Just a few years ago, anyone who wanted to switch from a classic bike to an e-MTB had an easy time of it. Only a handful of manufacturers even had off-road e-bikes in their programme. There were a few hardtails for a marginal target group and practically no fullys. Nobody would have thought that the tables would turn in such a short space of time. Today, many manufacturers are investing more money in the development of motorised bikes, and some have even completely abandoned the purely muscle-powered mountain bike segment. The e-MTB market is booming, but the result is an almost impenetrable jungle of different categories, models and price ranges. And while with classic bikes the questions revolve around suspension, gears, disc brakes, wheels and weights, the focus is now primarily on the drive. The market offers numerous motor brands, and the variety of available battery solutions is also growing.
It's a complex topic that can quickly become overwhelming. On the following pages, we would therefore like to give you a rough orientation. You should then be able to answer the most important questions for yourself: What type of E-MTB am I? What should my bike be able to do? Which drive is best suited to my requirements? How much battery capacity do I need? Should the battery be integrated or easy to swap? And of course: How much does all this fun cost? Once you have found the right answers to these questions, you can make your way to the nearest bike shop with a clear conscience. If you want to delve deeper into the subject beforehand, you will find a wealth of further information in EMTB. We have tested 21 bikes from different categories in this issue. Good luck!
TYPE QUESTION
If you're looking for a sports car, you don't need to look in the diesel segment. The same applies to the search for the right e-bike. There is now a suitable bike for every purpose. You just need to be clear about what you want to do with it. If you mainly want to get a taste of the mountain air on gravel paths, then you don't need 160 millimetres of suspension travel. If you're looking for fun off-road, you won't be happy with a hardtail. So think about what type of biker you are, where you mainly ride, what sporting ability you have, but also what your goals are. We will help you with this on the next page.
PRICE QUESTION
Everything revolves around money - including the choice of e-MTB, of course. How much you have to spend on a bike naturally depends on what you want to do with it - i.e. where and how intensively you want to use the bike. Roughly speaking, off-road fun starts at around 2300 euros. For that you get a hardtail that you can use on easier terrain. There are hardly any limits to full-suspension bikes - your own riding technique is more of a limiting factor here. Fullys start at around 3300 euros. The best price/performance ratio can be found in the price range between 3500 and 4500 euros.
On the following pages you will find the answers you need to make the right purchase decision.
TYPE QUESTION
Fully or hardtail, suspension travel, wheel sizes - the choice of E-MTBs is getting bigger and bigger. What type of e-MTB are you?
Pleasure biker
You don't want to put in unnecessary effort or win a race. You need a comfortable bike for a trip to the beer garden, to the hut or around the lake after work. You're not looking for challenging trails, but you don't mind riding over hill and dale from time to time. A comfortable riding position on the bike is more important to you than the ultimate climbing ability. Then you are the pleasure biker.
Comfort hardtail
Hardtail and comfort - these terms are actually contradictory. But there are effective ways to compensate for the hard rear end. Comfort hardtails should roll on thick plus tyres, which also filter out the small bumps on gravel paths. At the front, forks with 100-120 millimetres of travel absorb potholes. The riding position is upright and comfortable.
Comfort Fully
Full suspension is always an advantage, even more so on an E-MTB than on a classic bike. Even the small bumps on a gravel path are filtered much better by these bikes, and you simply remain seated when there are potholes. As with a hardtail, the riding position is upright. The suspension travel of these bikes is usually between 100 and 120 millimetres.
Performance biker
You get on your bike because you want to challenge your body and equipment. You train regularly in all weathers on your home circuit. You treat your bike as a piece of sports equipment, you look after it and store it carefully after use. You don't need a lot of suspension travel because you are not focussed on demanding downhills. The weight of your bike is much more important to you. Then you are a performance biker.
Racehardtail
The name may be a little misleading, as there are no real races in which these bikes could score points. It's more about the sporty demands that the clientele of these bikes has. Around 100 millimetres of suspension travel, sporty, stretched geometry and the lowest possible weight - that's what characterises this type of bike. Weight is also a priority for the drive system, not pure performance. Some of these bikes use so-called minimal-assist drives (e.g. from Fazua) and score points with weights of well under 20 kilos.
RaceFully
The full-suspension counterpart in this category. Also a stretched seating position, designed less for comfort and more for efficiency. The suspension travel of these bikes is around 120 millimetres.
Trail biker
You love technical single trails and technical descents. As a non-motorised biker, the climbs were just a means to an end for you, the downhill was the main focus. Thanks to motorised assistance, you now also enjoy the uphills. And especially the tricky trail sections. But sometimes you simply use your e-MTB to save valuable energy for the descent. Then you are a trail biker.
Trail-Fully
The journey is the goal, and it should be as much fun as possible. Trail bikes are, as the name suggests, designed purely for off-road use. That's why there are no hardtails in this category. They have suspension travel of between 120 and 160 millimetres and flat geometries with long front ends (reach). Some manufacturers pay attention to short chainstays for maximum manoeuvrability. Trail bikes have heavily profiled tyres for maximum grip and are increasingly rolling on mixed wheel sizes (27.5 inch rear, 29 inch front).
Enduro
These are the downhill versions of trail bikes. E-Enduros have suspension travel from 160 millimetres, powerful brakes and extra-wide handlebars. The material and terrain are not limiting, only your own riding technique sets the boundaries.
Motor buying advice
The motor is the centrepiece of the E-MTB. Depending on the area of use and bike category, different systems are possible. A test ride should precede the final decision. Here is an overview:
Bosch Performance CX
Weight 3.9 kg
Max. Continuous power 518 watts
Support levels 4
Probably the most proven motor on the market: powerful, robust, stable. Still top for bikers travelling in alpine terrain. Available with a lightweight external battery or with an integrated Powertube battery.
Brose Drive S Mag
Weight 2.9 kg
Max. Continuous power 493 watts
Support levels 4 (adjustable)
Quiet, powerful, easy to control - the latest Brose generation is currently setting the bar high. Particularly due to the high torque at low revs. Previously only fitted to Specialized and Rotwild.
Fazua Evation
Weight 3.3 kg (with battery)
Max. Continuous power 313 watts
Support levels 3
This so-called minimal assist drive scores points with its light weight and small installation space. Performance is not the main focus. Already installed by many manufacturers, e.g. Focus, Lapierre, Bulls and Fantic.
Panasonic GX0
Weight 2.95 kg
Max. Continuous power 600 watts (manufacturer's specification)
Support levels 4 (adjustable)
Panasonic is launching its top-of-the-range GX0 model on the market this year. This motor will be installed in some Flyer models. However, we have not yet tested the drive.
Rocky Mountain Powerplay
Weight n.a.
Max. Continuous power 472 watts
Support levels 3 (adjustable)
The in-house development of the Canadian cult manufacturer Rocky Mountain is unfortunately only used in its own bikes. This is a shame, as the unconventional motor is extremely powerful and particularly easy to modulate.
Shimano Steps E8000
Weight 3.0 kg
Max. Continuous power 445 watts
Support levels 4 (adjustable)
With Bosch, the most commonly used e-MTB motor, often found in the upper price ranges. Compact, light and sufficiently powerful. However, not quite as powerful and stable as the Bosch.
TQ Systems
Weight 4.4 kg
Max. Continuous power 734 watts
Support levels 5 (adjustable)
The powerhouse among the E-MTB motors. No other motor delivers 120 Nm of torque. German production, very elegantly finished. The most prominent bike with TQ is the new Haibike Flyon.
Yamaha PW-X
Weight 3.1 kg
Max. Continuous power 485 watts
Support levels 5 (adjustable)
The PW-X is a real Bosch and Shimano terror. It is powerful, high-torque and easy to modulate.
At Haibike, the motor can be found in many bikes, while some manufacturers only use the weaker PW version.
Buying advice for batteries
Integration is on everyone's lips. the surface-mounted battery has the greatest advantages. When it comes to aesthetics, the integrated solutions score highly.
TIPS FOR BUYING A BIKE: THE COMPONENTS
Clipless or flat pedals
A matter of taste. Clipless pedals ensure a firm connection between shoe and pedal and prevent slipping off the pedal. On platform pedals, you get used to making fewer mistakes when practising your riding technique, and if things get dicey, you can pull your foot off the pedal more quickly. Starting off in difficult terrain is also much easier with flat pedals.
Spare battery
If you are planning long day tours and don't want to save on battery power, you will rarely be able to get by with just one battery. A spare battery in the rucksack is ballast, but doubles the range and provides security. Here too, you can try to get a good price for the whole package when you buy it. Tip for Bosch motors: Reserve batteries are also available with only 400 Wh. They are cheaper.
Tyre choice
A lot helps a lot. This also applies to E-MTB tyres. The thicker the tyres, the better the traction and comfort off-road. Rolling resistance can be safely neglected with E-MTB tyres. Many manufacturers fit tyres that are far too light and narrow ex works. It is best to pay attention to this when buying. Many dealers respond favourably to requests for changes.
Translation of
The right gear ratio depends on where you are travelling. If you are planning alpine tours, you should look for a short mountain gear ratio. For Bosch motors, this means: the front sprocket should not be larger than 16 teeth (other motors: up to 38), while a 36-tooth sprocket is recommended as the largest sprocket at the rear.
Telescopic support
A seatpost that can be adjusted from the handlebars should be fitted to every mountain bike. Downhill riding is safer and faster with a lower saddle. Unfortunately, this important part often falls victim to the red pencil on cheaper bikes. If you regularly ride in regions where the terrain constantly changes between steep uphill and downhill sections, it is better to opt for a more expensive model with a dropper post.
Impeller sizes
Anyone buying an e-MTB today has the choice between the 27.5 and the larger 29-inch wheel standards. For hardtails, we recommend either the 29er or 27.5er with the thick plus tyres. However, the rim width must be suitable (at least 30 mm inner diameter) and the necessary frame clearance must be given. Both wheel sizes make sense for full-suspension E-MTBs. The current trend: 27.5 with thick plus tyres at the rear and slightly narrower 29-inch tyres at the front. This combination combines the best of both worlds.
Crank length
Shorter cranks prevent pedal contact and provide safety. Nobody needs 175 millimetres, the standard dimension for classic mountain bikes, on an E-MTB. Better are 170 or even 165 millimetres.
Watch out for tuning!
Even if it's tempting, engine tuning is illegal and not a minor offence. It also harms the sport. The manufacturer's warranty is invalidated, and in the event of an accident there is the threat of trouble with the insurance company. Even if the tuning kits lie invitingly on the shelves at some dealerships: refuse with thanks. Take it sporty and simply pedal harder above 25 km/h.
