"Gravel road bikes are a kind of hybrid between a crosser and a road racing bike and are supposedly all the rage in North America," reported the Tour less than ten years ago. According to one narrative, one of the reasons for the emergence, or at least for the further evolution of the bicycle in the direction of a "fast bike for all surfaces", was the American road system: in many US states, asphalt suitable for racing bikes is only available on highways. On small connecting roads, gravel reigns supreme - and that means gravel in English.
Gravel biking: A still short history
This genuine all-road bike is a kind of hybrid between a racing bike, cyclocross bike and mountain bike. But there was also a real, actual predecessor - if you can count it as such: the monster cross bike, as some forges put on mountain bike tyres at the end of the noughties. A mixture of road bike performance and off-road capability - on tyres that were significantly wider than cross tyres. As mountain bikes were experiencing a trend towards 29-inch tyres at around the same time, the makers of monster crossers were able to fall back on corresponding rubber. A lot of tyre clearance in the frame was a prerequisite for the bike, which must have looked strangely disproportionate at the time.
The American pioneer Salsa Cycles launched its Fargo in 2008, a concrete forerunner of the gravel bike. Back then, it was still called an adventure bike. With very wide 29-inch tyres, the bike was intended to be suitable for both long-distance races and off-road riding. As a true adventure bike, it already had many mounting eyelets for racks, bottle cages and the first bolt-on panniers. Speaking of which, today it sometimes seems as if the number of eyelets on gravel bikes is a sign of the bike's suitability for adventure and the owner's thirst for adventure. A bike with such a dotted frame and fork triggers an urge for freedom and adventure like cargo trousers trigger the desire to go hiking. And of course there is something to it in the proverbial sense...
Disc brakes bring change to gravel biking
Even though many cross fans were already riding their racers on the road early on - after all, they offered more stable components and, with the 33-millimetre tyres from cross sport, also significantly more comfort than the classic 20-millimetre-wide road tyres of the time - there was one decisive development that was needed for the crosser to become a gravel bike as we know it: the disc brake, with which the Salsa, for example, was already available. Perhaps the biggest shortcoming of the crosser was that the canti brakes on the narrow rims were, to put it mildly, something for professionals.
Difficult to adjust, takes some getting used to, challenging to maintain, very unreliable in wet and dirty conditions. With the transfer of disc brakes from MTB and trekking bikes to gravel bikes, this bike really became socially acceptable. Great modulation and high braking power were now possible, paving the way for gravel bikes to reach a wide range of users. Perhaps the bike was already an echo of the "call for freedom and adventure", which has become increasingly popular in recent years and was perhaps not heard by the cross-country MTB.
And what exactly is a gravel bike?
Simple answer: A bike with a drop bar and 35 to around 55 centimetre wide tyres, with a tread pattern ranging from "only small studs on the edges" to MTB, medium-coarse. The geometry is usually somewhere between a road bike and a sporty trekking bike, as is the riding position. As far as drop bars or racing handlebars are concerned, the gravel bike has made a decisive contribution to its diversification, which could hardly have been imagined ten years ago. For example, the handlebar ends range from "not at all" to so far outwards, i.e. flared, that the wrists may feel reminded of a Dutch bike when gripping them.
The height difference between the two grip positions on the handlebars varies from a few centimetres between the upper and lower handlebars to twelve or more centimetres - typical racing handlebar dimensions. The brakes are always disc brakes, usually with a 160 disc diameter. Hydraulic brakes prevail almost everywhere, with only some entry-level models using purely mechanical brakes or a combination of both systems.
Of course, the frames have also undergone changes: Cross frames, which had been little changed for years, were not the design template for the new gravel bikes for long. Soon, independent developments were made and, in addition to robustness, provided for even more rear wheel travel and more comfort through specially moulded seat tubes and rear stays. Of course, the rapidly increasing number of eyelets on bikepacking orientated bikes also led to their increased use and thus the trend towards greater robustness of the frame and the fork as a whole.
But I like it a bit deeper in nature. It's much quieter, but can be just as intense - and I work on my riding technique. - Steffi (44) does a lot of sport: weight training, running, swimming. Her gravel season: autumn/winter.
The details are crucial
Rondo launched an all-roader with adjustable geometry back in 2016. The Ruut, which is still available today, was not only a compromise between road and off-road, but could also be adapted to different terrains: the ability to change the position of the front axle made it possible to achieve smoother or livelier handling, as well as raising the bottom bracket. Hermaphrodites such as suspension and even full-suspension gravel bikes are emerging and are competing with MTBs on some trails. Uphill too, by the way: crosser ratios were soon added to old aluminium and ever shorter ratios were adapted from the MTB sector.
A 50-tooth life ring on the rear wheel is often seen today. And a gear reduction, which is the term used when the chainring is smaller than the largest sprocket - for example 42 to 44 teeth - is standard. Incidentally, single gears are becoming increasingly popular on gravel bike all-rounders and classic adventure bikes in particular; the front derailleur and the second chainring are no longer required. However, this does not necessarily mean that twelve gears (from Shimano and Sram) or 13 gears (Campagnolo) are the norm: The Powershift hub from Classified is increasingly to be found in the high-price range. An encapsulated two-speed drivetrain in the rear hub that replaces the small chainring at the front. Its advantages on gravel bikes with roughly the same system weight: maintenance-free, easy shifting and shifting under load.
Various bikepacking systems
At the beginning of the bikepacking era, bags were generally attached using Velcro or straps, but nowadays there are also solutions with eyelets on the frame and screws for attaching the bags in many places. Many manufacturers now offer eyelets, especially on the top and down tubes as well as on the fork bars. Advantage: The bags are easy and (theft) safe to attach. Disadvantage: They are often rather expensive special solutions. However, the basic rule is: whatever you like is allowed. A gravel bike with lots of bags creates a real adventure atmosphere.
More thrust on gravel
But now motorise the gravel bike and put an "E-" on it? Of course! The electrification of gravel bikes makes sense for many people: Thanks to mostly small, lightweight motor systems, there is relatively little additional weight, so the e-gravel bike largely retains the light handling of the bike without a motor. However, the assistance is on hand if the climb is too steep or too long. In contrast to the classic e-bike, the motor is usually only used when necessary. This is a great option, especially for bikepacking tours with extra luggage. Many manufacturers also offer battery packs for the bottle cage for longer tours.
Gravel biking: Who is it for?
Like the current range of models, the range of applications is huge. Commuter racers, sporty everyday bikes, long-distance racers, adventure touring bikes... there are even race gravelers for the races that have been popping up on the gravel for the last two or three years. But getting started is easier than with almost any other type of bike: just start graveling and fine-tune your style if necessary.
I came to gravel cycling via commuting. That was no fun with a road bike in terms of luggage and bad roads. I wanted something more flexible, even for bad roads. - Fabian Desalvo (40) used to be a pure racing cyclist. In fact, he now rides 23 kilometres to the office on his gravel bike as training.
Getting started for newbies
A touch of daredevilry without having to be a hooligan with big MTB tyres is often the decisive factor for newcomers. The dream of the freedom to ride almost anywhere, to see a lot of things you wouldn't otherwise see and to set up camp where others can't even get to by bike is tempting. And there's the added bonus of having lots of fun on the road and experiencing nature up close.
A classic all-rounder gravel bike makes it easy for the newbie: it is less lively to handle than a road bike and is almost as easy to control as Omi's step-through bike. However, one challenge remains for many: the drop bar, usually simply called the racing handlebar. It requires a forward-leaning riding position, even if the riding position on the racer can still be a long way from this. This riding position is not only easy for experienced road cyclists to adopt, it is also very comfortable for them, especially in the moderate form of the Graveler. Many newbies also like the racing handlebars.
But the big thing is that if you're not used to this posture, you'll have to get used to it. In terms of ergonomics, this involves supporting your upper body with your arms, but above all the hyperextension of your neck. This means: first familiarise yourself with short distances before you can go on a real tour. Second point: steering and shifting gears on the drop bar. These processes are hardly more complicated than on a trekking bike handlebar, but the movements need to be learnt. At the same time, you have to build up confidence in your riding position on an unfamiliar geometry. The best way to do this is to feel your way around - including the limits in terms of braking and cornering. If you want to gravel bike, you have to familiarise yourself with the special features. For example, practise braking on open terrain with the surface of your choice to test when the front or rear wheel locks up or when the rear wheel loses contact with the ground.
This is especially great for relaxing and a huge difference to road cycling. There's no hustle and bustle, you're more protected than in traffic and still have a sporty ride. - Michael (43) and Claudia (39) love cycling through the woods.
From MTB to gravel biking
The riding technique is largely the same - experienced mountain bikers are usually also relaxed gravel riders after a little familiarisation. But the same applies here: you have to get used to the racing handlebars and their position, as well as the different controls for the gears and brakes. Gravel bikes are also often equipped with less efficient brake systems than MTBs - four-piston brakes are usually used here, while gravel bikes usually have two-piston brakes with smaller discs, which often do not deliver the same efficiency. And there is another significant change associated with the terrain:
The classic gravel bike has no suspension - but the MTB rider is used to at least a suspension fork and often a full-suspension system. In addition to the fundamental change in the choice of terrain, there is also the different riding routine: If, for example, small terrain steps on an MTB are simply ridden over with confidence in the suspension, the gravel rider takes up speed and takes the load off the front and rear wheels one after the other. What is the impetus for MTB riders to reach for a gravel bike? For many, it's probably less adrenalin and more wellness. The flow, the smooth, speedy wobbling along on winding gravel paths is alluring. In return, there is less adrenaline, which is provided by the jumps on an MTB, and a lot of enjoyment of nature.
Getting into gravel biking from a road bike
The wish here is often simple: more options! Not having to turn back if the route planning was once again inaccurate and the route - supposedly - ends on a rough dirt track. Not having to change a great route because the tarmac turns to gravel and forest floor in between or a long section of rough cobblestones has slipped in that you can't get out of without stress. Or - perhaps the ultimate - to finally be able to go for a ride and find a nice route that takes you through forests and across fields that you wouldn't otherwise have been able to experience. More experience of nature is added.
Anyone coming from a trekking bike ...
... expects a more active riding experience, more speed on surfaces that they may already know from their tours. And then from a lower handlebar perspective, which he or she is probably less familiar with but is curious about. The same applies here as for the newbie: familiarise yourself with the handling and reaction of the bike. At the same time, the tourer may be looking forward to the new way of travelling with luggage: Bikepacking puts the bike in the foreground and fits the bags into the frame etc. - unlike on a trekking bike, where the rack is defined by the more or less standardised bags. Advantage: The handling remains largely balanced, as the centre of gravity remains in the middle of the bike.
Above all, planning your journey is much easier - you don't have to worry about the condition of the roads. And it's also perfect when partners are of different strengths. - Tobias (45) only started cycling again in 2019 - first on a trekking bike and now also on an e-gravel bike. He goes on tour a lot with his girlfriend, even on holiday.
Bikepacking: the right bags for your bike
Why go to the trouble of hanging lots of small panniers on the frame, handlebars and fork instead of two large ones on the pannier rack? Sure, gravel bikes often don't offer the option of mounting a pannier rack. But anyone who has ever been out on a challenging dirt track with heavy panniers knows that a) they put an extremely heavy load on the rear triangle and rear wheel on uneven terrain and b) the centre of gravity shifts to the rear, making the bike more difficult to control, especially on uneven terrain; there is too little weight on the front wheel, which makes the bike unsafe, especially off-road. If you use bikepacking bags, you can transport a similar amount if you put them together cleverly, but largely avoid the problems mentioned.
That's right, packing needs a system and time: for example, to think about what goes where. After all, you often need bags that are adapted to the bike. In return, however, you get a bike that has become significantly heavier, but is almost as manoeuvrable and easy to ride as without luggage. If you distribute your luggage between the handlebar rollers, perhaps also the pair of fork bags, the bag for the frame triangle and the large saddle bag, you can achieve a very balanced weight distribution. A pleasant side effect: unlike sometimes when touring with panniers, which offer a generous amount of space - for longer holiday trips, for example - you can learn to be more modest when packing bikepacking bags: "Do I really need the slippers? And the second towel?" Sometimes it's only as a bikepacker that we realise how little we really need to feel comfortable on the road.
The five commandments of graveling
- You should get dirty! Have fun! If you only look for the cleanest route, you will never enter the gravel paradise.
- You should honour hikers and dogs! Gravel biking is more fun when everyone is having fun together on the same gravel and not falling over each other.
- Thou shalt not gravel with flat tyres. Gravel tyres roll more comfortably and safely with less pressure. But pay attention to the numbers that are stamped on the tyre sidewall!
- You should ride the gravel bike wherever it takes you. After all, commuting and city surfing can also help you to have more fun on your gravel bike.
- You are supposed to do the cleaning! Hosing down and drying should be the basis of your bike care. Use a low-pressure cleaner so that your bike lasts a long time!
