1. the suspension dips heavily and often bottoms out.
The suspension is too soft. Increase the air pressure on air suspension struts. Increase the spring preload on steel struts. Caution: By adjusting the preload, the shock absorbers can only be adapted to the rider's weight to a limited extent. Too much compression worsens the response behaviour and increases the breakaway torque. Harder spring elements help here.
2. the suspension responds poorly, the suspension travel cannot be utilised.
The suspension is too firm for your body weight. Let some air out of the suspension strut or reduce the preload. If the spring is still too hard, change to a softer one. Another cause: compression too tight. Check both options.
3. the suspension dips further and further during fast, short strokes and comes out too slowly.
This phenomenon often occurs on washboard tracks, gravel and root trails. Cause: rebound damping too tight. Loosen the rebound damping adjustment screw slightly. The setting is correct if the bike absorbs fast impacts without becoming unsteady.
4. the chassis becomes unstable when travelling at speed. The tyres lose contact with the ground on long bumps.
The rebound damping is too soft, the suspension rebounds too quickly. Tighten the rebound damping further in small steps and ride this section of road again and again. The setting is optimal when the suspension is really stuck to the ground.
5. the suspension hardens, especially with short, fast strokes.
Compression too hard. If the shock absorber or fork has an adjustable compression stage, turn the adjustment screw further out. Otherwise: Change to a different shock absorber or send it to a shock absorber specialist.
6. while the rear end irons everything out, the front of the bike is hard and nervous.
This unbalanced riding behaviour occurs when the fork and rear triangle are poorly matched in terms of suspension travel and/or damping characteristics. Example: Elastomer fork with six centimetres of suspension travel, high-performance rear triangle with steel shock absorber and twelve centimetres of suspension travel.
Remedy: For many forks, there are long-travel kits for greater suspension travel. Installing steel springs in the fork can also help.
7. the chassis suddenly becomes unsteady at the rear and rocks.
The shock absorber is probably leaking. Check the suspension strut for traces of oil, especially on the piston rod. If you do not find any traces of oil, dismantle the shock absorber and remove the steel spring. Check the resistance of the shock absorber by pushing the piston rod back and forth. If there is hardly any resistance - take it to the workshop.
8. the bike feels spongy in corners, as if there is not enough air in the tyres.
These symptoms indicate excessive bearing play on the rear swing arm. Check the bearing play and have the bearings replaced if necessary.
9. the rear suspension or the fork no longer responds as sensitively as it used to.
The bearings in the fork or rear triangle are probably very dirty. Dismantle the shock and/or remove the suspension elements from the fork. Now move the rear triangle and/or the fork back and forth. If this movement only works with greater force, the bearings must be cleaned and greased.
Important: Follow the manufacturer's instructions for use!
You can find further instructions on repairs and the care and adjustment of your mountain bike in our guide "The ultimate bike workshop", which is available in the Delius Klasing Shop.
