How to find the right e-mountainbike

Stephan Ottmar

 · 31.07.2017

How to find the right e-mountainbikePhoto: Markus Greber
How to find the right e-mountainbike
Everyone is talking about e-mountain bikes and the season is already in full swing - two important reasons why you shouldn't put off your purchase decision for too long. E-bikes go fast.


Fully or hardtail?

Unlike a classic mountain bike, there are few arguments in favour of a hardtail on an E-MTB. There is hardly any relief at the rear, every bump rumbles unfiltered into the body (high unsprung mass). Basically, there are only two arguments in favour of dispensing with rear suspension. Firstly: the range of use. If you mostly ride on cycle paths and moderate forest tracks and not on trails, a hardtail will get you by. However, if you want comfort, riding dynamics and safety, there's no getting round a fully. Secondlythe price. Hardtails are about a grand cheaper than fullys.


Centre or hub motor?

Good centre of gravity, high riding dynamics - the mid-engine has become established for off-road use. This moves the bike's centre of gravity to the centre and downwards. The additional weight is not located in the unsprung mass of the rear wheel, as is the case with hub motors. This improves the riding dynamics. In addition to the internal gearbox of the centre motors, the gears also transmit the drive power. This has a positive effect on energy consumption and heat development. The downside is the increased chain and drive wear. The current market leader is Bosch, followed by Shimano, Brose and Yamaha. The most commonly used hub motor comes from BionX.

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Tyres: thick is the trump card?

The requirements in terms of wear, puncture resistance and traction are significantly higher for e-MTBs than for classic bikes. Rolling resistance, on the other hand, plays a subordinate role. Thick, coarsely profiled tyres with a stable sidewall are the trump card. Cheaper bikes in particular are often fitted with tyres that are far too light (less than 2.1 inches, with a weak tread). It is best to negotiate a replacement tyre at the time of purchase. The 27.5 plus size has proven to be ideal for E MTBs. These tyres work best in the 2.6 or 2.8 inch sizes, but require special wheels with the so-called Boost standard.

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How much suspension travel?

More suspension travel provides safety and comfort. You don't really need to be stingy with suspension travel, especially on an E-MTB. As you usually ride in a seated position anyway, there are no problems with suspension bobbing. And loss of power is also not an issue thanks to the motor power. Suspension travel between 140 and 160 millimetres is ideal for off-road use. You only need more travel for extreme applications. And, of course, more suspension travel costs money. The same applies to hardtails: 120 millimetres is better than 100. Look out for air suspension elements with adjustable damping, especially on these inexpensive bikes.


How much does the fun cost?

3500 euros is the lowest limit for a decent fully with decent suspension, good components, stable wheels and a dropper post. If you don't need this and make compromises here and there, you might be able to get away with €3000. However, full-suspension e-MTBs are not recommended for anything less. The best price/performance ratio is offered by bikes in the price range between 4500 and 5000 euros. Hardtails start much earlier: the sound barrier is around €2000.


APPLICATION AREAS AND PRICE CATEGORIES

Whether you will be happy with your bike depends not only on your available budget. Above all, you need to ask yourself where and how you ride. Because the area of use determines which geometry and how much suspension travel suits you.


Hardtails

In the world of purely muscle-powered mountain bikes, hardtails are still very important. Every ounce of muscle power and every gram of material counts here. Cross-country and marathon races are still won on hardtails. The E-MTB is different. The lack of rear suspension saves weight here too, but with a total weight of around 20 kilos, one or two kilos are hardly noticeable. For purists who want to do without suspension, there are hardtails of all kinds starting at just under € 2000. The cheaper models usually have comfortable, upright geometries and are therefore more suitable for comfortable cruising on cycle paths and forest tracks. In the higher price ranges, you will find models that are based on classic race hardtails. With little suspension travel at the front, a stretched, sporty geometry and weights of well under 20 kilos.


Up to 2500 euros: E-MTBs in this price range are built for comfort-orientated, less athletically ambitious riders. The geometries are therefore rather short and upright. The quality of the components and forks are more at entry-level.


2500 - 3500 Euro: The bikes in this price group have large batteries and solid equipment. You get a lot of bike for your money here, and the quality of the components is perfectly acceptable. You hardly need more.


Over 3500 euros: If you want to spend over 3500 euros on a hardtail, we recommend a fully. The riding pleasure is significantly higher, even if the bike is only ridden on dirt tracks.

  Category HARDTAILSPhoto: Markus Greber Category HARDTAILS


All-mountain fullys

The term all-mountain encompasses classic e-touring bikes for moderate to technically demanding terrain. Manufacturers now offer a wide range of different types of bikes that cater for different rider requirements. Until now, long wheelbases and chainstays have ensured extremely smooth running and stability, coupled with excellent climbing characteristics. A proven concept for beginners and touring riders. The new drivetrains from Shimano and Co. will give manufacturers more conceptual freedom in the alignment of geometries in the 2017 model year. As a result, genuine, manoeuvrable trail bikes have recently found their way into the E-MTB camp. At the moment, however, these are still labelled as all-mountain bikes. The suspension travel of this largest of all E-MTB categories ranges between 120 and 150 millimetres.


Up to 2500 euros: If you come across a Fully for this price, it is a reduced super bargain. If not, you'd better keep your hands off it. You can't build a solid bike for this price.


2500-4000 Euro: In the race for the entry-level class of full-suspension all-mountain e-bikes, the manufacturers are fighting fierce battles for position. For us, the fun starts at 3500 euros. Find out more in the comparison test starting on page 44.


Over 4000 euros: In this price category, you get a lot of E-MTB for your money. Powerful suspension, top components and a dropper seat post are all part of the package here. There are also sensible wheels with decent tyres for the right terrain. Most bikes above the 4000 euro class roll on thick plus tyres.

  ALL-MOUNTAIN-FULLYS categoryPhoto: Markus Greber ALL-MOUNTAIN-FULLYS category


Enduro fullys

Bikes with suspension travel of around 160 millimetres are generally referred to as enduro bikes. This categorisation also applies to e-MTBs with certain restrictions. The geometry is crucial: enduro bikes focus on downhill performance. Flat steering angles, potent suspension and compact frames for maximum freedom of movement for the rider over the bike are common. Standard bikes with this focus tend to be sluggish on the climbs due to their higher weight alone. This problem is solved with an e-drive. E-MTB enduro bikes are therefore ideal for touring bikers who like to take things a little more sportily downhill.

  ENDURO-FULLYS categoryPhoto: Markus Greber ENDURO-FULLYS category


THE ENGINE MAKES IT

Does it make sense to make the decision to buy a bike dependent on the drivetrain? Yes and no. At least some buyers attach great importance to features that are not found in every drive unit.

Shimano's entry into the e-MTB market marks the end of Bosch's undisputed dominance. The market shares of Brose, Yamaha and Co. are rather small. Generally speaking, all of the common units work well. The details and components, which vary greatly depending on the rider's requirements, are where things get interesting. Take navigation, for example: there are fans of large navigation displays, while others prefer a clean handlebar and are guided by voice prompts from their smartphone.

  BoschPhoto: Markus Greber Bosch

If you also take your bike into rough terrain, you will be pleased to have a powerful and ergonomic push aid for unrideable passages. In all these individual points, the manufacturers' interpretations differ greatly in some cases. The issue of power is also important: From our point of view, more power is better than less, as any drive can reduce the level of assistance. With Bosch, make sure that the most powerful version of the drive is in the frame - the Performance CX. You can find detailed information on all available drives in our large

Online comparison test at: www.emtb-magazin.de


Integration: Batteries often sit as blocks on the down tubes of the bikes. Some manufacturers now offer visually appealing solutions. A very harmonious integration is achieved with Brose drives, e.g. Bulls, Rotwild and Specialized, and creative bike designers also find individual solutions for Bosch, such as Cannondale, Lapierre and Moustache.


Inner resistance: The idea of running out of juice on the road is pure horror for many e-bikers. And rightly so, because some drives have a very high internal resistance, which - in addition to the extra weight of the bike - really pushes up the power requirement. That doesn't have to be the case: Brose and TQ-Systems decouple their drives, while Bosch units tend to perform poorly here. Shimano's new Steps E8000 is in the midfield here.


Performance: For cruising and relaxed touring, the drive power can be reduced in all systems using the drive mode. If you enjoy steep ramps in rocky or rooty terrain, you will be happy to have plenty of extra power. An important question with E-MTBs is: Is the power available over a wide cadence range? Bosch and TQ do this best.


Reach height: The key question before every tour: Can I do it with a battery? With the highest support level, the bikes literally fly towards the summit. But after a maximum of 1400 metres, a 500 Wh battery is the end of the road. Just under 2000 metres are possible if you select the lowest support level. (Measured values with a rider weight of 80 kilos and 130 watts of power).


Reloading: Refuelling an e-bike takes 3-5 hours, so it's hardly possible on a day trip. However, there are also pitfalls lurking at home. The batteries cannot be removed from some bikes (e.g. Rotwild), and if there is no socket in the garage, things get complicated. However, most systems offer the option of charging in the frame or removing the battery with the key.


Weight: On tour, the weight of the bike is particularly noticeable when pushing and carrying it, but the effect on the handling remains surprisingly low. E-fullys usually weigh between 21 and 23 kilos. The lightest bike tested so far was the carbon hardtail Cube Elite Hybrid, weighing 17 kilos for 6000 euros.


Bosch Performance

We can confidently describe the drive as state of the art. It has been on the market for a long time and everyone can cope with it. Look out for the CX suffix, which guarantees that you have the powerful version on your bike. The Active version is weaker.
+ Powerful drive
+ Sensible switching steps
+ Compact battery
- High pedalling resistance
- Starting uphill
- Large installation space

  BoschPhoto: Markus Greber Bosch


Brose

The drive provides very harmonious and unobtrusive support. The tuning is excellent and the noise level is low. The main criticism is the weak maximum support, especially at high cadence.
+ Space-saving design
+ Low noise emission
+ No pedalling resistance
- Low maximum force
- Weak push assistance
- Pulsating pedalling feel with low pedal force

  BrosePhoto: Markus Greber Brose


Panasonic Multispeed

Currently only available from Flyer. The drive has an internal two-speed gearbox. The maximum power is high, but deteriorates with increasing cadence. Excellent starting behaviour on steep and loose surfaces.
+ Gentle response
+ Good performance
+ Large gear spread
- Low elasticity
- High weight
- Weak push assistance

  Panasonic MultispeedPhoto: Markus Greber Panasonic Multispeed


Shimano Steps

The version for mountain bikes is called E8000 and offers many great features. For example, it can be coupled with the Di2 electronic shifting system and has a powerful push assist. In terms of performance, it is at a high level, only the comfort is still lacking.
+ Compact design
+ Good driving modes
+ Powerful pushing aid
+ Good display
- On-off jerking
- Abrupt switch-off

  Shimano StepsPhoto: Markus Greber Shimano Steps


TQ-Systems TQ120s

Unfortunately, the powerhouse among e-bike drives has hardly had any market significance to date. Only M1 Sporttechnik uses it. The drive is well tuned and delivers endless power and torque in stage five.
+ High performance
+ No pedalling resistance
+ Small installation space
+ Many driving modes
- Hardly available until now
- High weight

  TQ-Systems TQ1205Photo: Markus Greber TQ-Systems TQ1205


Yamaha PW-X

Haibike in their Sduro series and Giant (as Syncdrive) in particular rely on the tried and tested Japanese motor. With its harmonious tuning, the drive delivers great comfort. Unfortunately, it runs out of power as the cadence increases.
+ High comfort
+ Gentle response
+ Light
- Low elasticity
- Support levels
- Fiddly operation

  Yamaha PW-XPhoto: Markus Greber Yamaha PW-X


ANOTHER QUESTION? WE ANSWER:

Budget, area of application, engine - have you decided? If you still have a few questions on your mind, you may find what you're looking for here. And when it comes to making a concrete purchase decision, our Comparative tests.


25 or 45 km/h?

Simply put: Pedelecs 25 are bicycles and Pedelecs 45 are motor vehicles. Only bicycles may be used on all routes that are not explicitly prohibited. Anyone riding a pedelec 45 must observe the following: Cycle paths are taboo, as are hiking and mountain trails. The blood alcohol limit applies and you must wear a helmet and licence plate. In EMTB, we therefore test almost exclusively bikes in the Pedelec 25 class.


Tyre size

Almost all current bikes roll on 27.5-inch or 29-inch wheels. For e-bikes, the Plus format has established itself for tyres with a rim diameter of 27.5 inches. Voluminous tyres should sit on wide rims. The advantage: more grip, fewer punctures and comfortable rolling behaviour. A reinforced carcass always makes sense for e-MTBs, regardless of whether they are plus or 29-inch tyres.

  Which tyre size is right for me?Photo: Daniel Simon Which tyre size is right for me?


Battery capacity?

The capacity of the battery is proportional to the range. With 300 watt hours, you can only cover half the distance of a 600 Wh battery. If you only do short laps, you can save money here. Because the batteries are expensive. Bosch and Shimano charge 859 and 699 euros respectively for an additional 500 Wh battery. If you want to go on day tours, there is no getting round the second battery. Otherwise the tour will be over sooner than expected. Pedalling uphill with an empty battery is no fun.

  Battery capacity - an important factorPhoto: Markus Greber Battery capacity - an important factor


Translation of

The trend is towards single chainrings on the cranks - and that's a good thing. Multiple chainrings cause problems when shifting. The front gear change takes too long and there is a high risk of damage to the drivetrain because the change is undefined. Manufacturers now supply cassettes with a gradation of 11 to 48 teeth on the rear wheel. In combination with a chainring with 38 teeth, for example, this offers an excellent gear spread - even for steep ramps. The advantages are obvious: shifting is easier and wear is reduced. Fewer parts are required because there are no derailleur levers and cables. Bosch motors require small special chainrings due to the internal gearing. These are often too large as standard (16 teeth and more). The aftermarket offers mini sprockets with up to 13 teeth.


Frame height

The stride length is particularly useful for estimating the frame size. Stand barefoot with your back to the wall, legs slightly open. Pull a spirit level or a book upwards on your crotch until you feel a noticeable pressure. Now measure the distance between the floor and the top edge of the spirit level. It's easier if someone helps you with this. Multiply the value determined by 0.547 to obtain the frame size in centimetres. However, this is no substitute for a test ride. If in doubt, it is better to choose the smaller size for an e-MTB. This is because you often ride with a slightly lowered saddle on technically steep uphill sections anyway. Detailed information at www.bike-magazin.de - Webcode #37249

  Get help for a more accurate result. Measuring on your own often becomes a gymnastic exercise and therefore inaccurate.Photo: Georg Grieshaber Get help for a more accurate result. Measuring on your own often becomes a gymnastic exercise and therefore inaccurate.


Tuning

On hills, the 25 km/h limit is hardly noticeable, whereas on flat terrain, almost every e-biker wants a later cut-off. The market offers illegal tuning kits for most drives, but we advise against them: the practical risk is high. In the event of a routine check, you could have your driving licence revoked for driving without a licence, or worse in the event of an accident with personal injury. We also have moral concerns: today we are allowed to ride our bikes legally on paths through the countryside that we share with other athletes. Excessive speeds lead to trouble.


Second hand?

Due to the galloping development of recent years, the technology is quickly becoming obsolete. In addition, demand is high and supply is low, which is driving up prices. This is why we currently advise against buying second-hand. Unless you know the previous owner and have negotiating skills.

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