In this article, we use so-called affiliate links. With every purchase through these links, we receive a commission from the merchant. All relevant referral links are marked with . Learn more.
Actually, we all know that lubricating the chain regularly is a must. The fact that it often takes longer for oil to drip onto the thirsty chain plates doesn't make things any easier: good chain oil keeps the links running because it separates friction partners that would otherwise divert valuable pedalling power. And the squeaking of a chain running dry is not a pleasant soundtrack for travelling.
In order to determine the best lubrication for the chain, 18 all-round lubricants had to undergo an extensive laboratory test. We also asked whether special wet or dry oils perform better or whether a wax can replace the oil. For this purpose, we ran two products from each manufacturer: Hanseline chain oil was pitted against the chain wax from the same company, while WD-40 Dry had to defend itself against WD-40 Wet. The dreaded wear of a chain occurs between the roller and pin as well as on the connecting side plates. The better the chain oil succeeds in separating the friction partners from each other, the higher its lubricity. However, in order to do its job reliably, the lubricant must first be able to penetrate the chain.
To achieve this, the lubrication must be easy and uncomplicated to apply, absorb well and, in the best case, be able to creep out again quickly. It should not make the chain and sprocket sticky on the outside and should not be washed off immediately by splash water. The balance of its additives determines what a lubricant can do. The crux of the matter is that some of these properties cannibalise each other. For example, there is a similar incompatibility between high-pressure and anti-wear particles as there is between rust protection and creep-promoting substances. The trick is to create a balanced product from ingredients with partly contradictory properties.
A technically optimised lubricant is one thing, its correct application is another. The rule is: clean the chain before lubricating. The best way to do this is to crank the chain backwards through a cloth moistened with cleaning petrol until there is no more significant abrasion. Chainrings, sprockets and derailleur pulleys should also be free of coarse dirt.
When applying the lubricant, small dropper bottles, as offered by most manufacturers in the test, have a clear advantage. This allows every drop to be placed precisely on the inside of the chain. Sprays have the disadvantage of misting, which means that brake discs and pads are also quickly affected. Depending on their viscosity, some products drip through the chain links like water. More viscous oils are more effective: they can be dispensed in a controlled manner, adhere better and are absorbed smoothly.
Even if some manufacturers label their products as organic: The issue of environmental compatibility is barely defined and is difficult to distinguish from pure marketing promises. To prevent unnecessary amounts of lubricant being released into the environment, the oil should be left to work for at least one hour before driving off. The excess should be wiped off with a cloth. Only then can you start your tour perfectly lubricated. Without creaking, without squeaking. After all, the best soundtrack is the quiet whirring of fast tyres on asphalt.
- Sonax silicone chain care oil
- Tunap Sports Chain Oil Ultimate
- Wash'n Roll organic drive oil
- WD-40 Bike Chain Oil Dry
- Weldtite Sport chain fluid
- Zéfal Chain Wax
You can conveniently download the complete comparative test of the lubricants, including all test results and individual evaluations, as a PDF below the article. The test costs 1.99 euros.
Why not free of charge? Because quality journalism has a price. In return, we guarantee independence and objectivity. This applies in particular to the tests in MYBIKE. We don't pay for them, but the opposite is the case: we charge for them, several thousand euros every year.
