Wear protection is the most important task of a lubricant. This is followed by other parameters such as creep resistance, corrosion protection - and, in the bicycle sector, dirt adhesion. We are currently developing a test with which we can map lubrication performance, i.e. friction reduction.
A base oil is always used as the carrier medium. Depending on what properties the chain oil should then have, it is enriched with different additives. These can be, for example, anti-wear or anti-corrosion additives - or substances that are applied to the chain and have a friction-reducing effect.
There is no rule of thumb for this. There are quite simple chain oils that may consist of three or four components. However, more complex oils may well consist of nine to ten substances.
Both substances minimise friction and thus protect against wear. Wax, on the other hand, does not necessarily have to minimise wear.
There are two directions: Classic oil lubrication guarantees a good long-term effect. Oil-based lubricants continue to flow between the chain links. Dry lubrication, on the other hand, guarantees minimal dirt adhesion. Dirt on the chain increases wear enormously. Although hardly anything sticks to the dry film, it can easily be pushed away on contact between the chain and sprocket and then no longer builds up. Metal then rubs against metal. I have to add dry lubricant much more often.
If you compare the dropper bottle and aerosol (spray, editor's note), the latter shows better creep behaviour. However, if the propellant is allowed to escape before application, the effect is relativised. However, the inaccessible areas of a chain are manageable. Therefore, the creep behaviour of most dropper bottles is completely sufficient.
Dry lubricants should always be reapplied after long rides in the rain, at least every 150 kilometres. Chain oils generally have significantly longer lubrication intervals.

Editor