Source: pressedienst-fahrrad, Thomas Geisler
As well as cycling, the Dutch love football. It is therefore no surprise that Amsterdam has its own themed trail dedicated to the country’s greatest footballer, Johan Cruijff. Cruijff’s influence in the Netherlands is comparable to that of Franz Beckenbauer in Germany. Germany’s most famous footballer was born in Munich and continues to shape the city through his work to this day – even beyond his death in 2024. However, you’ll search in vain for an official cycle tour of the places where Beckenbauer made his mark. It’s time to change that – and, whilst you’re at it, explore key sites associated with three other World Cup winners who were also born in Munich.
Beckenbauer and my start in Giesing
I begin my tour in the Giesing district at the Ostfriedhof cemetery. It was in the area bounded by Zugspitzstraße, Watzmannstraße and St.-Bonifatius-Straße that Beckenbauer took the first steps of his career. Not far from his family home, he used to play football with the neighbourhood children, mostly barefoot and initially with a large ball of wool. I cycle down Zugspitzstraße in the hope of finding a sign marking his birthplace – but there’s nothing to be seen. Presumably to protect the residents, there is nothing to be seen. When his older playmates turned their attention to other activities, the talented young footballer decided to join SC 1906 München, whose pitch was located right next to his family home. The traditional Giesing club was one of the city’s best-known clubs at the time. It is now purely a strength and conditioning club; the football section merged with SpVgg 1906 Haidhausen, which now runs the training ground. On the artificial pitch, young people of various age groups are passing the ball around, whilst a boy of about ten is receiving one-to-one training a little way off. Such training facilities were certainly not available to Beckenbauer. Back then, cinder pitches were the norm, where you’d end up with bloody knees.
In the footsteps of ‘Katsche’ Schwarzenbeck to Bayern
At the age of 13, Beckenbauer then moved to what was already one of the city’s biggest clubs: FC Bayern Munich. I hop on my bike and set off for Säbener Straße. FC Bayern has had its training ground there since 1949. The route there takes me through side streets and parks. I wonder whether the young Beckenbauer also cycled to training. Did he even have a bike? If so, certainly not a carbon bike with wide tyres like the ‘Terra’ from Orbea, which rolls carefree through the streets of Munich. Along the route, there is a constant alternation between old residential buildings and modern office complexes with green spaces. Tradition meets modernity. This is also evident on Säbener Straße. FC Bayern’s huge training and administrative complex is a few hundred metres long. Several training pitches are available; the professionals’ main pitch can be concealed by a large curtain. Secrecy is common in modern professional football. Right next to it stands a small, wooden clubhouse by an artificial turf pitch. This is where FC Sportfreunde München play. The club is known for its youth work in the neighbourhood. Around 300 young people are currently said to train here – it serves as a hub for children from the surrounding area. A certain Hans-Georg Schwarzenbeck, known as ‘Katsche’, also took his first steps in football with the Sportfreunde in the 1950s, before moving one house down at the age of 13 and celebrating successes with FC Bayern and the national team alongside Beckenbauer.
The slap that changed everything for the ‘Emperor’
I cycle past the Bayern complex and then turn off towards Grünwalder Straße to catch a glimpse of the training ground of the city’s biggest rivals, TSV 1860 Munich. Actually, Beckenbauer would have preferred to move from SC 1906 to the “Sechzgern”, but shortly before the planned move, he was given a “slap” by a 1860 player at a youth tournament – the decision went in favour of FC Bayern and Beckenbauer became a club legend in red. My route continues along the high banks of the Isar. The wide cycle path is completely shaded, which helps me cool down on this hot day. The next destination is the Municipal Stadium on Grünwalder Straße. It was there that Franz Beckenbauer played his first Bundesliga match and spent many years playing alongside Katsche Schwarzenbeck. Whilst it used to be the home ground for both of Munich’s big clubs, after some back-and-forth it is now the home of the “Sechzger” and FC Bayern’s second team. The cycle path runs right past the stadium’s west stand. I take a look at the walls on the outside, decorated with stickers, and snap a few photos of the legendary stadium. The route heads downhill towards Candidplatz and then turns right into Pilgersheimer Straße. Number 38 was home to the Karl Thiemig printing works. That’s where Katsche Schwarzenbeck did his apprenticeship during his early years at Bayern – probably unimaginable for a young professional today. The printing works went into administration in the 1980s; today, the building houses a discount store and an office complex. I stop briefly to stock up on a few supplies for the rest of the tour. A soft drink, some gummy bears and a chocolate bar find a spot in the pannier alongside my wallet, smartphone and keys.
Munich’s first world champion: Hans Bauer
I head towards the Isar via Schyrenstraße and continue south along the Isar Cycle Path to the Brudermühlbrücke. I cross the bridge and cycle into the Sendling district. Somewhat tucked away between residential buildings and a school complex lies the home of FC Wacker Munich. For many years, the club was the third force in Munich football. Today, the first team plays in the Landesliga. Small stands bear witness to its glorious past. For a short time, a future World Cup winner also played for the club before he too moved to FC Bayern: Hans Bauer. Munich’s first World Cup winner made just five international appearances, two of which came at the legendary 1954 World Cup in Switzerland. Hans Bauer’s story only becomes interesting after the World Cup: to capitalise on his popularity, an oil company offered him a lease on a petrol station in Munich-Pasing. Bauer worked at the petrol station in the mornings and went to training in the evenings, though this did not have a negative impact on his career. Bauer became captain of FC Bayern and was allowed to lift the trophy during the club’s first cup victory in 1957. He ended his successful playing career in 1959; unlike Beckenbauer, he did not wish to pursue a career in management.
…and the latest: Philipp Lahm
From Sendling, my route takes me northwards through side streets to Theresienwiese, which I cross at a leisurely pace. On the horizon, I can already make out the Olympic Tower, which points the way to my next destination. Passing the first outskirts of the major construction site at the main station, I turn off towards Stiglmaierplatz. I’m not in the mood for a stop at the Löwenbräukeller in the early afternoon – where Bayern Munich players used to love to celebrate their victories – so I continue my way out of town towards the Olympic Park via Dachauer Straße. At the junction by the Bundeswehr grounds, I turn left for a short detour. At the end of the road, a footbridge crosses the Mittlerer Ring; at its foot lies the football ground of FT Gern, the home club of Philipp Lahm, captain of the 2014 World Cup-winning team. Young Philipp grew up around the sports ground before moving to Säbener Straße at the age of twelve. The World Cup winner still pops into the club grounds now and then since retiring; for example, he took part in a senior tournament. The sports complex, with its two pitches, looks well-maintained. Three lads are kicking a few balls about at the entrance. The district league club now places a strong emphasis on inclusion work. Since May 2025, it has had its own inclusion section to enable children and young people with and without disabilities to play football.
Olympic Stadium: The scene of the greatest triumph
I turn back, and it’s now only about a kilometre to the Olympic Park. Passing the SAP Arena, home to ice hockey and basketball, I reach the extensive park, which opened in 1972 for the Summer Olympics in Munich. The site’s iconic roof structure remains one of Munich’s landmarks to this day. For over 30 years, the stadium hosted major football matches. Philipp Lahm made his professional debut for FC Bayern there in 2002. But the most famous match played here was probably the 1974 World Cup final between Germany and the Netherlands. Superstar Johan Cruijff was confident of victory beforehand, but found his match in Katsche Schwarzenbeck. Germany eventually won 2–1 and captain Franz Beckenbauer was able to lift the trophy high into the Munich sky. Schwarzenbeck and Beckenbauer were the pillars of the team and have since been among the few footballers worldwide to celebrate the World Cup title in their hometown. Unfortunately, the site’s history is evident not only in its history but also in its dilapidated state. Where concerts by international artists would normally take place, modernisation work has been underway for several years, and much of the area is closed off due to construction. I take a short detour up the Olympiaberg to at least catch a glimpse of the inside of the stadium.
Cycling to the Allianz Arena
From the Olympiaberg, I can see my next, more modern destination to the north: the Allianz Arena, which is about ten kilometres away. Thanks to my wide gravel tyres, I cycle north along the gravel paths of the Olympic Park to Moosacher Straße, which I then follow eastwards along wide cycle paths. At Frankfurter Ring, I head north again onto Ingolstädter Straße. Partly under a tree-lined avenue, I ride in the shade through an industrial estate to the northern edge of the city, home to the new FC Bayern Campus, the large training ground for the women’s and youth teams. In front of the campus entrance, I follow a small footpath that leads me into the Fröttmaninger Heide. As I round a right-hand bend, a “Awesome!” slips out of my mouth and even the Terra seems to leap for joy: ahead of us, bathed in glorious sunshine, lie around three kilometres of the finest gravel track – with a view of the Allianz Arena. I shift to the big chainring, start pedalling and enjoy the ride through the countryside, away from the city traffic and its traffic lights.
The memorial to the Emperor
Unfortunately, the gravel fun is over far too quickly. The route leads over a bridge at the Fröttmaning underground station to the Allianz Arena. The Arena was built for the 2006 World Cup in Germany. Germany won the World Cup opening match here against Costa Rica 4–2. Philipp Lahm scored the first goal, and the Munich native was thus a key figure in the so-called ‘Summer Fairy Tale’. For Beckenbauer, who – by fair or foul means, as is widely believed but has never been conclusively clarified – had brought the World Cup to Germany, the construction of the arena was also a matter close to his heart. As then-president of FC Bayern, he championed the new build at a political level. Since his death in 2024, the few official memorials to the city’s famous son are located in the surrounding area. The square by the underground station bears his name, and a statue in front of the stadium commemorates what is arguably the country’s greatest footballer. In addition, Beckenbauer’s number 5 shirt hangs beneath the roof of the Allianz Arena. I stop by the statue and let my thoughts wander. Although it’s not a match day, there are a few people about. Many of them are tourists who have been on a stadium tour and are now happily strolling towards the underground, decked out in Bayern fan gear. I’m too late to join one of the two-and-a-half-hour tours, but I think back to the many matches I’ve been lucky enough to watch here.
The walk back through the countryside
Enough of the football history: it’s time for a bike ride. The ride has been lovely so far, but flat. I need a bit of a climb, so I head up Fröttmaninger Berg. At the top, I enjoy the view over Munich as far as the Alps, whose peaks are still snow-capped. Then it’s back towards the city centre; I follow the signs to Marienplatz. First, I cycle through the Isar floodplains again on lovely gravel tracks. The route continues through the English Garden. There’s not much going on in the northern part of the park, and the kilometres just fly by. But time is also passing quickly. I’ve now been on the go for almost four hours, and my stomach is telling me it’s time for a break.
A short break at the world champions’ celebration venues
I cycle to the beer garden by the Chinese Tower in the south of the park and treat myself to a light snack and a drink. Just a two-minute bike ride away stands the Hilton Hotel Am Tucherpark. It was in this hotel that the team’s victory dinner with officials from the German Football Association was due to take place in 1974 to mark their World Cup triumph. However, as the DFB had not invited the players’ partners to the dinner, the world champions decided to boycott the event and celebrate in the streets of Munich instead. What had been planned as the biggest celebration in the association’s history ended in a fiasco. My tour then continues through the southern part of the English Garden to Marienplatz and Munich City Hall. On the balcony and by the Mariensäule, the teams celebrated their great World Cup triumphs in 1954 and 1974 with the public. In particular, the 1954 team’s march through Munich’s city centre – still scarred by the war – led by Hans Bauer was a groundbreaking experience at the time. Hundreds of thousands are said to have cheered on the “Heroes of Bern”. One of them was the young Franz Beckenbauer, who, according to legend, decided at that time to become a professional footballer himself.
From a newsagent’s to international fame
I continue through the Gärtnerplatz district and then cross the River Isar. Before I climb the Nockherberg to return to my starting point on the Giesinger Höhen, I stop briefly at 9 Ohlmüllerstraße. After retiring from football, Katsche Schwarzenbeck took over his aunts’ kiosk there and ran it until 2008. Whilst his footballing colleague Beckenbauer conquered the world as an official, Katsche regularly delivered office supplies to Säbener Straße and sold magazines. Career paths can be so different. I smile, as today the building houses a shop selling high-quality racing bikes – somehow fitting for my tour. For my final stop, I cycle right across Giesing again, past the SpVgg 1906 grounds and straight on to the southern outskirts of the city. At the Perlacher Forst cemetery, a little off the main paths, shaded by bushes and trees, Franz Beckenbauer rests in the family grave. After the hustle and bustle of Marienplatz and city traffic, I enjoy the peace and quiet. I pay my respects to the Kaiser one last time and silently thank him for the fantastic tour of Munich. It’s around 55 kilometres in the end; with various stops and sightseeing, I’ve been on the go for just over five hours. Apart from a few hundred metres along Ohlmüllerstraße, the route takes me along cycle paths, gravel tracks, through parks or along side streets with little traffic. It is already getting dark as I leave the cemetery. I attach my battery-powered lights to my bike and set off on the return journey.
Although I’ve lived in Munich – and even in Giesing – for years, I discovered some new places for myself on the tour. I was particularly impressed by the Fröttmaninger Heide – a real gravel paradise with a view of a football stadium. - Thomas Geisler, Editor, Pressedienst-Fahrrad
More football-themed tour suggestions
The Johan Cruyff Tour in Amsterdam
The route follows in the footsteps of the world-class Dutch footballer Johan Cruijff through Amsterdam for over 18 kilometres. It starts at his birthplace, passes by the former De Mer stadium, and continues on to the Johan Cruijff Arena, the current home ground of Ajax Amsterdam. The tour was designed by actor Tobias Nierot. He played the footballer in the musical “14”, named after the exceptional player’s shirt number, which ran for three years at a theatre near Amsterdam. The tour can be completed either on foot or by bike.
A tour of Eindhoven with Philips
When Gerard Philips founded the first Philips factory in Eindhoven in 1891, the city was transformed and experienced an economic boom. Philips quickly became the largest employer and built its own housing estates, schools and parks. PSV Eindhoven was founded in 1913 as a works football club. To this day, the club plays its home matches at the Philips Arena. Although Philips has since moved its headquarters to Amsterdam, the company’s legacy remains visible in Eindhoven. Using an app, you can navigate your way through the city on your own routes and learn a great deal about the history and present day of Philips’ cultural heritage. A detour to the football stadium for a tour of the grounds and a visit to the museum is also well worth it.
German Football Route NRW
Probably the most popular football-themed cycle route in Germany. The route stretches over 800 kilometres across North Rhine-Westphalia, from the edge of the Eifel to the Hermannshöhen in the Teutoburg Forest. This themed cycle route focuses on the places that have made their mark on national and international football history. Along the way, you’ll learn all sorts of interesting, insightful and curious facts about the beautiful game. For example, how the football boots of global superstar Pelé ended up in Versmold, or where Helmut Rahn, the 1954 World Cup hero, worked and used to sit at the bar in Essen. You can also visit various football stadiums. The route starts in Aachen and ends in Bielefeld.
A cycling holiday without football in the Swabian Alb
“We can do anything – except speak standard German… and organise football-themed cycle tours,” writes the Swabian Alb Tourist Office. The only reference to the football stadium in Heidenheim can be found on the Brenz Cycle Route. Otherwise, those not keen on the World Cup and nature lovers can enjoy a peaceful cycling holiday here.
