Bike grips: Ergonomic or classic round? 20 MTB grips in the test - for race & trail
Stefan Frey
· 03.06.2024
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The other day I rode into town on a bike from the test fleet. Short appointment in the morning. Quickly adjusted the saddle. Checked the air pressure. Fits. But after just a few hundred metres, the grips were pressing into my palms to such an extent that I only held the handlebars with my thumb and forefinger for the rest of the ride - not entirely safe in the hustle and bustle of the city. From a purely visual point of view, the grip looked like a 1a Ergo model. Slightly raised under the palm, flattened underside. But the rubber was as hard as a wooden plank and the "ergonomic" tip turned out to be a torture tool for the nerve tracts in the carpal tunnel.
20 MTB grips in the test - Race, Trail & Ergo
To save you from aching hands on the tour, we have 20 MTB grips in three categories - Race, Trail and Ergo - in the test compared with each other. To do this, we not only measured the Shore hardness, i.e. the degree of hardness of the rubber, but also extensively tested all grips in practice for grip and comfort.
We also determined the pressure distribution of the ergonomic MTB grips using a pressure measurement film. This was provided to us by the saddle and grip specialists at SQlab. However, we carried out the measurements independently in our own laboratory. One finding in particular from previous tests was confirmed: Although grips with wings noticeably relieve pressure peaks from the hands, they are only suitable for technical terrain to a limited extent and are therefore an exception in the test field.
BIKE knowledge: What makes a good MTB grip?
If you only look at a bike grip for its appearance, you can easily make a mistake. It's hard to believe how many details there are in such a small component. Shape. Structure. Thickness. Clamping. If you pay attention to the following points, you are guaranteed to ride better.
Classic round or ergonomically shaped?
Simon Schumacher, grip developer at Ergon, also knows that ergonomics is a double-edged sword. The more ergonomically shaped a grip is, the more important it is to position it correctly, explains the expert. If the supportive surface is in the wrong place, in the worst case it will have the exact opposite effect and create new pressure points. With the new GXR race grip, the developers have therefore limited themselves to a light vase shape that mimics the shape of the closed hand. Schumacher knows that this cylindrical design is actually suitable for everyone.
And if you don't have problems with numb fingers or stinging palms, you can also choose a classic, round handle. But be careful: for the new grip to be really round, the thickness must match the size of your hand. Only then can the handlebars be gripped without pain and with little effort.
Got one on the waffle?
Most grips are not simply round and smooth, but have some kind of structure. In particular, the waffle design on the underside, as found on Lizard Skins, Odi or DMR, gives the fingers a good grip when descending and climbing. Lamellae or raised structures on the upper side help to absorb impacts better.
Without clamping
To save weight, race grips usually come without a clamp. This makes mounting more difficult. If you spray the grip with alcohol-based solutions such as glass cleaner beforehand, it can be easily slid onto the handlebars. The alcohol evaporates quickly and the grip is firmly attached. Brake cleaner is not recommended here because it is aggressive and can attack the surfaces. Washing-up liquid often leaves a slippery film of grease on the handlebars, and pure water or spit only dries slowly between the handlebars and the grip. The best way to get it down is to use a syringe to distribute a little water between the grip and handlebars. Then turn and pull vigorously.
With clamping
Most current grips are clamped on the inside of the handlebars. This not only extends the grip surface outwards, but also prevents pressure points on the hard clamping ring. This makes it possible to "overgrip" the handlebars. 3 mm Allen screws are now standard, and they turn out less quickly than the earlier 2 or 2.5 mm Allen screws. When tightening, the specified torque of usually 2 to 3 Nm should not be exceeded; carbon handlebars in particular react sensitively to excessive clamping forces.
The right thickness
The thickness of the grip should be selected to match the size of your hand. If the grip is too thick, you will need more strength to hold the handlebars and your hands will tire more quickly. If the grip is too thin, your fingers will hit the balls of your hands and you will no longer be able to grip the handlebars securely. A thicker grip usually also has more rubber and can therefore absorb shocks better than a thinner grip, which gives a more direct feel.
Ergo? Logical!
All ergo grips have one thing in common: they try to offer the hands more support and a larger contact surface by means of dents, corners or flattened areas. This distributes the pressure better on the handlebars, which can prevent pain. SQlab takes this to the extreme with its 711 grip. But Ergon and Ritchey also manage to reduce the pressure on the hands.
Wings
A grip with a so-called wing reduces the pressure even further and prevents the wrists from bending and nerves from being pinched. At the same time, however, it reduces grip security, which is why it is only suitable for trail use to a limited extent.
The 20 MTB grips from 3 classes in the test
Ergonomic MTB grips
- Ergon GE1 Evo
- ESI Grips Fit CR / Fit XC
- Reverse Seismic-Ergo
- Ritchey WCS Python Trail
- SQlab 711 MTB Tech & Trail
- XLC Ergonomic GR-S30
Lightweight race grips
MTB grips for trail bikers
- DMR Deathgrip
- Lizard Skins Machine
- ODI Elite Pro
- OURY V2 Lock-On
- Raceface Getta Grip
- Reverse Classic
- SDG Thrice Grip
- Spank Spike Grip
Stefan Frey
Editor
