1. noise only occurs when pedalling
If the noise only occurs when pedalling, all parts of the drive system are possible, but also the wheels, frame, seat post, saddle and handlebars - all connections through which power flows.
Drive standing up. Once the noise is gone, first concentrate on the saddle and seat post
Test the handlebars and stem when stationary. Stand over the bike and put alternating pressure on the handlebars. If the noise increases, concentrate on the handlebar/stem/fork steerer connection. The steering head bearing is also a possibility.
Test the chainring bolts. Are all screws tight? If not - retighten.
Pedal check. Lubricate and tighten the thread. Does it keep cracking? Then change pedals and shoes.
Exclude the rear wheel as a source of noise. Replace the rear wheel. Grease the axle/quick release and tighten firmly.
Is it still cracking? Then inspect the thoroughly cleaned frame for cracks. For aluminium frames: Check the weld seams.
Now it's time for the details. Shifting eyes like to crack - follow the Instructions.
Pull off the cranks. This is usually done using a hexagon socket. Also check the bearings: Does everything turn easily and smoothly?
Remove the bolted bearing shells. Then clean, lubricate, reinsert and tighten properly (requires special tools).
Remove the chainring bolts. Clean and grease the screws and threads, then reinsert them. Read how to remove, clean and grease direct mount blades (Sram) here.
2. noise also occurs when rolling quietly
Ride standing up again. If the cracking then stops, check the saddle and seat post (Instructions).
Brakes squeal. Apply the brakes lightly alternately at the front and rear. Once the squealing is gone, the pads (Instructions).
Check the rear triangle. Joints and damper mountings are sources of noise during compression. Roll slowly while stationary, consciously and clearly compress and listen. Test the joints individually (Instructions).
Does it only creak when steering? Then check the shift cable sheaths.
An interview with the bike whisperer: Georg Bucher, inventor of the carbon assembly paste
BIKE: How did the idea for the carbon assembly paste come about?
GEORG BUCHER: I was given a frame as a present for my fortieth birthday and then rode a Transalp with it. It rained on the first day and from then on it cracked incessantly, which spoilt the fun somewhat. It was on that tour that I started thinking about a product that would minimise cracking noises.
What was cracking back then?
The connection between stem and handlebars.
What happened after the Knack tour?
Together with lubricant experts, I developed the recipe for a paste that increases the friction between components to be clamped.
What's in this recipe?
The basis is a grease that hardly lubricates at all. Added plastic particles ensure friction.
Can this carbon assembly paste also be used for metal parts?
Yes, it works in the same way. But you should really only treat clamp connections with it. The friction is also increased with threaded connections. An aluminium bottom bracket shell can hardly be loosened when treated in this way.
Do you have an insider tip for causes of cracking that are difficult to find?
Two, in fact. Firstly: the spacers under the stem - you often don't think about them, but they can also cause trouble. I recommend lubricating grease so that the spacers can move when the steerer tube flexes. And then I once had a rear wheel hub into which the bearings had been pressed dry. After I had re-inserted them with grease, everything was quiet.
You can find this article in BIKE 12/2018. You can read the entire digital edition in the BIKE app (iTunes and Google Play) or the print edition in the DK shop reorder - while stocks last:
