Suspension forkBasic set-up

Tomek

 · 06.08.2007

Suspension fork: Basic set-upPhoto: Unbekannt
Suspension fork: Basic set-up
Have you got a new dream bike or finally got your new fork? Then the most important work still lies ahead of you. The suspension set-up must be right. If you ignore this, you will quickly lose the pleasure of your first ride.


THE SPRING HARDWARE

If the fork has a platform system for bob suppression,
switch it off first (reduce the Manitou pressure in the SPV chamber to 2.75 bar). Loosely attach a cable tie to one of the stanchions and slide it downwards. Sit carefully on the bike and assume the riding position (support yourself with your elbow on the wall). Now dismount and grab the measuring tape.

The negative suspension travel (Sag) is the distance from the lower edge of the cable tie to the upper edge of the dip tube seal. The negative suspension travel should account for around 15 per cent of the maximum stroke for marathon use. The rougher the terrain, the more important the negative travel becomes. For all-mountain bikes, we recommend 25 per cent. Now adjust the pressure in the main chamber until the sag is correct. For forks with a separate negative air chamber, refer to the manual for the appropriate positive air pressure. Then set the negative air pressure as explained above.


THE TRAIN LEVEL
This feature regulates the rebound speed of the front wheel after an obstacle. First turn the rebound and compression damping towards "undamped" and leave the platform switched off. Now close the rebound damping so that the fork no longer springs back after impulsive compression when stationary, but comes up just visibly slower. Try out this basic setting with slightly different settings on the home circuit. Caution: Too much rebound prevents the fork from following fast bumps.

bike/M3979127Photo: Unbekannt

If the fork emerges with a slight delay, the basic setting is correct.

THE PRINT STAGE

The compression damping cannot be adjusted on every fork and its influence is not easy to set when stationary. It regulates the compression speed. If it is too fast, the bike lifts off the ground after heavy impacts.

As a guide: The compression damping can remain open on long undulations. If the track is rough, with fast bumps: close it a little. Use the compression damping in moderation, only as much as necessary.

The compression damping is often misused to protect against bottoming out, which works but takes away comfort: it is better to adjust the spring rate. Some manufacturers regulate the suspension bob via the compression damping, also at the expense of comfort.
Photo: Unbekannt
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