All topics in this travel report:
Mountain biking in Scotland
Balmoral, the place where the Queen died not so long ago, lies over the next hill. "And over there," says guide Marc, his finger travelling a little further towards Loch Muick, "Depeche Mode recorded Enjoy the Silence." One generation immediately has the soundtrack for the day in their ears - and Dave Gahan dressed as the Little Prince in front of their eyes. The next generation frowns. "Dave who?"
From the Royals to Depeche Mode - the wild bridge between the two basically summarises the scenery we are currently cycling through quite well. The eastern foothills of the Cairngorms Mountains are wide and open, rugged and mystical. There is a touch of melancholy about this barren heathland - and a storm of freedom. The north of Scotland is sparsely populated and leaves plenty of space, especially for the Bavarian soul, which is plagued by user pressure. Enjoy the silence.
Sheep, distilleries, castles, a cottage here and there and lots and lots of nature lay on the way to our starting point near Ballater, directly on the Dee (next to the Don, the central river artery in Aberdeenshire). Strong gusts of wind blow through the low scrub and simply don't want to give us a tailwind. The 500 metre ascent through the barren landscape up to Craig Vallich is gentle, almost meditative. It ends with a spectacular ridge ride to one of the most iconic trails in the north of Scotland: Heartbreak Ridge.
There are numerous well-staged legends that disappoint in reality. But the Heartbreak Ridge is real and honest. A crazy, five-kilometre-long ridge ride over bare, grippy granite rock - once exhilaratingly fast and fun, then tricky and steep, before heading back into the pine forest on the Dee to hook up. After the downswing, the hand moves to the left chest to check - heartbroken? Your heart does indeed ache a little as you say goodbye ...
Also in Scotland: legalisation of trails
All the more reason for us to thank trail builder Tom Cole. After severe storms, the team from the Aberdeenshire Trail Association made Heartbreak Ridge rideable again in spring 2021 "... and in the process dragged as much stone as the slaves once did when building pyramids". The 37-year-old is basically an example of a bike wave that has been spreading across the entire country from the south of Scotland in recent years: the mountain bike is not only becoming increasingly important as a piece of sports equipment, but also as a symbol of social transformation. Scotland is looking ahead, wants to break away from its dependence on the oil and energy industry, wants to create a high quality of life, bring people back to the countryside and develop new, sustainable models for the future. Mountain biking was recognised years ago as playing an important role in this process, and the state is correspondingly willing to promote the sport.
What began in the Tweed Valley in the south with the famous 7Stanes Trail Centres spread into the Highlands and covers the country with a dense network of the most varied trails and offers. "Aberdeenshire," explains Tom, "was still the blind spot on the MTB map for a long time. We had lots and lots of trails all over the place, but they were mostly challenging routes. Often they weren't really well laid out and everything was basically without a system." For a good five years now, the "unauthorised" network has been rapidly authorised and professionalised, catering and accommodation have been adapted to the new guests and events and camps have been set up. The Scottish scene now makes pilgrimages here from the north-west and the south.
Tom was still an engineer in the oil industry when he co-founded the Aberdeenshire Trail Association in 2018. Of course, it was his dream to work in the bike industry. He knew it from Whistler, where he worked as a bike guide for a while. But in Aberdeenshire? As a volunteer, he spoke to the landowners and the forest, trained in sustainable trail building, generated funding - and was eventually approached by one of Scotland's leading trail building companies to join them. Today he is Lead Trail Designer at CRC. Successful transformation.
One of his major projects is the first proper trail centre in Aberdeenshire: the Tarland Trails Pittenderich. Around 850000 euros in funding from the state, foundations and associations are being invested in the rapidly growing, colourful network of trails - everything from blue to black is included. Just under 20 kilometres from Ballater and Balmoral, the hilly landscape here is softer, gentler and also more wooded - and the ground has an almost spooky consistency. No matter how muddy the access roads are from the night's rain, the fun Jumpline Crowd Surfin' (including a playful uphill trail) has a dry grip. A dream for warming up.
One of the first completed highlights is the Scaletrix, aptly named after a British carrera track manufacturer. The route winds its way through the forest until it suddenly opens up and catapults us out into the open heathland slopes criss-crossed by countless berms. The Tarland Trails are already a wonderful place to lose yourself. Tom smiles and points up to the flanks of Pittenderich, where you can make out small excavators here and there, "and we're still growing".
There are numerous reasons for Scotland's rapid rise to become one of Europe's dream MTB destinations. The manageable number of inhabitants and landowners is one. The lower section of the Tarland Trails is owned by a non-profit organisation, the upper section by a "super nice" person. Of course, the discussions are not always easy, says Tom, "but basically the landowners are happy that we approach them with solutions." In Scotland - unlike in England - the "right to roam" prevails. You are allowed to roam freely in the countryside as long as you do so respectfully and responsibly.
Developing Mountain Biking in Scotland
The basis for success, however, lies in the close co-operation between mountain bikers and all those involved. Developing Mountain Biking in Scotland - a sub-organisation of British Cycling - promotes exchange and cooperation with tourism professionals, the forestry industry, landowners, universities and the Scottish government. Everyone is involved, everyone pulls together and everyone has a holistic understanding of the sport's mission: not only trail building and infrastructure are supported, but also health and social projects.
Getting more people on bikes is a common goal in Scotland that is being realised on a broad front. The funding is seen as an investment in the country's future. And comes, for example, from the foundation of an oil tycoon: Sir Ian Wood, one of the richest men in the UK. He comes from Aberdeen and made billions from oil before setting up The Wood Foundation in 2007 and since then has been specifically committed to the sustainable diversification of the country - above all to breaking away from traditional industries. And bicycles are playing no insignificant role in this process of change.
For the finale of the Aberdeenshire Trail Tour, we head a few kilometres further south to Aboyne - and it's set to be an extremely tasty finale: Chutney and relish are the names of the two freshly prepared trails that whirl us through the forest. Over and over again. The Chutney begins with fast, rocky sections before the trees get closer and closer, demanding agile slalom skills. The Relish follows on directly and lets us take off again and again. "Uplifting," says Tom. It really is. In the midst of this lonely, rugged landscape, the biking mood is at its peak.
Insider tip Aberdeenshire - all information about the MTB spot
Location Aberdeenshire
The Aberdeenshire region is located on the north-east coast of Scotland, with its capital Aberdeen around 200 kilometres north of Edinburgh. In the hinterland, between the rivers Dee and Don, there are countless trail spots such as Pitfichie, Aboyne, Tarland and the Cairngorms National Park.
Accommodation
- It's hard to find a more original place to stay: The Boat Inn in Aboyne is a classic, quaint pub with stone walls, a fireplace and sugar-sweet rooms. Rather unusual: the food is excellent - and the breakfast is even better.
- The Cairngorm Lodges near Aboyne are log cabins in the middle of the forest near Aboyne.
- Garry and Joyce Welsh offer a classic (and thoroughly luxurious) British BnB in their Edwardian stone house Lys Na Greyne.
- Campers will find various pitches such as directly on the Dee
MTB-Guiding
Chris Roper has worked as a guide all over the world, but is now one of the driving forces behind MTB in his home country. He not only knows the trails from riding them, but is also involved in their construction and maintenance. Info on his guided tours: Ride in Peace, Glenkindie
Hire & Shuttle
- Bike hire in Ballater
- Any kind of shuttle offers Bothies & Bannocks in Aboyne
More info
Attention entry: Since Brexit, you need a valid passport to enter the UK again! Further information about the area: Aberdeenshiretrail, Tarlandtrails, Dmbins, Visitabdn
Interview: Will Clark, Development Manager at Developing Mountain Biking in Scotland
Why should you go mountain biking in Aberdeenshire? Local Will Clarke from the Co-operation Development Manager at Developing Mountain Biking in Scotland has a few arguments at the ready.
BIKE: Will, what kind of mountain bikers should come to Aberdeen?
Will Clarke: If you like riding on nature trails - we have some of the best enduro trails in the UK here. But in general it's very varied. You can also see that in the colourful local scene. For example, we have a lot of women bikers - one of our trail builders, Fee Wallace, was recognised as Trail Advocate Of The Year by IMBA 2022. We also have a strong kids and junior scene.
What will surprise those coming to Aberdeenshire for the first time?
How lively our bike scene is and how uncomplicated and friendly the people are. What's more, our trails are beautifully embedded in the landscape - from soft forest soil to grippy granite rock.
Which trails should you definitely have ridden?
Phew, very difficult. Our two main valleys, Deeside and Donside, are very diverse. My favourites are probably Tomb Steen in Pitfichie, a rocky enduro trail, and our icon: Heartbreak Ridge in Ballater.
Where do you stop off?
Aboyne and Banchory are strategically located and offer accommodation, restaurants, cafés and pubs. Many mountain bikers can be found at the Ride Café in Banchory, the Spider on a Bicycle in Aboyne or The Grant Arms in Monymusk.
What should you definitely do in Aberdeenshire before travelling again?
Eat and drink a lot. Aberdeenshire has some top whisky and gin distilleries such as the Lost Loch Distillery near Aboyne - and the many seaside villages have excellent fish. Then there's Dunottar Castle near Stonehaven and, of course, the royal summer residence at Balmoral.
World Cup spot Fort William
The downhillers will kick off the cycling world championships on the legendary course on Ben Nevis. The course starts at the summit station of Aonach Mòr and is one of the longest and most spectacular World Cup descents of all. In addition to the two very challenging trails, there has now finally been a blue, i.e. easy, trail for two years. At eight kilometres, this Blue Doon is one of the longest flow trails in the UK. There are also trail centre loops and big mountain excursions in the surrounding hillsides. Enduro pro Joe Barnes gives us 5 insider tips on the individual spots.
1 - Fort William is made for mountain bikers who ...
... like it steep, muddy, rocky and rooty. They are definitely in the right place here - we really don't need to shy away from global comparison. But even if Fort William doesn't have the reputation, there is still an enormous range of trail options here - there is definitely something for the whole family.
2 - What is probably surprising is that ...
... the town itself is actually not very big. We have around 5000 inhabitants. But the whole thing explodes during the World Cup weekends, with 22,000 spectators lining the course. For the World Championships in August, there will certainly be a lot more. What you should also know: We are surrounded by mountains and water. And the locals aren't that horrible. You should be prepared to have fun.
3 - Trails that you should definitely ride ...
... are, for example, the many muddy, super narrow trails around the Nevis Range Trail Centre. They're really fun. Especially the Top Chief - it was named after me, and that's a great honour because the trail is really brilliant. There are also incredible big mountain tours all around. The Mamores mountain range near Kinlochleven is simply incredible. There is so much adventure lurking there. You often have to carry your bike, but the ridge ride on Binnein Mòr (the highest peak) is unimaginable, as spectacular as this trail is. The whole tour is worth the effort. I promise.
4 - You should definitely stop off at ...
... Sammy's fish and chip shop. And on the beach at Caol in the north you can get very good fish with a very nice view. Of course, there are also lots of good cafés, but my expertise is clearly limited to fish and chips.
5 - A must before you leave Fort William ...
Wet your trousers on the steep, really steep trails, eat fish & chips at Sammy's and take a dip in one of the mountain rivers.
MTB-Spot Glentress: Marathon / Cross Country
The CC and marathon competitions (incl. e-MTB) will be held in the Tweed Valley (World Championship dates MTB Marathon 6 August, Cross Country 9-12 August 2023). Glentress Forest, located less than 50 kilometres south of Edinburgh near Peebles, is one of the birthplaces of Scottish trail centre culture as part of the 7Stanes network. There are now over 80 kilometres of built trails here. Loops of all colours and lengths, from simple green 3 km routes to technical, black laps of almost 30 km in length and 80 percent singletrack.
1 - Glentress is made for mountain bikers who ...
... like variety: there are challenging enduro trails, as well as plenty of options for families, such as the Berm-Baby-Berm circuit. The variety also makes it the most popular and busiest trail centre in Scotland - and TweedLove, the largest bike festival in the UK, takes place here.
2 - What is probably surprising is that ...
... there is a perfect infrastructure and a strong sense of community. Mountain bikers are an integral part of the region - the Tweed Valley is also known as "The Valley of the People". In addition to the dense trail network, there is a skills area, bike shop, bike hire, showers and shuttle options. Glentress is also home to the Mountain Bike Centre of Scotland, an innovation centre run by Edinburgh Napier University. Research is carried out here on topics relating to bike sports, such as product development for local brands.
3 - Trails that you should definitely ride?
All of them. In addition to the built routes, there are also many natural trails. The Blue Route has already been crowned the best flowline in the UK. And the Red Route is one of the classics par excellence: 18 kilometres with technical climbs, surfy berms and countless rollers - especially on the legendary Spooky Wood section. And in the course of the world championships, a few more trails (of all levels of difficulty) are currently being created.
4 - You should definitely stop off at the ...
... Glentress Peel Café in the heart of the trail centre: excellent coffee, very good food and a relaxed atmosphere. All this is also available at No1 Peebles Road, and the Traquair Arms is a great place to go in the evening.
5 - You should definitely do this in the Tweed Valley before travelling again:
A gin tour at the 1881 Distillery is a must here. You also have to shoot through the forest on the zip line, go to music night at the Neidpath Inn and visit the brewery in Traquair House (built in 1109!).
The 7 best spots in Scotland
Almost every place in the country has its own trail circuit. But a road trip to the most important Scottish bike spots alone takes two weeks. Here is our suggested route. The exciting thing: Each trail centre - even if they are sometimes only ten kilometres apart (7Stanes) - has a completely different character. You pay a £3 parking fee at the centres (which is used to build the trail), then simply follow the trail signs. Overnight stay: The country roads (left-hand traffic!) pass many private properties with bed & breakfasts.
1 7Stanes:
This is where it all began in Scotland: the eight top trail centres in the south of Edinburgh: Innerleithen, Glentress, Forest of Ae, Mabie, Dalbeattie, Kirroughtree, Glentrool and Newcastleton are the names of the spots, each just ten kilometres apart.
Our favourites:
- Innerleithen with four selective downhill lines including shuttle and a 19 kilometre long, very varied, moderately difficult CC circuit over the Minch-Moor summit.
- Glentress: The family trail centre with the largest trail network for all requirements, including bike shop, café, hire and showers.
- Kirroughtree also offers all levels of difficulty. The black trail loop (31 km) includes the Mc Moab granite rock test of courage.
2 Fort William:
World Cup downhill on the Ben Nevis massif, Scotland's highest peak (1345 m): there are reasons why even downhill racers have respect for this route. Even for the red and black descent (approx. 5 km) you need good nerves and skills. But you will want to take a selfie in the famous starter hut. Tip: First buy a single ticket for the lift, soak up the spirit in the car park and café and take a lap on the equally challenging trail centre laps.
3 Laggan Wolftrax:
The locals call this spot on the edge of the Cairngorm National Park "Rocky Goodness". Steep descents on huge rock slabs, but also flow laps for cruising (total: 32 km). Also great: the Laggan Brown trails opposite and those in Aviemore.
4 Inverness:
The Mast is the name of the local hotspot just outside Inverness. On the map, you will find the mountain with the striking transmitter mast under the name Craig Dunain. Its really steep flanks are interspersed with medium to very tough enduro lines. Attention: no trail centre, you can find the tracks on Strava.
5 Golspie:
Scotland's most northerly trail spot on the Dornoch Firth estuary with far-reaching views over the North Sea: the Highland Wildcat trails are a little off the beaten track, but offer the country's longest freeride descent (13.6 km) on Ben Bhraggie and brand new (easy) lines on two other peaks. There are also two flowy uphill trails and a sandy beach for swimming afterwards.
6 Aberdeenshire:
The new trail centre on the east coast - the perfect end to a road trip: just built in autumn, this large trail centre north of Edinburgh is already being celebrated as a superstar: great scenery with lots of panoramic views and uphill, downhill and CC trails (Heartbreak Ridge, Drumtochty, Pitfichy, Tarland etc.) spread over the hills.
7 Torridon:
Adventure trails in the Highlands: A trip on the nature trails of the Scottish Highlands is a must. The scenery around Torridon on the west coast, in particular, literally blows you away. However, you should also be able to handle the rocky and bouldery trails. For experts only!
Interview with Trudy Lindblaade, UCI World Championships
As CEO of the 2023 UCI Cycling World Championships, Trudy Lindblade is in charge of the biggest cycling event in history. What will the new World Championship format bring?
BIKE: Trudy, what makes the World Cycling Championships in Scotland so special?
Trudy Lindblade: For the first time, all cycling disciplines (with the exception of cyclocross) will be held at the same time and in the same place. This will make the World Championships the biggest cycling event in history. In Scotland, we are creating a blueprint for a new world championship format that will take place every four years. And I can promise you that it will be a fantastic mega-event.
That sounds like high ambitions!
Absolutely! We want to showcase and celebrate cycling in all its diversity - from BMX to artistic cycling, from the velodrome in Glasgow to the downhill track in Fort William. We are spreading the competitions across Scotland and engaging the community. This type of World Championships is a first, so we can rethink things and do things differently. The fact that we have always worked closely with the locals on cycling issues is now paying off.
Sounds like a lot of coordination work. What do you hope to gain from this great commitment?
The bicycle plays such an important role in our society. It stands for freedom, for movement, for mobility, for fun. This World Championship will be extremely tangible, and we have planned a great supporting programme. We also want to inspire those who have perhaps not yet discovered the bicycle for themselves. The investments have always focused on the aftermath: the World Cup trails in Glentress will live on, the Facility Fund has been used to build pump tracks, among other things, and cycling promotion programmes have been initiated throughout the country.
