Worried about your e-bike battery running out: 7 tips for extending your range

We’ve all been there, haven’t we? The ride is lovely, the scenery is flying by – but a glance at the display reveals the battery percentage dwindling. Range anxiety is one of the biggest things that spoils the fun of e-biking. The good news is that you don’t have to rush out and buy an expensive spare battery straight away to get further. With the right tricks, you can noticeably increase your e-bike’s range.

Here are the most effective tips for increasing your range – without compromising on driving comfort.

1. Choose your support levels wisely

Your number one tool for extending your range is the assistance level. E-bikes tempt you to whizz around in ‘Turbo’ or ‘Boost’ mode all the time. It’s fun, but it drastically shortens your ride. That’s because you’re left with less time to climb the altitude yourself. The basic rules: on flat stretches, use Eco or Tour mode – or switch the motor off completely. Only switch to high assistance when it’s really needed – such as on steep climbs or in strong headwinds. Progressive assistance levels, which link the motor’s power even more closely to the rider’s effort, also lead to greater range. This is because they encourage the rider to pedal with more commitment. The motor only provides strong assistance when the rider is also pedalling hard.

Something to bear in mind: the e-bike is a hybrid system. Rider and motor work together to provide propulsion – and thus also determine the range. The worst-case scenario is this: the rider simply lets their legs go limp, whilst the motor burns through its power in turbo mode.

2. Changing gears correctly: The secret to the ideal cadence

The most common mistake when riding an e-bike? Setting off in too high a gear with a low cadence. At that moment, the motor has to work extremely hard, which uses up a huge amount of power. Even when going uphill, you should help the motor along by maintaining a higher cadence and pedalling smoothly. Most motors run most efficiently between 70 and 85 rpm. Also: shift down to a lower gear in good time before coming to a stop to make it easier for the motor to get going again.

​3. Drive with foresight: if you brake, you waste energy

Constant braking and re-acceleration consume an enormous amount of energy. A smooth, anticipatory driving style not only reduces wear on the brakes but also conserves the battery. This is also something to bear in mind when planning your route, as a seemingly insignificant journey through city traffic can drain the battery surprisingly quickly if the turbo has to kick in to accelerate through stop-and-go traffic. Tips: Make the most of your momentum on gentle downhill sections. Roll slowly towards red lights or junctions, rather than slamming on the brakes and having to accelerate from a standstill again. If you’ve got the leg strength: when accelerating, it’s better to use only gentle assistance.

4. The tyre dilemma: minimising rolling resistance?

Choosing the right tyres is a tricky business. It depends crucially on the type of bike. This is because, on tarmac and at high speeds, rolling resistance and tyre pressure have a significant impact on an e-bike’s range. In these cases, a fast tyre is worth it, and running the tyres too low can pay off. This applies particularly to e-road bikes, e-gravel bikes and urban bikes. But be careful: the rule for tyre pressure is NOT ‘the higher, the better’. With road and gravel bikes in particular, it’s worth taking a close look at the ideal tyre pressure. This depends on many factors, such as tyre width, rider weight and the surface.

Off-road, prioritising low rolling resistance can backfire completely. Even on coarse gravel, the ability to roll over obstacles and grip are more important than rolling resistance alone. Tyre pressure that is too high makes it harder to roll over obstacles and wastes energy. The same applies to wheel spin when the tyre spins freely. The more extreme the terrain, the more crucial it is to have a tyre with good grip – which you can only achieve with the correct, rather low tyre pressure. If you ride uphill safely and without slipping, you’ll ultimately have a greater range.

5. Jettison ballast & take aerodynamics into account

Aerodynamics and weight are two key factors in cycling. They also affect the range of an e-bike. It’s important to understand that air resistance becomes increasingly significant as speed increases – and quite drastically so. Road cyclists whizzing across flat terrain at 45 km/h can make up a great deal of ground here. At 25 km/h on an e-bike, the impact is already significantly lower. And at a moderate pace on an incline, the impact is then almost negligible. So: anyone who likes to push past the 25 km/h mark on flat sections (e.g. on an e-road or e-gravel bike) should make sure they wear close-fitting clothing and adopt an aerodynamic riding position. Flapping jackets act like a brake parachute.

When tackling steep hills on an e-mountain bike, weight is the deciding factor. However, saving 500 grams on your kit won’t work any miracles for your range. So, for the sake of battery life, you shouldn’t leave your rain jacket behind. Unnecessary kit, however, can happily stay at home if the ride pushes the battery to its limits.

The relevant factor is the total weight comprising the rider, the bike and the luggage. So don’t be surprised if your riding partner’s energy consumption turns out to be completely different. Weight differences of 20, 30 or even 50 kilos make a huge difference on mountain rides! On flat terrain, however, the difference is less pronounced, as the extra weight only really costs energy during acceleration.

6. Using technology wisely

You don’t always need an expensive, heavy spare battery to tackle extra-long rides. If you’re planning a lunch break at a mountain hut or in a beer garden anyway, a charger can top up your depleted battery. Depending on the charger, you can make considerable progress in as little as 1.5 hours. But be careful: it’s best to check in advance whether charging is actually possible at your break stop. The differences in charging speeds can be quite significant. Investing in a fast charger can be worthwhile if you regularly use this tactic.

For groups, there’s another clever way to extend your range – provided you’re all using the same motor and battery system. If there are significant differences in weight or fitness levels, sharing a battery can be a good idea. A heavier rider swaps their battery early on (when the charge level reaches 50 per cent at the latest) for a lighter rider’s battery. This way, the charge levels deplete evenly overall, and you avoid a situation where, on the final hill, the heavier rider is left with an empty battery whilst the lighter rider still has plenty of power to spare.

7. Look after your battery properly (especially in winter!)

The chemistry of a lithium-ion battery does not cope well with either extreme heat or cold. At temperatures below 10 °C, the battery’s performance drops temporarily. In winter: Always store and charge the battery at room temperature. Only fit it to the bike shortly before setting off. If the battery is left out in the frost overnight and is to be used for a ride whilst still cold, trouble is bound to ensue.