1. handlebars that are too narrow: more control through width
At the beginning of the 1990s, MTB handlebars were barely wider than 600 millimetres. Why? It was believed that good aerodynamics were more important than maximum control. Perhaps this was also due to the downhill trails of the time. They were not very technical, but they were fast. It's amazing that nobody thought of fitting wide handlebars like those used in motocross back then. But that's the way it is. For decades, skiers hopped through deep snow slopes on narrow slats and struggled. Until the industry made skis twice as wide just a few years ago.
Today, handlebars are 760 to 800 millimetres wide, whether for trail bikes, enduro bikes or downhillers. Because width brings control. Control brings safety. Bikers of all skill levels benefit from this. Is there such a thing as too wide? Yes. It gets unwieldy over 800 millimetres. If you want to try out old-school tricks like the X-Up, you'll dislocate your shoulders. The handlebar width depends on the width of your shoulders and your personal preference. Riding technique expert Stefan Herrmann recommends: "Better too wide than too narrow. Try it out and shorten the handlebars in small steps until you reach your optimum width!" The handlebars should be wide enough to prevent your wrists from bending sideways.
2. stem too long: the right stem length
Only the OGs (old guys) among us know what old mountain bikes feel like. Back then you could hardly see the front wheel, it was covered by the stem. What works for racing bikes will also work for mountain bikers, thought the bike companies in the 1980s and 90s. And that's why we had to struggle with long bones. They measured up to 120 millimetres (!) and were designed to position the biker nice and far forward so that they could put pressure on the front wheel on the uphill and climb to the summit like a cogwheel train. The fact that the centre of gravity shifted unfavourably on the descent and spoiled the steering characteristics was apparently accepted. It stayed that way for a long time.
At first, clever freeriders realised that bike control could be significantly improved with shorter stems. You no longer steered "around the fork", but steered more directly. Wider handlebars fit better on short stems, and so one thing led to another. Although a short stem steers more directly, it is also more nervous. To compensate for the poorer smoothness, bike manufacturers lengthen the reach. Suddenly, we have the modern geometries of today.
And what about the spacers? Short stems shift the centre of gravity to the rear. The result: less pressure on the front wheel. You can counteract this: Take the spacers out. This allows the stem to slide further down and you get more pressure on the front wheel. Our tip: Try a short stem. So 35 millimetres. And check how many spacers are underneath. If it's a whole tower, then get rid of it. Paired with a wide handlebar and tight grips, you won't recognise your bike.
3. continue flat: the correct behaviour
Shredded through the verge, caught a stone: flat tyre. We've all been there. We also all know that, especially in these cases, we don't have a damn spare tube with us - let alone a rubber sausage that you can press into your tubeless tyre. So: push all the way down to the valley and waste valuable time, or ride down gently on the rim like Aaron Gwin in Leogang in 2014? No, don't do it. The risk of destroying them is too great. Because no matter how careful you are and how far you lean forward, aluminium rims quickly become dented and carbon rims can't handle stones at all.
Not-Tip: If the puncture happens directly below the summit cross and the descent takes forever, stuff grass and moss into the tyres to make a "cushcore for the poor".
4. braking iron on iron: changing brake pads
It was just there and then it's gone: the brake pad. What to do? If you continue braking, the braking performance is miserable. Because metal on metal has a nasty coefficient of friction. Even worse: you destroy the brake disc. Brake pads are like the MOT on a car: once it's expired, it's expensive - and you need a new MOT or new brake pads to boot.
So it's better to check the brake pads before you set off and always take a few fresh ones with you. They don't cost much, don't weigh much, are quick to change and always guarantee full braking power instead of nasty squealing.
5. loose headset: adjust the headset correctly
Defect number 1 in FREERIDE testing: loose headsets. The result: less control and you destroy the bearings when you don't even realise it. Better: tighten them quickly! Check the bearing play in the headset by pulling the front brake and placing your other hand on the junction of the fork and head tube. Now move the bike forwards and backwards a little. If you feel any play, first loosen the clamping bolts on the stem or the triple clamp bolts on a DH fork.) Then tighten the bolt in the Ahead cap until you can no longer feel any play, but the handlebars can still be moved easily. Then retighten all the previously loosened clamping screws (preferably to the correct torque). All this takes no more than a few minutes - and off you go!
6. do not maintain the chain: the lubricated drive
Along with flat tyres and warts on your backside, broken chains are one of those things you simply can't have. Chains usually break because you have not looked after them or have looked after them incorrectly. If you carry out the following three simple steps regularly, your chain will last a long time - we guarantee it! If the chain breaks anyway, a multi-tool with a riveting tool and a chain lock will help you on the trail. Push a link out of the chain, insert a chain lock and tighten it. That's it! A chain lock is cheap and you can stow it almost anywhere. It saves your bike day. If you don't have one with you, small cable ties or the pressed-out rivet pin from the shortened chain can also help. You can use these to connect the chain ends together. However, these are only emergency solutions.
CLEAN: Clean the chain with chain/drive cleaner, a brush, a cloth and water. Under no circumstances should you use brake cleaner. This will flush the grease out of the joints and cause the chain to break.
OILING: Lubricate the inside of the clean and dry chain while turning the crank back. Then shift through all gears a few times to distribute the oil.
PULL OFF: Before the next ride, wipe off the excess oil with a cloth to avoid attracting unnecessary dirt.
If you're out and about in the bike park, you can of course shred all day without a chain. Aaron Gwin even won a World Cup without a chain. In 2015 in Leogang. Be sure to watch!
7. too much pressure: the correct tyre pressure
Most people press far too much air into their tyres. This ruins their riding performance. A tyre that is too inflated has hardly any grip, as it adapts poorly to the surface. The tyre then feels slippery and wooden. Too much pressure also increases rolling resistance off-road - yes, you read that right! Some manufacturers specify crazy pressures. Conti, for example, 3-4 bar. Tyre pressure is like the weather: it depends on many factors. The tyre pressure depends on body weight, the area of use, tyre and rim width, tubeless or inner tube use and personal preferences. The aim is to achieve the best balance between grip, riding stability and puncture protection. With low air pressure, stability decreases, especially when cornering, the tyre flexes and the risk of punctures increases.
What to do? As a guideline, we recommend 1.2 at the front and 1.4 at the rear for enduro use with a body weight of 70 kilos. For park use, we increase this to 1.6 at the front and 1.8 at the rear. Smart: Schwalbe, for example, has a tyre pressure calculator on the company website. It spits out good values. The rule of thumb for tyre pressure is: as low as possible without risking punctures. With tubeless systems, you can generally use 0.3 bar less pressure.
8. too slow rebound: the right suspension setup
For some, suspension adjustment is pure science, for others it's mumbo-jumbo. But only with the right setting will you have maximum fun on your bike. A common mistake is setting the rebound damping too slowly. The rebound regulates how quickly the shock rebounds. If it is too slow, the rear end sinks further and further into the suspension travel on fast hits. The suspension becomes harsh and the bike feels bumpy on fast hits.
How to find the right rebound: Set the rear shock to the open position. Support yourself with your entire body weight on the saddle and compress the rear triangle. Now let go suddenly so that the rear triangle can rebound freely. The rear triangle should rebound so quickly that the tyre does not lift off the ground. The same principle applies to the fork. For fine tuning, try out the effects of the rebound click by click on the trail. Pro tip from German downhill series champion Markus Klausmann: "It's better to set the rebound - both at the front and rear - a little faster than too slow. This makes the suspension livelier, poppier and better able to cope with fast impacts, such as those from braking waves and root fields." As the rear end can rebound faster, the bike behaves more actively, especially on jumps. Caution: You have to get used to the fast setting first!
9. rear derailleur loose: adjust the derailleur quickly
On the first descent everything is still fine, but then the chain suddenly starts to jump and doesn't stay on the sprocket when you start pedalling. Annoying! What's going on? It's not always a fault. Especially in the bike park, the rear derailleur tends to shake loose. Here are three problems that in most cases you can fix on the spot and with little effort.
ATTENTION: If all else fails, a worn chain or a bent rear derailleur could be the reason for a jumping chain. Then you'd better go to the workshop.
10. replacing helmets too early: the durability myth
"Helmets should be replaced after five years at the latest", recommends the German Cyclists' Association. Most manufacturers also state that helmets should be replaced every five years.
We wanted to know: Does the protective effect of a helmet really deteriorate after five years? "No," says Christiane Reckter, test engineer at TÜV Rheinland.
To prove this statement, we carried out a crash test. We checked a 15-year-old helmet for shock absorption. In the standardised test, the helmet achieved values comparable to those of a brand-new helmet of the same model. So if you treat and store your helmet carefully, you can wear it for much longer. The only exceptions: After falls and in the event of damage, the helmet must always be replaced, regardless of whether it is new or old.
