If you have the choice between pizza and pasta at your favourite Italian restaurant, you can make a gut decision without hesitation. Depending on your mood, one or the other dish may be the best choice. If you want to buy an e-bike, it's more difficult - and the consequences last longer. A meal is digested 24 hours later, a bike sits in the cellar for years. And only if the purchase was a good one can the bike be taken out into the fresh air as often as possible and not be left to gather dust in the catacombs.
Have you made the decision to join the ranks of e-mountain bikers? Congratulations! Then you have your finger on the pulse of the times. Hardly any other bike category is currently experiencing greater growth rates. The manufacturers' showrooms are full of a colourful selection of individual designs, equipped with components at different price levels. The difficulty is to filter out the right bike from this abundance of offers. This is not easy, especially for beginners. Who can say what they want from a sports car if they have never sat behind the wheel? If you have never tried an e-bike before, the first step must be a test ride - this is the only way to find out what e-biking is all about. A little warning up front: You should definitely expect a big grin to creep onto your face as soon as you get on the bike for the first time. This is completely normal - and says nothing about the quality of the model! But only a test ride like this gives you a basic understanding of what is possible with such bikes. The second step then consists of a very precise analysis of your personal requirements. Specialisation is well advanced in the case of mountain bikes. Depending on the area of use, the different types make more or less sense. You can find out which type of mountain bike suits you best using our typology here.
But there are also some decisions to be made when it comes to the engine. The first is what power and top speed the drive should deliver. In our tests of e-mountainbikes, we limit ourselves to pedelecs with a maximum speed of 25 kilometres per hour. This class offers the widest range of applications and anyone can ride them without a driving licence or additional knowledge wherever bicycles are permitted. Quite restrictive laws apply to classes with higher speeds. The term pedelec means that the motor only provides assistance if the rider also pedals.
For mountain bikes with full suspension, we believe that only mid-drive motors are suitable. The manufacturers have also realised this; fullies are now only very occasionally equipped with rear-wheel motors. This is because standard hub motors - in which the motor is permanently installed in the rear wheel - have the major disadvantage compared to mid-motor concepts that the speed of the motor cannot be geared to the speed of the rear wheel. However, electric motors work better when the speeds are higher. As a result, the additional thrust of the rear-wheel drive is usually low at low speeds. And when the going gets steep, these systems heat up more quickly. So if you frequently go on tours with steep climbs, you should buy a mid-motor bike.
Nevertheless, it can make sense to opt for an e-mountainbike with rear-wheel drive if the demands on the uphill qualities are not so decisive. If you only have to tackle moderate climbs or very short, steep ramps, a rear-wheel drive will also be fine and you will pay less. Once you have decided on the area of use and motor concept, you will find regular in-depth tests of current e-mountainbikes in our magazine, in which we describe, analyse and evaluate the bikes. In this special we have tested 16 bikes. There's no need to make a gut decision and the right bike can be found quickly. And pizza or pasta at your favourite Italian restaurant tastes twice as good after a proper bike tour.
If you have been mountain biking for a while, you will of course know the demands you place on your bike. If you are just starting out, you can orientate yourself on the following characters:
Hardtail rider
E-mountain bikers with relatively low off-road ambitions are at home in this group. If you are looking for a comfortable bike that can be ridden comfortably on gravel and forest paths and only relatively rarely gets challenging terrain under its tyres, this class is a good choice. The bikes are also cheaper than full-suspension bikes. Rear or mid-motor? No matter.
All-mountain biker
The term all-mountain describes the classic touring rider. The bikes must have decent suspension in order to excel in challenging terrain. They should have suspension travel of between 100 and 150 millimetres. The more suspension travel, the more suitable for off-road riding. With these bikes, you can complete long tours - whether relaxed on the cycle path or on challenging Alpine trails.
Freerider
If you see your bike as a gondola or shuttle replacement, you need an enduro or freeride bike. Powerful suspension is a must. Starting at 150 millimetres, more is better. The limit here is the battery, because hardly any drive system can manage more than 1000 metres in altitude without proper support from the rider. E-bikes in this class are still rare.
Wheel size 26-inch wheels used to be the law for mountain bikes. This has not been the case for a few years now. Two new wheel sizes have replaced the old size: 27.5 and 29 inches. The larger 29-inch wheels roll a little more easily, while the smaller 27.5-inch wheels are a little more manoeuvrable and are usually better suited to smaller people.
Geometry You can't buy a bike purely on the basis of geometry data. However, with a little experience, a certain tendency can be derived from the data. Be sure to try out a bike before you buy it.
Chassis setup A lot of detailed knowledge is required to optimise the suspension fork and rear triangle. The Extensive chassis special from BIKE can help.
Transport E-bikes usually weigh around 20 kilos. If you want to transport your bike by car, we recommend a carrier for the trailer coupling. If you have to lift the bikes very high, this can be cumbersome. Make sure you do not exceed the weight limit of the bike carrier.
TYRES
Constant punctures are annoying. Because e-bikes are heavier, they need stronger tyre casings to prevent punctures. Lightweight mountain bike tyres do not make sense here. Most tyre manufacturers offer reinforced versions.
CIRCUIT
Some motor types only allow one chainring on the crank. If you want to ride steeply uphill, you should pay attention to a wide gear spread. Cassettes with a large 42 sprocket are particularly useful.
BRAKES
Large brake discs on mountain bikes make sense for two reasons: firstly, the operating force is reduced and secondly, stability is increased. The following applies to E-MTB brake discs: no smaller than 180 mm at the front and rear.
DRIVE
Suspension forks and dampers have a significant influence on the function of the suspension. High-quality components can be very finely tuned and perfectly adapted to the rider and surface. In addition, thru axles increase stiffness.
1 CYCLING SHORTS AND JERSEY
If you're in the saddle for a long time, you definitely need cycling shorts with seat padding to keep chafing in the crotch at bay. Overtrousers are not absolutely necessary, but they do have visual advantages. A breathable jersey is also a good idea.
2 RUCKSACK AND CONTENTS
A comfortable bike rucksack with a water reservoir is practical for the tour, as many e-bikes do not offer the option of fitting a bottle cage. What do you need? A spare inner tube, pump, mini tool and a rain jacket are the minimum equipment.
3 GLOVES
Gloves with long fingers have proven their worth for mountain bikers. They protect against painful contact with branches and offer good grip on the brake lever. In the event of a fall, abrasions to the hands can be avoided.
4 PEDALS AND SHOES
If you cycle a lot and for long periods with little motor assistance, we recommend clipless pedals and appropriate cycling shoes. If you are not comfortable with this, we recommend stable platform pedals and cycling shoes with a flat, non-slip sole.
5 HELMET AND GOGGLES
Pedelec 25 riders can choose from an almost unlimited selection of cycle helmets. For all those who ride faster, it will be difficult, as there are hardly any special cycle helmets for this young class. Goggles to protect against the wind, splashing stones and branches are highly recommended.