Preparation: the tool
Centre lateral run-out
1. inventory Check the tension by pressing two crossing spokes together and, above all, check whether and where your wheel is running out of round. Major knocks are often difficult to rectify.
2. tighten the spokes If the lateral runout is localised in the wheel, increase the tension of the affected spokes (turn the nipple anti-clockwise), which are on the opposite (!) side of the runout.
3. loosen the spokes On the other hand, loosen the spokes that are on the side of the rim flange (turn the nipple clockwise) to allow the rim to align itself in the centre.
4. control Repeat the tightening and loosening of the affected spokes alternately until the rim is centred again. Tip: Work your way slowly with quarter turns on both sides.
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Repairing broken spokes
1. prepare the wheel Before repairing a broken spoke, the tyre, rim tape, brake disc and, in the case of rear wheels, the cassette must be removed to facilitate the repair.
2.
Remove old spoke Pull both parts of the old spoke out of the wheel. The old spoke nipple can be reused under certain circumstances, but if it is corroded, we recommend a new one.
3.
Feed spoke Insert a new spoke of the correct length into the empty hole in the hub. Make sure that the spoke head is facing in the same direction as before.
4.
Thread the spoke Thread the spare spoke through the wheel to the hole in the rim. Both spokes should touch at the last crossing. Use the intact spokes as a guide.
5.
Insert nipple Screw the rear end of the spoke nipple to a loose spoke. This makes it easy to insert the nipple into the spoke hole and screw it to the actual replacement spoke.
6. tighten nipple Once the nipple has been tightened slightly and the auxiliary spoke removed, you can use a screwdriver to preload the spoke before you start centring.
Tips from a professional
■ What do I do if the spoke rotates when the nipple is tightened?
The connection between spoke and nipple often hardens due to corrosion or dirt so that it is no longer flexible when centring. A drop of penetrating oil on the nipple before tightening the spoke can help, otherwise you have to hold the spoke with flat pliers when centring.
■ My spokes are constantly coming loose, what can I do about it?
If the spokes on the wheel are constantly coming loose, you can apply linseed oil or special spoke glue (e.g. DT Swiss Spoke Freeze) before the next tightening. Then tighten the spokes and allow the glue to harden or the oil to resinify. This should normally help.
■ My wheel has a massive radial runout, how do I fix this?
In principle, this is similar to lateral run-out by loosening and tightening the correct spokes. With deformed rims, however, there is often nothing you can do except replace the rim. In the case of radial run-out, it is also easy to lose track of the situation, so it is better to get help from a professional.
Spokes lexicon
A broken spoke can mean the end of your tour, unless you have the right replacement with you. But which spoke do you need? Here are the most important key data:
Conventional spokes have a normal 90-degree angle at the end of the spoke. Spoke head. System wheels (with straight-pull hubs) from DT Swiss, for example, use a straight hammerhead.
Spoke nipple are available in various lengths made of aluminium or brass. Make sure that the thread and nipple length match your spare spoke. The front wheel and rear wheel have different Spoke lengths. Measure from the head of the spoke to the end of the thread.
System wheels from Mavic or Fulcrum have Special spokeswhich are often difficult to obtain.
Dented rims
1. remove tyres Before you can pull the dent out of the rim, you should remove the wheel and remove the tyre and inner tube.
2. dent the rim Prepare a pair of pliers with adhesive tape to avoid scratching the rim unnecessarily. Place the taped pliers on the dented area and slowly pull the rim flange straight. Caution: If too much pressure is applied, part of the rim may break off. Work with feeling.
3. deburr sharp edges Once the rim flange is straight again, you should break sharp edges with a small file so as not to damage the tyre later. In most cases, the rim is even tubeless-compatible again after the operation.
