Fully or hardtail?
The basic question of whether to buy a hardtail with a rigid rear triangle or a full-suspension mountain bike is often settled by the budget. Good fullys are only available from 1500 euros upwards. Off-road hardtails are already available for less than 1000 euros. Hardtails are light, low-maintenance and inexpensive, but quickly reach their limits downhill. If you want to flood your bloodstream with adrenalin on challenging trails or are looking for comfort, you will be happier with a fully.
Where should I buy my mountain bike?
For anyone who has never fitted or removed a wheel before, we strongly recommend buying from a specialist dealer. Bike shops offer expert advice and help with repairs. But this service costs money, of course. Direct mail order companies like Canyon, Radon or Rose don't need a nationwide dealer network and can therefore offer better equipped bikes at lower prices. However, you have to carry out repairs yourself - or send the bike to the manufacturer.
1, 2 or 3? How many chainrings do I really need?
Single drivetrains are all the rage, but they also have disadvantages. 1x11 gears have a narrow gear spread. This means that a slight gear is often missing on climbs, while you can no longer pedal at higher speeds. Sram's new 1x12 drivetrain no longer has these problems, but it is expensive. Lower weight and a tidy appearance nevertheless speak in favour of the purist single drivetrain. 2x10 or 2x11 drivetrains have a significantly higher range. Triple drivetrains are now rarely offered and are considered outdated.
Carbon, aluminium or steel? Which material has which advantages?
If you opt for an inexpensive bike, you don't need to ask yourself this question. This is because carbon fibre is only used in high-priced models. The advantages of carbon fibre are obvious: it is lighter, has better stiffness and offers endless design possibilities. Carbon fibre parts react more sensitively to crashes. However, the days of frames or handlebars suddenly breaking are over. Steel or titanium are materials for enthusiasts.
Which wheel size suits me?
Since the end of the 26-inch era, numerous new wheel formats have caused confusion among customers. Large 29-inch wheels are particularly popular in the marathon scene, as they roll over obstacles better without putting too much strain on the minimalist chassis. Their disadvantage: they are heavier and make bikes more sluggish on winding trails. As the suspension travel increases, the wheels usually shrink to 27.5 inches. These are lighter, more manoeuvrable and easier to accelerate. However, there are also harmonious 29ers with plenty of suspension travel. While plus-size bikes with wide tyres are currently in fashion, fat bikes remain more of a niche product.
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You can choose between these mountain bike categories:
HARDTAIL:
Low weight is just one reason why hardtails have a large fan base. Low prices and the low maintenance requirements of the rigid rear triangle also sweeten the entry into mountain biking. No bike accelerates more easily and rides more efficiently on moderate trails or gravel paths. The other side of the coin: hardtails are not very comfortable. The rigid rear triangle hardly absorbs any shocks from the ground. Hardtails quickly reach their limits on rough descents. Currently, 29-inch wheels are usually fitted to hardtails.
Price* from 700 Euro
Weight max. 11.5 kilos
Spring travel 100 mm
Special feature In addition to normal hardtails, there are also trail hardtails. With more suspension travel and wide tyres, they make difficult descents easier.
MARATHON-FULLY
Marathon fullys are also a lot of fun off the track. 100 to 120 millimetres of suspension travel on the fork and rear suspension provide sporty touring riders with significantly more comfort than hardtails on long rides. However, the main focus of the category remains the low weight and high efficiency of the chassis. The sprung rear suspension absorbs smaller impacts and thus provides more comfort and grip. However, the marathon fullys have too little suspension travel for difficult descents. Good, lightweight models are expensive and can cost 6000 euros and more.
Price* 2500 Euro
Weight by 11.5 kilos
Spring travel 100-120 mm
Special feature On many Marathon full-suspension bikes, you can lock the entire suspension with a lever on the handlebars.
TRAILBIKE
Trail bikes are the happy medium between downhill fun and euphoria on the climbs. With 120 to 130 millimetres of suspension travel, this category also feels at home in demanding terrain without ruining your ride to the summit with excessive weight. The sporty models in this category even allow the occasional marathon start. More expensive models already have telescopic seatposts and suspension with three different platform modes to suppress annoying bobbing of the rear triangle when pedalling. Trail bikes are perfect for crossing the Alps.
Price* 1700 Euro
Weight by 12.5 kilos
Spring travel 120-130 mm
Special feature Retractable seat posts are often used to increase downhill fun.
ALL MOUNTAIN
No mountain too steep, no descent too difficult. All-mountain bikes can cope with any terrain. The generous suspension travel absorbs even the biggest bumps and allows the rider to glide over bumpy trails like on a sedan chair. Telescopic stabilisers are just as much part of the standard equipment as a powerful brake system with large brake discs. An all-mountain bike always remains suitable for touring, even if the rider has to pay tribute to the relatively high weight - especially uphill. Racers even often use all-mountain bikes for enduro races.
Price* 2300 Euro
Weight by 13 kilos
Spring travel 130-150 mm
Special feature Wide handlebars and tyres make it easier to ride on challenging single trails.
ENDURO
Blocky trails, steep berms or jumps, an enduro bike can handle anything. No matter how difficult the descent, the bikes with 160 millimetres of suspension travel master the challenge and ensure that the rider's adrenaline levels remain constantly high. Heavy tyres, thick suspension elements and downhill-oriented geometries make the climb more difficult. If you are prepared to invest over 3000 euros, you can also get a lightweight enduro bike that is still suitable for touring. The robustly built bikes can handle a visit to the bike park without any problems.
Price* 2200 Euro
Weight from 13 kilos
Spring travel approx. 160 mm
Special feature Thick suspension forks and shocks with equalisers iron out every bump on the descent.
*The price refers to the price limit above which there are good models in this category. There are also models below this price limit.
THE SMALL 1X1 OF MOUNTAIN BIKE COMPONENTS
What do the individual parts of a mountain bike need to be able to do? And what changes if I spend more money?
Frame
The frame is the centrepiece of every bike. The weight and workmanship are just two parameters that you should pay attention to for the most important of all components. Check the geometry of the bike thoroughly. The trend in all categories is towards increasingly slack head angles, short rear triangles and long main frames (see also page 78). Complete bikes usually have the same frame in many price categories. Only the top models are made of carbon instead of aluminium. Good carbon hardtails are available from 2000 euros. For fullys, you usually have to invest over 3500 euros for a carbon fibre chassis. Pay attention to whether or how many bottle cages can be fitted. A holder is mandatory.
Tyres
Tyres are the most underestimated component. Hardly any other component has such a significant influence on riding behaviour. Wide tyres with a rough profile turn a trail bike into a downhill predator, narrow tyres save weight and allow you to start a marathon on the same bike. In addition to the tread pattern, pay particular attention to the construction. Inexpensive tyres have a wire core, while more expensive versions have a foldable Kevlar thread. At Schwalbe and Conti, the high-quality tyres have an "Evolution" or "Racesport" label. The wider the tyre, the better it rides downhill.
Chassis
After the frame, the shock and suspension fork are often the most expensive components of a complete bike. Modern mountain bikes are adjusted to the rider's weight via the air pressure in the suspension elements. The more expensive the bike, the more varied the adjustment options. In addition to the standard adjustable rebound damping (extension speed), the compression damping (compression speed) can also be adjusted on high-quality suspension systems. Good suspension elements have a platform and lockout function to avoid annoying pumping when pedalling. Cross-country bikes can often even be locked from the handlebars.
Handlebars, stem and seatpost
On inexpensive entry-level bikes, these add-on parts are usually made of aluminium. Only in the high-price segment do manufacturers opt for carbon fibre. The shorter the stem, the more direct the handling of the bike. The stem length shrinks to a minimum of 40 to 60 millimetres, especially on downhill-oriented bikes. Stems longer than 100 millimetres are outdated, even on hardtails. On the other hand, handlebars have become wider in recent years for better handling. 700 to 760 millimetres are the standard. Expensive bikes often have telescopic stems to increase freedom of movement on descents.
Brakes
Hydraulic disc brakes have now become established on mountain bikes. A brake calliper normally has two brake pistons. Enduro bikes even use calipers with four pistons for more braking power. On high-quality brakes, the position of the lever can be adjusted without tools and is often made of carbon fibre. The larger the brake disc, the better the brake deceleration. A 180 millimetre diameter on the front wheel is standard, while heavy riders can increase braking performance even further with 200 mm discs.
Impellers
Together with the tyres, the wheels make up the largest part of the so-called rotating mass. The lower the weight of the wheels (and tyres), the easier it is to accelerate a bike when setting off. Mavic, DT Swiss and other manufacturers have system wheels with coordinated spokes, rims and hubs in their range. System wheels are often very visually appealing, but if spokes break or rims are damaged, it is usually difficult to get a replacement. Conventional spoked wheels with 32 spokes work just as well. When buying, look for wide rims (rim width at least 22.5 mm) and thru-axles on the hubs. Quick-releases are less rigid and more difficult to fit accurately.
MTB gearing: XTR, Di2, XX1 or Eagle
The terms used to describe circuits are often cryptic. What do they mean, and what do I really need to pay attention to in the circuit?
Shimano's XT drivetrain combines precise shifting and durability at an attractive price. It's no wonder that this drivetrain is emblazoned on numerous bikes and praised by sellers. When buying a new mountain bike, you should not only pay attention to the rear derailleur, but also to the other components of the drivetrain. In addition to the rear derailleur, the front derailleur (for double drivetrains), shifters, cassette and chainrings play a key role in the shifting process. Cheaper components at SLX level are often mixed in here. It is therefore worth taking a closer look.
In addition to Shimano, there is a second gear manufacturer, Sram, which specialises purely in drivetrains with just one chainring. With its high-quality Eagle drivetrains, Sram achieves almost the same gear spread (difference between the lightest and heaviest gear) as a conventional 2x10 or 2x11 drivetrain with twelve sprockets on the cassette. The drivetrains with only eleven gears do not quite manage this.
Sram's XO1 drivetrains are specially designed for enduro use. Shimano's Di2 drivetrains change gears electronically. You can use the table on the right to compare the different groupsets and assess their value. Fullys from 3000 euros should have at least an XT-level drivetrain or higher.
THE RIGHT FRAME SIZE FOR A MTB
What size do I need? How to measure your stride length to determine the right frame size.
It is best to ask for help with measuring. The result is often inaccurate on your own. Stand barefoot with your back against a wall. Now pull a spirit level or a book upwards at your crotch until you feel a noticeable pressure. Make sure that the spirit level is horizontal to the floor or that one side of the book is resting against the wall. Using a tape measure or folding rule, you can now measure the length of your stride from the floor to the top edge of the spirit level. If you multiply the step length by 0.226 (0.574), you will get the approximate frame size in inches (cm).
You can read this article or the entire BIKE 5/2017 issue in the BIKE app (iTunes and Google Play) or buy the issue in the DK shop reorder:
