 or 2.5 mm Allen screws. When tightening, the specified torque of usually 2 to 3 Nm should not be exceeded; carbon handlebars in particular react sensitively to excessive clamping forces.
To save weight, lightweight MTB grips (for race or marathon bikes, for example) usually come without clamps. Really light MTB grips are hardly heavier than a handful of popcorn and are usually made of foam. The lack of a clamp makes mounting more difficult. Here are our Tips for fitting and replacing MTB grips without clampsIf you spray the grip with alcohol-based solutions such as glass cleaner beforehand, it can be easily slid onto the handlebars. The alcohol evaporates quickly and the grip is firmly attached. Brake cleaner is not recommended here because it is aggressive and can attack the surfaces. Washing-up liquid often leaves a slippery film of grease on the handlebars and pure water or spit only dries slowly between the handlebars and the grip. Tips for removing: The best way to remove the bike grips is to use a syringe to distribute a little water between the grip and the handlebars. Then twist vigorously and pull off.
The thickness of the grip should be selected to match the size of your hand. If the grip is too thick, you will need more strength to hold the handlebars and your hands will tire more quickly. This can also lead to increased arm pump, because the rider then wants to grip the handlebars even tighter to increase control. If the grip is too thin, on the other hand, the fingers hit the balls of the hands and you can no longer grip the handlebars securely. A thicker grip usually has more rubber and can therefore absorb shocks better than a thin handlebar grip, which gives a more direct feel. Many manufacturers offer their grips in different sizes. Depending on the manufacturer, the right size and thickness can be determined using the glove size. SQlab, for example, uses the measurement between the crook of the thumb and the tip of the middle finger as a key figure to determine the right grip size.
Most grips are not simply round and smooth, but have some kind of structure. In particular, the waffle design on the underside, as found on many MTB grips, gives the fingers a good grip when descending and climbing. Lamellae or raised structures on the upper side help to absorb shocks better.
A bike grip with a so-called wing reduces the pressure on the hand because it distributes it over a larger area on the handlebars. A wing grip can also prevent the wrists from bending and nerves from being pinched. At the same time, however, it reduces grip security, which is why it is only suitable for trail use in mountain biking to a very limited extent. As a rule of thumb, the more technical the terrain, the rounder the grip should be.
All ergonomic MTB grips have one thing in common: they try to offer the hands more grip and a larger contact surface by means of bumps, corners or flattened areas. This distributes the pressure better on the handlebars, which can prevent pain. SQlab takes this to the next level with its 711 MTB Tech & Trail-The SQlab 711 grip is moulded to the tip to reduce pressure on the hands. The SQlab 711 grip is modelled down to the last detail and follows the shape of the fingers. The shape, which is specially adapted to the anatomy of the hands, increases the contact surface of the ball of the foot, but does not have any wings to get in the way. This means that SQlab's Ergo grips are fully suitable for off-road riding, provide a very secure grip and noticeably dampen impacts and vibrations. If the 711 grip is not round enough for you, you should take a look at the 7OX grip. It takes less getting used to, but is also ergonomically excellent.
Test rating:
You can download the detailed test of 20 MTB grips from three classes (ergonomic, race, trail) as a PDF for a fee below this article.
*BIKE measured values, the length indicates the usable area without clamping.
**The comfort value is made up of the pressure measurement (for Ergo grips), a Shore hardness measurement and the practical impression.
***The more strongly moulded the wing of a grip is, the less suitable it generally is for technical terrain.