Azo - the Chileans attach it to any word that sounds like a lot of fun or simply bigger. A tequila is therefore called tequilazo for them. But up here, on the edge of the extinct Batea Mahuida volcano, the word takes on a whole new meaning. The landscape in front of us looks like a work of art, painted in red, green and blue, stretching to the horizon.
Today's adventure: Bateazo Freeride
The mountain itself, with its characteristic bathtub shape, does not bear its name by chance either: "Batea Mahuida" means "mountain in the shape of a bathtub" in Mapudungun, the language of the indigenous Mapuche people. Our adventure today? The Bateazo Freeride - a mountain bike trail that promises freeriding in its purest form.
Hence the "azo". Leni, my travelling companion, Victor - our pick-up driver and trail guide with a heart and an impressive 115 kilos of live weight -, Aldo, our Mapuche local and trail guide, Ernesto, Victor's best friend, as well as Maria and Eli, our camera enthusiasts - we are all sitting in a dusty pick-up today, the loading area of which doubles as a bike garage and open-air seating area for Aldo.
Victor picked us up in Icalma this morning. A place that could easily be overlooked if it weren't so extraordinary. Nestled in the Araucanía region, just 135 kilometres west of Temuco, it looks like a hidden gem. The area is wild and almost untouched. Icalma looks like an old western town, forgotten by time, situated on the shores of a crystal-clear lake that bears the same name: Lago Icalma.
Small wooden houses with tiled roofs nestle against the hills, which are overlooked by araucarias, the ancient trees of this region. Viktor manoeuvres the pickup over the steep gravel track as if he were taming a monster. We sit tightly packed, but safely inside, while Aldo has to cling to the railing outside on the loading area to avoid being thrown off.
The front tyres don't always find grip in the sand turns, which stirs up a lot of dust. At some point, the car adopts a horizontal position, engine off, silence. It takes seconds for our own dust cloud to trickle to the ground, but then the view is dazzling: volcanic chains stretch far into the northern and southern horizon, with plenty of sand, forests and deep blue lakes to the west.
The air is cool, the wind blows sharply in your face - and the joy of finally breathing fresh air after the cramped journey and standing on the summit is huge. A post with a white metal sign: on one side it says Chile, on the other Argentina. So we are standing on the thin metal border line.
Ernesto points to the surrounding peaks. Over there, the white peak: the still active Lonquimay volcano. Down there, the blue-green water over which the sun's rays are just flitting: a crater lake. A deep sense of happiness spreads through me as I realise that my biking dream of Chile has just become reality.
For so long I've wanted to experience something I've only seen in YouTube films. And Leni? She shared this dream. When she mentioned it last year, for once, we didn't have a nasty chat. Leni had met two Chilean women at a bike event who had told her about the trails in their home country. So we surprisingly agreed last autumn that we wanted to go on this trip together.
But Chile is long. 4200 kilometres to be precise. So the question was which region we should aim for: Santiago, the capital of Chile, told us something. Atacama, the driest desert in the world, too. We had also heard of Valparaiso, the colourful, hilly port city shaped by artists. All places that have already made a name for themselves in mountain biking circles. Either with daring city downhills, special film locations or as an Enduro World Cup station.
"Visit the Mapuche in the south!"
But we were whispered about the southern part of Chile: Sur Chico. We were told that the "Little South" is one of the most diverse and impressive regions of the country in terms of landscape. There are not only volcanoes, lakes and forests here, but also the special Araucania trees. The heart of the indigenous Mapuche culture also beats here. If you are looking for the truly authentic Chile, this is the place to be. And now we are right in the middle of it. Together in this truly magical place.
No trail - we are free! The entrance to the trail is marked by a small wooden gate, which stands somewhat lost in the mountainside like a door without a house. There is no trail behind it, but the entire width of the slope. Freeride means here: Find your own track in the sand! And I quickly learn that it's better not to take the same track as your daughter who's rushing ahead, otherwise you'll suffocate in her dust trail.
The grains of volcanic sand slide away under my tyres like water. After the first few unsteady metres, I find the flow. Balance is everything. Viktor and Leni are long out of sight, but I also let up on the brakes until I feel like I'm surfing. Yes, surfing is the right word. No predetermined line, pure freedom! Just let go and swing. Until the landscape changes and the occasional tree appears. One here, one there. Soon something like a path can be recognised, in which all the freeride tracks flow together like an hourglass.
The ground becomes firmer, now clearly a trail, and it leads to a viewpoint. Viktor and Leni are waiting for us there. Everyone has a big grin on their face. The view of the surroundings takes our breath away - not just the effort of our first exciting descent. But there's not much time to linger. Viktor leads us onto a narrow, perfectly maintained forest trail.
The bends are made for us, and the mystical atmosphere in the shade of the araucaria trees makes every metre a pleasure. it smells of fresh earth and freedom. Aldo, our local guide, grew up in a Mapuche family. He is studying law in Temuco and plans to specialise in environmental law. His goal: to protect nature and the rights of the Mapuche - in harmony with the sport of mountain biking.
Aldo talks about how he built trails with his friends. On his family's land, which he calls "Wenu-Mapu". This translates as "the land above". For him, trail building is both meditation and a social community. The Mapuche philosophy, which we encounter everywhere here in the southern part of Chile in the Araucaná region, makes a deep impression on us.
For this largest indigenous group in South America, nature is not something that can be owned. Nature is a living being with which they live in harmony. We can feel it everywhere. In the forests that protectively dominate the landscape and in the people who preserve their surroundings with respect and humility. The Mapuches see themselves as part of nature, not as its rulers.
Every tree and every animal must be respected. The araucarias - the gnarled "pehuén" trees - are also considered sacred. They can live up to 2000 years. Their branches reach up to the sky like outstretched arms. Their fruits, the pinones, have always served the Mapuche as survival food in the mountains.
All these values are reflected in the trails: respectfully maintained by hand and free for all who appreciate them. "Land above" or also: heaven. We feel all the more honoured when Aldo wants to show us his favourite trail on his family land Wenu-Mapu the next day. A place where souls find peace, say the Mapuche.
The road there leads through a dense, moss-covered forest. As the trees get closer and closer together, it becomes too narrow for our pick-up. This means that we have to climb the last 400 metres to the summit ourselves. And that also feels good and right.
A gigantic view opens up at the top. The trail that then follows winds its way through the old, sacred araucarias. Fallen trunks are allowed to remain on the path and serve as small jumps. But these trees don't want to be touched. Their leaves are razor-sharp.
"The trails are also part of our culture," explains Aldo as we take a short break in between. "We don't just build them for fun, but also to celebrate the connection between man and nature."
Trails - bridges to nature
It starts to rain, but that doesn't bother us, because now, in spring, the drops are already warm. And they make the reddish-coloured forest floor noticeably more grippy. Which is a good thing, because the path is now becoming increasingly rooty, rocky and technical. As it spits us out in a forest clearing, we hear cowbells! Civilisation is no longer far away. "We are only guests here, nature belongs to itself."
Aldo's words resonate with me. How often do we at home see the trails only as a means to an end - as a consumer good. Here, on the other hand, the trails build bridges between man and nature, past and future.
Back in the village, we sit by the fireplace with mate tea and reflect on the day. Viktor's wife has cooked a big pot of cazuela, a hearty stew - just the thing after this ride. Tomorrow we're travelling on to Pucón, but it's really hard to say goodbye to Icalma. This place and its trails have enchanted us, just like the people who created them.
Info Chile
The precinct
Chile is 4200 kilometres long in total, stretching from the 17th to the 56th parallel. In principle, you can choose the weather and climate for your bike trip. There is definitely no rain in the Atacama Desert in the far north. An almost Mediterranean, snow-free climate blows across the centre of the country and in the far south, the April weather caprices of Patagonia whip at you all year round.
The small western town of Icalma is located in the Sur Chico region, the "Little South", south of Santiago. A relatively humid volcanic region with dense forests and large lakes. It is home to the Mapuche, the largest indigenous group in South America, with their very special philosophy on mountain biking. You can reach Icalma from Europe by flying to Santiago and then onwards by domestic flight to Temuco. From there it is another 135 kilometres to Icalma (hire car or airport shuttle from the tour operator).
Best time to travel
Chile is located in the southern hemisphere - from our point of view, the seasons are reversed. The best time to visit Santiago de Chile and the central regions of the country is in December, January and February, with pleasant temperatures of 25-30 degrees and little rainfall. In the Chilean winter from April to September, there is a lot of snow at higher altitudes.
Book a bike trip
If you prefer to book an organised bike trip to Chile, you've come to the right place: amity-tours.com
The lawnmowers will also be offering a trip to the land of the Mapuche from March 2026. Dates and programme will be available online soon: dierasenmaeher.de/chile
Self-catering travellers will find very helpful tips for their trip here: chile.travel.de
You shouldn't miss these spots in Sur Chico:
- The most rewarding trails in Icalma: icalmalodge.cl
- Pucón: The trail from the Villarrica volcano including hot springs for bathing and the Cedua Bike Park. Info: amity-tours.com
- Huilo Huilo: Private nature park near Neltume with enduro lines, shuttle and bikes for hire. Info: huilohuilo.com
